Refinishing a Stock

[Aaryq]

Howdy, folks.
I've got a Norinco SKS with an alright blonde(ish) stock. I'm far from a handy man but I don't want to make my stock worse or look like one of Bubba's Tool Shed Specials. I'd just like to get the dings off and clean it up a bit. Can someone break it down "Barney-Style" so I don't screw it up? I really like this rifle and I want to make it nice.

 

[MikeWSC]

Hey Aaryq,

Pull the stocks off. I use 240 grit to lightly sand the finish off the wood and liquid paint remover in the hard to reach spots.
If there are deep dents you can wet down the wood and use a small hobby iron to "pull" the dents up. Let the wood dry, sand with varing grits down to 800. Each grit you go down, make sure you get the last grits marks out.
(lighty damping of the wood will also help pull the grain out)

Wipe down the wood with a tac rag to get all the dust off. Take you pick of stains, I use Minwax. (Just finished a Norinco in Cherry, even had to reshape the thumbhole for a lefthand shooter. I like the darker walnut stain myself.)

Apply the stain with a 1 1/2" stain brush or a lint free cloth. Let dry. Repeat if you'd like it darker. Lightly sand, using 1200 grit, and bumps off the stocks. Wipe it down really well with a tac cloth.

You can put different types of clear on it. I've used spray polyurathane by minwax, they make hi-gloss, semi or satin. Use 0000 steel wool to remove any bumps between coats.

Tru-oil by Birchwood Casey is another great finish, in spray or bottle. With the liquid, use a lint free cloth to apply it on the stock. Use 0000 steelwool between coats. About 4 to 5 coats really looks great. After the last coat, lighty steelwool it again. Use Birchwood Casey Stock Conditioner or a light coat of paste (car) wax. Buff it with a soft cloth.
(make sure coats are dry before using the steelwool, you may have to apply 2 or 3 coats at first, to make sure you have a good hard finish.)

Take your time and it will come out fine.

 

[LJ-MosinFreak-Buck]

I used pretty much the same method, only two types of sand paper (grit numbers escape me now) course-ish and very fine, 000 steel wool, and tung oil.

 

[LiquidTension]

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=240961

I used the method in the thread above to do a Savage 85A. It turned out really nice, especially for my first attempt at refinishing a stock. I'm in the process of doing my SKS stock now.

 

[Bartkowski]

I can't remember the name of the product, but it removes the finish very easily with out sanding.

I apply the gel with 000 steel wool and let it soak in for a minute or so, then continue to rub the gel into the stock. After I have done this to the whole stock I will take some lacquer thinner and wipe off all of the excess stain remover. At this point you can apply the stain of your choice and spray some polyurethane on the stock. You will probably need to apply a few coats of polyurethane, and between coats use 0000 steel wool or 800 grit sand paper.

If you go this route be sure to wear gloves, have lots of newspaper under the stock when you remove and apply the finish, and do it in a well ventilated area.

 

[greyling22]

finish stripper, sand paper, optional stain (test on inside of handguard or someplace first) then tru-oil. it's like a whole new gun. if you want a shiny stock anyway.

and finish stripper is mean stuff. eats through latex gloves.

 

[strat81]

and finish stripper is mean stuff. eats through latex gloves.

Certain types of plastic too. Oh yes, and skin.

I learned the hard way.

 

[BsChoy]

I prefer this way but YMMV, mix a solution of Birchwood-casey Tru oil and low odor mineral spirts (about 50/50 or 40/60 respectively). Sand the wood down and steam your dents as above and then working in small areas apply the mixture by hand. Work it into the wood until the fiction makes your fingers very warm then move to another spot and so on until you have covered the stock. Let it dry for 1 hour and then with 0000 steel wool lightly buff. Apply as many coats as you desire and take your time.Cutting the truoil with MS allows it to creep into the stock and be alot more permament.

 

[CRITGIT]

Consider this:
Strip or sand ........Your call.
Steam the dents out via an iron & rag rather than sand each one.
Sand (400 grit) the whiskers off after thoroughly dry.
If it's walnut or other wood which receives stain well you're good to go.
If it's lighter wood, say birch you'll quickly learn it is reluctant to absorb stain.
Gun manufactures often use a pigmented "blow on" product which simulates a translucent paint.
Once you reconcile the material issue consider using tung oil as your final finish. Tung oil is forgiving, durable and easily touched up in the event of future dings and scratches.
An initial spit coat is a great idea. 3 thinner to 1 tung oil applied everywhere.
Then simply follow the products directions for as many coats as you like or until desired effect is achieved. 3 coats = satin.......... 5 coats = semi........... more = gloss.
It's cheaper than tru oil and will provide an amazing finish.
Here's a walnut beater reincarnated!






Good luck with the project.............and have some fun with it!

CRITGIT

 

[U.S.SFC_RET]

That is one beautiful finish, very nicely done..

 

[CRITGIT]

Thank You, Sir!
Rescuing the old discarded ones is a retirement pastime and passion.

CRITGIT