redding body die adustment

Status
Not open for further replies.

wj kerr

Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
40
Location
united kingdom
Evening all.Im having a problem with adjustment of my redding body die when i screw die in till it contacts the shellholder plus 1/8 turn case shoulder is being bumped back to far. Any less of a turn and die does not size shoulder at all.Shoulder is bumped to far when measured with .222 rem LE wilson case gauge . could somebody explain the proper procedure as regards locknut on die. ie do you turn locknut or die itself to adjust die in press . Thanks wj.
 
Loosen the lock-nut and adjust the die in the press.

When you get it right, tighten the lock-nut and tighten the set-screw so it doen't change again when you take the die out.

That 1/8 turn to take up press slack is not set in stone.
Just adjust the die body to get the case to fit the Wilson guage, then lock it down perminately with the lock nut and tighten the set-screw.

1 full turn = .0715" movement, so 1/8 turn = .009", 1/16 turn = .0450", etc.

rc
 
rcmodel said:
1 full turn = .0715" movement, so 1/8 turn = .0090", 1/16 turn = .0045", etc.

Fixed it for you.


wj kerr, I've been using Redding competition shell holders with Redding body dies. You set the die up to make firm contact with the 0.010" shellholder, then if necessary, you can increase the shoulder setback in 0.002" increments by using the 0.008", 0.006", 0.004" and 0.002" shellholders. I have four rifles chambered in .308 Win including three semi-autos and a bolt action. With the Redding competition shellholders, I don't need to adjust the body die when sizing the cases for the different chambers. I simply use a different shellholder if I need to bump the shoulder back more or less. Another thing to consider is that how you tighten the body die will affect shoulder setback. I install them by hand since it's more consistent than using a wrench. As rcmodel stated, a 1/16 turn is 0.0045". Also, I don't know what sort of consistency you're looking for, but bumping the shoulder back can be frustrating if you're trying to end up with a specific value compared to SAAMI. The best I can manage at present is about +/- 0.001".
 
No 'die contact plus XX turn' makes a precise cartridge, there is too much variation in dies, shell holders, presses and cases themselves for any such "instruction" to do more than get us in the right ball park; individual die tweaking must follow. Using Redding's "competition" shell holders work by taking care of excessive shoulder setback without thought but it's nothing we can't do ourselves with small die adjustments.

We ONLY need to make our ammo fit a 'cartridge gage' IF we want our ammo to fit into any rifle ever made for that cartridge, same as factory ammo does. But, a major part of reloading is we can make our ammo actually fit OUR rifle with some precision. To do that we need to size to make the resized shoulder lengths match the fired case shoulder lengths. Doing that requires that we measure off the case itself, not just dropping them into a steel 'go-no go' case/cartridge gage.

As 1858 says, brass cases are insufficently identical in their springback to size with better than approximately 2-4 thou spread at the shoulder.
 
Last edited:
It's kind of a pain, you have to go real slow until you finally hit the right spot. The right spot is very tiny, and a 1/4 turn either direction will be way, way, off. As the cases are used over and over they work harden and sometimes you will have to adjust the die down further to compensate for the harness/springiness. Something to keep an eye on with cases that have been fired multiple times. It all depends on how well they fit the chamber how many times they can be shot and sized before the die will have to be adjusted down. Annealing will stop that, but can cause another problem. They can become softer in the shoulder than when you first adjusted the die, and you may have to adjust the die up. A couple or three thousandths is not much.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top