reload problems in .45 usp

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ncfabricator

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new to reloading and was hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
using a dillon 550b
Loading 230 gn. rn copper plated tnt (frontier) bullets using 5.3 gn. of unique
with overall length of 1.275
In a colt 1911 this works good but I can not run these through my usp.
after investigating further the copper plated bullet(not the case)has a clearance issue with the rifling.I loaded a 230 gn. rn copper jacketed winchester bullet and it has no issues.
now both rounds are the same except the bullet.???
I guess my question is, do I load winchesters for my HK and spend more money or have I got my overall length messed up?
what overall length is safe for HK?
Thanks for your time !!
 
May not be the issue, but I've found my HK USP to be sensitive to crimp, while my SIG P220 and Colt 1911 are not so much. You may not have a tight enough crimp on your rounds. OAL has never been a problem for me, even with big 230 grainers.
 
Do not crimp the case. .45 ACP's only need the bell removed. And you might seat the bullet back a couple of thousands until it's set back from the rifling (ledes).
 
I made the mistake of loading some 200gr swc at 1.275. Too long! As the others have said , 1.250 seems to be the majic oal:)
 
Thanks !!!

I double checked to make sure it was the bullet touching and it was.
After making a few dummies 1.250 , I seem to be ok now:) !!
there is no data that I can find on plated bullets in the load maps.
I just wanted to thank everyone for the help !

:)
 
I thought running reloads through USP voids your warranty with H&K?
Click to expand...
They only tell you that so if you blow the gun up or damage it from a bad reload they will not assume any responsibility or fix it for free. If anything else breaks prematurely on it thats an obvious manufacturing defect they will have no idea if you where shooting reloads or not.
 
I've always crimped .45 ACP, as well as every other round I reload. I've never seen anything in any credible reloading manual or die instruction sheet to indicate that it is unsafe to crimp any .45 FMJ round, but have seen plenty of recommendations to do so. Can you show me something to the contrary? Thanks.

I also seat my bullets at 1.275, per the manual, and have not had problems with my H&K .45. Of course, I'm not saying this isn't the problem either, just wondering where you get 1.250 from as well.
 
357sig...On both questions...I get my information from 20 years of loading for a Colt 1911. Yes my Colt will shoot 1.275 OAL with no problem, but my best performance is at 1.250. By crimping the .45 ACP case one might deform the bullet or over crimp allowing the cartridge to chamber too deep. You should only remove the bell and that's all. And I really don't care if it's written down somewhere (and it is, but I'm not going to take the time to look it up) or not...:)
 
I've said it before and I'll say it again, 45acp does NOT need a crimp. If you have to crimp (FCD) to get your cartidges to function in your pistol, you did something wrong.

As Bushmaster said, just remove the bell. As far as the original question, I agree that a shorter oal will probably be more effective.

Stinger
 
Fabricator, sounds like you're using the Midway load map. If you are, that's the fly in the ointment. Every round nose they list, is for 1.275. Why, I don't know. To me they should have gone with a minimum oal. 1.275 is too long for many guns.
Bronson7
 
Re- Inch and a quarter?

I landed on 1.250 years ago and with a light taper crimp for BEST reliability IMO.
In leg matches malfs are actually an advantage so some xtra long loads may get ya that reshoot BUT back in the late 70? (geez I'm old!) leather slaps and IPSC came around and any malf cost ya time and sometimes the match.
 
If you're going to become hostile about this, I will make this final post and drop the subject. Arguing on the internet is stupid, IMO, and not worth my time.

A few points:

1. Taper crimping is just that -- a crimp. "Removing the bell", as you so call it, is essentially the first step in taper crimping. 20+ years of reloading experience should tell you that.

2. 230 grain bullets are listed at 1.275" OAL, at least in all of my manuals. It drops as the bullet weight drops. I also understand that this is about maximum for any auto pistol and, realistically, I could drop it a few thousandths of an inch, but have had no problem with this OAL in any of the following pistols:
- Glock 21
- HK USP
- Colt 1991A1
- Colt Gold Cup
- SIG-Sauer P220
- SIG-Sauer P220ST

3. Having absolutely no crimp in an auto round can be dangerous, whether you folks want to acknowledge this or not. OTOH, taper crimping the round will not hurt it any, if done properly. Proper taper crimp should not "smash" the bullet or pull it back into the case at all. I believe you are referring to a roll crimp with this problem, which is one method of crimping a bullet, not the only method. I don't even think it is possible to get a taper crimp deep enough to visually deform a bullet using an FCD or normal crimp/seating die, but I could be wrong.

My final comment is to the originator of this thread:

If you have fixed your problem, that's great! As a matter of information, I will advise you to follow credible instructions when loading ammunition, whether it be a reloading manual, die instruction sheet, or the Dillon 550 manual. What you read on the internet is worth exactly what you paid for it...nothing.

Straying from the written and practiced reloading standards is the first step in making a bad reloading mistake. Think about this next time you see someone post about their reloads blowing up their $600+ handgun.
 
Who is arguing? Who became hostile? If you think it was Bushmaster, I guess you missed the little smiley. Remember, tone is very difficult to ascertain over the www.

I am going to look in my manuals and see if any of them actually list crimping as a part of their instructions. According to Lyman 47th, page 43, "It is not done, however, on semi-automatic pistol cases that headspace on the case mouth." The others are in the garage, and it is too cold out there right now to take a look.

Some (including Lyman) mention that a firm crimp is needed for heavy revolver loads, though. Lee, of course, tells us of all of the wonderful attributes of the FCD, because they are trying to make money.

I do not think that a lack of crimp is dangerous on auto rounds unless the reloader has flared the case too much. First of all, flaring should not be very pronounced. Secondly, the flare should not extend very far into the case. So bullet setback should not be an issue unless the reloader has failed in either of these areas. If the reloader has done his job, the neck tension should be sufficient without a crimp of any kind.

To be honest, I used the FCD on 45acp until I realized I was overexpanding and causing feeding problems. Once I backed off, the FCD was no longer needed. I haven't used a crimp die in 45acp in a long time. I do not load any other auto rounds, however, so YMMV.

I hope I didn't hurt your feelings, none of this was meant as an attack.

Oh, and opinion is NOT fact.

Regards,

Stinger
 
Hmmm...well I apologize. The little smiley didn't show up on my other computer, but I see it now. I'll put my foot in my mouth.

Anyway, in Lyman's 48th manual on page 41 in the 5th paragraph, it says "When loading rimless case ammo for a semi-automatic handgun (such cartridges headspace from the case mouth) never roll crimp your case." A sentence down from that says "For such ammo always use a taper crimp."

In addition, Speer's #13 manual has a section on seating and crimping pistol cartridges on page 438, which states "taper crimping is required for cartridges that headspace on the case mouth." This info is found at the end of the first paragraph to this section.
 
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