Reloading 223 for AR crimp or no crimp?

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blackops

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I see some guys crimp and some don't. What are the pros and cons? Also some guys say you need to crimp bullets like the barnes that have the three circular cut-outs, is that true? I need to get some dies and I noticed Cabelas has a new "AR Crimp" die set. Just wondering before I start reloading for my Spikes. Thanks guys.
 
Some very good information given. It would be my suggestion that if you are using Barnes bullets to give them a call to see what they recommend. They are very nice people with my dealing with them. :)
 
I do crimp, just in case one cartridge feeds from the magazine to the chamber which already has a cartridge in it, so the force doesn't push the bullet down into the casing of the second cartridge trying to be chambered.

I use a firm roll crimp in the uppermost (cannelure) ring on the 62g X-Bullet.
 
I've seen bullet setback with a FTE even with crimped bullets. With an FTE, having to toss a single round because the bullet got pushed into the case would be the least of my concerns.
 
Morning Blackops

Lots of info & lots of opinions both here & on other web sites.

As you say some do & some don’t, it seems either side usually has a valid reason for their reason or choice.

I want though the same thing when I started reloading for my first AR only not nearly as much info available when I started loading .556/.223.

What I did was to see what others at my local range were doing & how it effected their AR’s operation. Seems even way-back-when some were & some weren’t.

So I decided to run a test on my re-loads to see how they were doing with no crimp. I started with no crimp & by shooting one and allowing the next to chamber then manually racking that out then measuring it. Then I moved up to fast firing 5 or 6 then manually removing the next chambered round and measuring it. I’m glad I did as a few came out a bit short. Not short enough to be dangerous but bothersome none the less. It turns out I didn’t have quite enough neck tension on the brass that had been used a few times. No problem with virgin brass or once shot but on neck-hardened used brass I wasn’t getting proper tension to keep from getting an occasional bullet movement.

I ended up with 2 different size de-caping neck sizer setups, one for new brass and one about .0015” smaller for the multi-shot brass.

I have total confidence in my non crimped rounds that I shoot now.
 
Mil ammo is crimped into the cannelure and sealed as well.

The case capacity to bore ratio of the .223 is such that bullet setback isn't going to be dangerous. You've increased the freebore significantly while reducing case volume only a small amount. You also have to consider that most .223 loads have a pretty full case so any bullet pushing into the case has to compress powder.
 
I started crimping when I noticed my 69gr bullets where slipping out from the bolt slamming home. The 55gr bullets seemed to stay put. I did notice OAL vary just a little, so I now crimp them too. Just a light kiss with a Lee Factory Crimp die put and end to all that. And accuracy improved slightly also.
 
Yes, on the Lee factory crimp die got them on all the semi-auto feeds. Oh and there cheap and do a great job.
 
In the book "The AR-15" by Patrick Sweeney, it says you should crimp.
He tested crimped vs non-crimped, and the crimped rounds were more consistent than the non-crimped rounds.
 
For years I have been squadded with the Nation’s best at Camp Perry. I also shot with National Champions, was squadded with one Saturday.

No one, and I mean no one, crimps match bullets. Not for AR’s, not for bolt rifles. Maybe black powder. But I am not loading black powder in my gas guns.

If there was one itsy bitsy teeny weeny accuracy advantage to crimping, everyone would do it.

The military crimps their bullets because some fully automatic mechanisms feed so fast that the bullet could become dislodged during chambering. This is not an issue with any semi auto matic mechanism I own. The military also used tar sealant if you want to go hardcore GI, and don’t forget to crimp the primer pocket.

Today’s match bullets are the best that have ever been. It boggles my mind to think that anyone thinks they can improve the concentricity of a match bullet by swaging it in the middle.

There is spring back to the bullet jackets, but I will bet that crimping permanently deforms the lead core. Why change the center of gravity by crimping?

Crimp for lever action guns fed through the tube, Vulcan type rotary cannons, maybe for elephant guns. Don’t crimp for AR’s. Use neck tension.

6.5 SMK grossly deformed by Lee Factory crimp die.

ReducedLeeCrimped65SMK.jpg

Here are some more problems with crimping. Shoulder collapsing.

I stole these pictures from a post from Walkalong. :evil:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=595815

Too much roll crimp and the shoulder is deformed. This would cause a fail to chamber.

Walkalongpicturecrimpdeformedshoulder1-1.jpg

Walkalongpicturecrimpdeformedshoulder2.jpg
 
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The only cartridges I crimp are for my magnum wheel guns. Those I crimp only because the high pressure loads will dislodge the bullet entirely from the mouth. But I've never had any issues with AL rifles/handguns or large magnum BA's, that required me to crimp it.
Another thing I've noticed is some reloaders are having problems with finished rounds not wanting to chamber or necks and shoulders changing shape after seating because they are trying to effect a crimp on them. Not that a crimp can't be put on a bottle neck cartridge, it can, but it can cause a rather new reloader to suffer with unexplained problems during seating that other wise wouldn't exist. Necks getting buldged, shoulder's collapsing, loose neck tension, and problems feeding are just some of the problems caused by crimping when it's not necessary. Resize it, prime it, charge it, and then set it to recomended OAL and you'll be rid of those constant ghost problems.
 
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