Refinishing a USGI walnut stock

[CrazyIrishman]

Hey guys,

I recently acquired another stock for my M14s/M1a in walnut. The other stock is a tiger birch GI stock but it was already redone when I got it. I did add a few more coats of TRU-OIL though. Now I'm gonna try a walnut version but from the beginning.

The walnut stock has already been stripped with Easy-Off in order to get the old finish off. I am now left with a stock that is light medium brown which is close to what i'm looking for ,however, the grain that it has isn't real noticeable. I think it will have some nice figure even though its a GI stock and not a highly figured (expensive)piece of wood. I did a Garand stock some time ago and the grain was everywhere!! I didn't have to do anything special to get the grain to show. It was a nice piece of wood.

I plan to use several coats TRU-OIL for the final finish. I have used TRU-OIL in the past with excellent results. What I need to do NOW is to bring out the existing grain before I go any farther. I wet a couple spots with water in order to see what it might look like with a finish on it. It is way too dark and the grain is difficult to make out.

I was thinking about using wood bleach (oxyalic acid) to lighten the wood and hopefully have the grain where I want it.

Any suggestions or ideas are greatly appreciated!!

Thanks

 

[ulflyer]

I don't believe bleaching the wood will bring out the grain. Sounds like you just have a fine grain walnut. Personally, I'd put whatever stain on that you intend to use (i've used "special walnut" on military stocks..has a touch more red than regular walnut stain) and then finish it off with the Tru-oil. I take it you're wanting a gloss finish rather than the flat military look by use of the Tru Oil? I've used plain old linseed oil, thinned a little. Takes a long time to dry tho, unlike Tru oil which drys in a couple of hours.

 

[DnPRK]

Here's a trick used by people who restore military firearms...

If you want a military brown color, dye the stock with Fiebings dark brown dye. After the dye dries, treat the stock with boiled linseed oil. Fiebings dyes can be found at Tandy Leather.

 

[bosshoff]

Personally, I would avoid using any due or stain, and just rub in as much Boiled Linseed Oil as it will absorb. Do this in many applications of thin coats, allowing plenty of time to soak in. I have a Garand that was done with this method, and it is a beaute.

 

[RoyG]

+1 on the BLO. Didn't use over cleaner to strip mine but I did give them a good scrubbing with soap and water. Let them dry and wipped BLO on them. Let them set for a few days and then more. Did this for a week. Now I wipe them down with BLO everytime we get back from shooting them. Every couple of months...

 

[bosshoff]

RoyG

The other thing I forgot to mention is this. Oven cleaner is extremely nasty stuff. If the weapon was mine, I would clean off the oven cleaner with a capful of Murphy's Oil Soap mixed in a bucket of warm water. This is a great mild cleaner, and will not harm anything. Wipe the sucker off, allow to dry, and then apply the BLO. I have used Murphy's and a toothbrush to clean Luger grips with great results.

Did I mention I just became a "Senior Member!"

 

[Clemson]

There has been a very informative article on the subject of refinishing GI stocks published by the Civilian Marksmanship Program (CMP). You have already violated a couple of their guidelines, so it might be good to read it before you go further.

http://www.odcmp.com/Services/Rifles/wood_cleaning_article.htm

Good luck!

Clemson

 

[Frandy]

Thanks!

The CMP information is excellent! Again, thanks.

 

[WayneConrad]

Great Links!

I agree, that's a great link. Thanks!

 

[Sunray]

Easy-Off is not for wood. It's for removing carbon from enameled ovens. Easy-Off burns wood. It's caustic.
Would you use wood bleach or Easy-Off on your dining room table? Wood is wood. Why would you use anything not made for finishing wood on a rifle stock?
Ulflyer, is right. Bleach of any kind is bad. Proper wood finish strippers and patience will. Just remember that not all walnut has super-duper grain. If you think in terms of fine funiture and finish your stock accordingly, you'll end up with a much nicer stock.
Deep six the Tru-oil. Don't ask me why, but it feels like a quick finish that isn't quite the same as a good hand rubbed oil finish. It's being marketed as a fast oil finish for stocks. A proper oil finish isn't fast. A proper oil finish comes from having a feeling for wood. A lust, if you will.

 

[Houndawg]

Grab a wet rag and dampen part of the stock. The wet wood should look darker and the grain should stand out more. This is what it will look like once you apply oil. Deep six the Tru-Oil crap. It's not for military stocks. It's a polymerized oil product that's more like a varnish than an oil finish. These stocks were originally finished with tung oil at the factory and maintained with boiled linseed oil by the soldier (when ordered to. My dad never saw any oil when he was in the Army.) Now that you have that fine piece of wood contaminated with lye, go to Home Depot and get some Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish. If they dont't have it, have them order you some or go to Behr's website, get their number, and order directly from them. Don't get the Formby's or the Minwax. I'm not sure about the Minwax, but the Formby's is nasty varnish crap. The Behr has a mixture of tung oil, BLO, some solvents to make it dry faster, and a little wax. slather it on the wood, wait 15-20 minutes, and wipe it down with a lint free rag. Let it sit overnight. Do it again the next day. A few times doing this and your stock will be pretty. If you get it too shiny, wet a piece of #0000 steel wool with the oil and rub the stock down with it (with the grain) fairly lightly, then immediately wipe it down with a rag. Let it dry for a couple three days.

WARNING: Pure tung oil and pure BLO take a long time to dry. If you use either of those you'll be putting in lots more work and time for the same look. Forget about raw linseed oil. You'll be giving the rifle to your grandkids before that stuff dries.

 

[ulflyer]

Linseed oil drys in several days depending on humidity. I've used it on many military stocks, starting with it thinned with mineral spirits. Also works great on metal objects that you don't want to rust...or rust anymore! Couple of years ago I used it on the metal frame motorcycle trailer that had sat out for 5-6 years and had a good case of rust. After drying for a week, I slopped on some black paint and that thing still shows no rust. Also used it 40 years ago on an old african musket wall hanger. Scrapped off excess rust on/in the barrel, lock, butt plate, and put coat of linseed all over. Never ever rusted anymore. But it does have a strong smell for a good while so it might not be a good choice if you have to work in your house.

 

[Smokey Joe]

+1 for BLO!

Abt. 40 yrs ago I did 2 stocks w/BLO: A cut-down military stock, and a Fajen's commercial job. Both indifferent-grain walnut stocks. Back then I was advised that BLO was slower but Tru-oil was a quickie, cheapie job, and those plus tung oil were THE choices available. Nowadays we have lotsa other choices.

Anyhow,sanded 'em down nicely, applied a coat of BLO with a folded paper towel, then spent the rest of the evening rubbing the stock w/0000 steel wool, every other day or so, for a couple of weeks.

What grain there was in the stocks was brought out nicely, and more to the point (since I don't give a hoot in He** for looks, but fervently desire my guns to be functional) the wood was nicely sealed up.

Still have both stocks, on .30-'06's, they still both work, they are still both sealed up nicely, and they still both look good. One is on my main workhorse deer rifle, and has been used in rain, wet snow, searing heat, and everything else. I've never been the least bit sorry I put in all the time to "do it right."