Reloading 40S&W, only twice?

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I was at a local gun shop talking with the owner recently and that person stated that he only reloads 40S&W twice because the case develops a thin spot right above the head that will rupture soon. That perked up my ears. I'm relatively new to reloading and I don't load 40S&W, but I am thinking about reloading it for my son.

Is he correct? He also mentioned that he reloads 40 only for his Dad, who shoots it in a Glock, so is he correct only when reusing brass from guns like Glocks, with unsupported chambers? Is it safe to reload 40S&W brass more times in other guns, such as a Beretta 96, for instance?
 
Glock chambers are not unsupported. 40S&W brass will last as long as 9mm unless you are loading to nuclear power factors. Gun store owners pretend to know things they do not know.
 
I reload 40 for my glocks gen 3 and 4 never had any issues with case bulge I use my brass until they split or lost, I think the glock issue is overstated maybe worse with the older ones.
MOST IMPORTANT is I don't load to max and beyond if he loads super
hot loads pushing the limit then the brass wont last as long
 
Incipient case head separation eh?
I'd go to that owner and tell him he'd better sell all his once fired brass to me for a penny each and thank me for protecting him from himself :p
 
Like the others have already told you, you will probably lose your 40 S&W brass before it fails. I load all semi-auto brass until the necks split or the primer pockets become too loose but again, it's usually lost long before that happens.

Be careful of the gun shop commandos even when they are the owners. (well, did he have a big ol' sack of 40 S&W brass on the counter for sale?)
 
berettaprofessor said:
he only reloads 40S&W twice because the case develops a thin spot right above the head that will rupture soon.

Is he correct?
IMHO, no. If the cases develop a thin spot above the head, something is wrong. Some posted sharp resizing marks that cut into the case base but the cause seemed to have been misalignment of die vs shellplate/tilting of brass that caused the resizing die to cut into the brass. If this is the problem he is experiencing, he should look at his reloading equipment closer instead of reloading just twice as it will definitely weaken the brass case wall. Did he experience any case wall failure/rupture/KaBoom?

He also mentioned that he reloads 40 only for his Dad, who shoots it in a Glock, so is he correct only when reusing brass from guns like Glocks, with unsupported chambers?
That notion may apply to older Gen1/2 Glocks but not so anymore. Over the decades, Glock chambers have gotten tighter and support improved. My Gen3 Glocks (G22/G23/G27) have comparable chamber tightness and case support as M&P40 barrel and actually have tighter chamber than many other factory barrels.

Is it safe to reload 40S&W brass more times in other guns, such as a Beretta 96, for instance?
Like other calibers I reload, I also use mixed range brass with unknown reload history and condition of brass for 40S&W. I reserve verified once-fired brass for max loads but prefer to use mid-to-high range load data for mixed range brass. I particularly pay attention to neck tension/bullet setback by measuring OAL/COL before and after chambering from the magazine. Like 9mm/45ACP, I reload 40S&W until case splits or I cull for recycling.
 
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If he is trying to push the guppy belly in 40 S&W back into shape and use that then what he is doing is probably a good thing. That type of fired brass has been overstressed and I would not personally reload it. All the 40 brass I have been in contact with might have one or two pieces be slightly over-sized but when run through a regular sizing die it measures and looks OK so I reload it. I have seen pictures of badly bulged brass but never any in person at least not yet.:scrutiny: These days brass is so available anything that I would question is into the recycling bucket. Especially if it is 9MM or 40S&W. YMMV It is entirely possible the guy has a valid reason for doing this.
 
From another thread - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=9203579#post9203579

bds said:
TenDriver said:
Reloading for a Glock 27 ... What do I need to know to pass on to him about loading for a Glock?
1. Check neck tension.

Insufficient neck tension will allow bullet setback when the bullet nose bumps the feed ramp and seat the bullet base deeper in the case which will increase chamber pressure. My QC test for checking neck tension is measuring OAL/COL before and after feeding the finished round from the magazine and releasing the slide without riding it. If you can measure significant decrease in cartridge length, you have neck tension issue that must be addressed.


