Refinishing Question

Status
Not open for further replies.

schmeky

Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2006
Messages
2,194
Location
West Monroe, Louisiana
I have a new bead blasting cabinet and need to order some blasting media. I want to do an electroless nickel finish on a frame. What sieve rating glass beads do I need to order?
 
schmeky,

I had sucess with 80 grit glass bead abrasive from Clarke, it was designed to use with their cabinets, I purchased my abrasive and blast cabinet from the local Tractor Supply store. If you have one in your neighborhood you might call,if they have the abrasive in stock it will save you the shipping.

I used mine to do a badly pitted slide on a SIG 226,but I also Dura-Coated the glass bead blasted slide. If you want the roll markings to remain untouched you can cut "masks" from DYMO plastic label tape, it will withstand the blast .
 
All you need for bead-blast masking is plain old black vinyl electrical tape.

Works like a charm, and is easier to trim off around edges then Dymo tape.

rc
 
Buy glassbead media from Harbor Freight. They are MUCH cheaper than anyone else that I've seen. I paid $19.99 for 20lbs(Brownell's wanted $80 plus shipping for the same 20lbs.)
 
Thanks to all for the imput. I want to do the matte on the rounds and brushed on the flats. I understand to make it look "correct", you bead plast the entire frame (or slide), and then use 400 grit wet/dry on the flats.

I have a Tractor Supply down the road, I'll give them a call.
 
What are you working on?

If it's a 1911 slide & frame?
Polish the flats on a glass plate with 400 / 600 black emery paper & oil until you get the desired finish.

Then mask them off with black electrical tape and bead blast whats left.

If you bead blast the whole thing first, it will take a lot more polishing to get the flats polished out again.

rc
 
I use 3 different grades of blast media. The coursest is playsand which I use on Ford model T parts. When that is worn down, I replace it and save worn stuff for sheet metal, when that is almost powdery I save it for matting guns for blueing or parkerizing. No body has ever complained about my matt finish.
I love 2 tone 1911's so I do exactly what you are thinking about. I blast whole frame with very fine grit, mask with wide electrical tape the polish flats with 400 wet or dry and water on plate glass. contrary to belief blasting makes polishing easier for me unless frame is slightly tweaked (often). If it is I block sand with same paper and water. when plated its beautiful.
Then I do polish on sides, blast on top/front/back and blue on slide using 320 wet or dry, That seems to be ideal for nice blue finish, any finer and it's very fragile and easly scratched.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top