2. If using mixed range brass with unknown reload history, consider not using near max/max load data.

Hot loads shot in generous chambers will over-stretch the brass case wall and may decrease the case wall thickness. Many reloaders will use push-through dies like Redding G-Rx/Lee Bulge Buster and cases fixed with these methods will look like any other fired brass. After several reloadings/over-stretching/fixing cycles, the thinned cases may contribute to case wall failure/KaBoom (especially if bullet setback occurs from insufficient neck tension).

Using mid-to-high range load data with lower pressures will decrease this issue, but some slower burn rate powders will lose accuracy when loaded below high-to-near max load data. For me, W231/HP-38 maintains accuracy with various 155-180 gr jacketed/plated bullets when loaded to mid-to-high range load data and with heavier 180 gr bullets, produce accuracy even at start-to-low load data. Many complain about snappy recoil of 40S&W. Low-to-mid range W231/HP-38 loads will produce milder recoil comparable to 9mm loads.


3. When shooting lead bullets in factory barrels, inspect/clean barrels more often.

Glock barrels have very smooth start of rounded rifling with longer leade that allow lead bullets to slide deeper into the rifling before building chamber pressures. This may allow more high pressure gas to leak around the bullet and deposit more fouling in the rifling, especially near the chamber end. When shooting lead bullets in factory Glock barrels, I usually inspect the barrel at 200-300 rounds and clean the barrel as necessary - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=8530855#post8530855

I use Lone Wolf and KKM 40S&W/9mm conversion barrels in my G22/G23/G27 and they stay cleaner without leading to 500+ rounds and seem to produce greater accuracy than factory barrels with lead bullets.

Doesn't full length sizing negate the need for a bulge buster?
That depends on the brand of dies and barrel you use. Some sizing dies have more rounded radius on the bottom of the sizing die and not resize down as far as others. These resized cases may fully chamber in more generous factory chambers but not in tighter match barrels. I have RCBS and Lee carbide 40S&W dies and Lee carbide sizing die will resize most cases to fully chamber in the tighter Lone Wolf barrels without being push-through resized in the Lee FCD (Bulge Buster). Personally, I do not push-through resize 40S&W cases. If a case won't pass the Lone Wolf chambers after being resized in a Lee sizing die, I will rotate the case 90 degrees and resize a second time. If the case still won't pass the Lone Wolf chambers, I will toss/recycle the case.

Many reloaders with sizing dies that won't resize down as far as Lee dies will often use push-through resizing with Redding G-Rx or Lee FCD. But the original intent of these dies were to push-through resize the case bases once then resize normally thereafter.
 
If I don't lose my brass, I often get 4-6 loads before the mouths begin splitting. But even so, it's not like a firearm is going to KB just because the mouth developes a split at the end of it's life span, which would be determined by mouth splits, loose primer pockets, or poor neck tension, other wise load em and shoot em.

GS
 
...he did not have a big bag of brass to sell. But he sells ammo he reloads...as a manufacturer. I'm thinking I wouldn't want to buy any from him.
 
Ya, I do ndeed load em a bit warm, but never much over published though. Actually, I've found that if I search enough old data I can usually find supportive data, hee, hee:scrutiny:

GS
 
Glock chambers are not unsupported.
Gen2 Glock 40's had poor support.

I have a Gen 3 40SW, and the only Glocked brass I have is from pickups. Gen 3 has very similar support to the majority of 40SW semiautos. There's nothing unusual about a Gen 3 or 4 Glock 40 chamber, regarding the amount of support.

XD 40's appear to have more support than typical, if you are keeping score.
 
GLOOB beat me to it! Newer Glock models in .40S&W aren't any different than other brands. Let's put that old discussion to bed...

As has been stated, be careful what you believe in the LGS, especially when they've got stuff to sell!

Load 'em until you lose them.
 
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