Reloading AR 10

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fobb

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I have reload for a 308 bolt action for years using Sierra 168 HPBT Match bullets in a single shot rifle with excellent results. I am going to load for a AR 10 next using the same bullet but the bullet has no cannelure. Since it will be used in a magazine does this need a crimp and if so how do I go about this?
 
If you have sufficient neck tension it should be ok. Make a dummy round, measure the oal, place it in the magazine and let the bolt slam forward. If the oal didn't change, or didnt change much, you should be fine.
 
I can't speak for others but I load .308 Win for my AR 10 the same way I load for my Bolt Gun and M1A. I rely only on neck tension (bullet hold) which has been more than adequate for me. I also load the Sierra 168 grain Match King as well as a few others. Works for me. :)

Ron
 
All posts here are spot on. Verify neck tension. Make a dummy round, measure it. Load into a mag. Chamber the round at least 5 times. Check OAL.

As brass work gardens neck tension will get lower, so checking this everytime you reload a case is a good idea.
 
I worked up a load for my AR10 when I had one. Used 168 SMK's and IMR4895. That same load shot great in my Milspec and my Ruger GSR. I don't put any type of crimp on them.
 
The only difference between loading for a semi-auto and a bolt action is that you must FL resize every time, watch the case lengths and OAL for a semi.
Match bullets have no cannelure because a crimp is detrimental to accuracy. Not entirely sure it's worth loading match bullets for a regular AR-10 though. Unless it has a match grade barrel. Try the same load you're using now. You might get lucky.
 
We reload for my oldest Son's AR10 without crimp with no neck tension problems I am aware of. The biggest problem is his rifle must have a chamber on the large size and is really hard on brass. Imperial sizing wax helped a bunch with stuck cases in the sizing die.

You can use the bullet seating die to apply what I have always heard is a roll crimp. If you do decide to try this I suggest trimming to a consistent case length for a consistent amount of crimp. If I apply a crimp I like to do this as a separate step but it can also be done when seating the bullet. Without a cannelure on the bullets you mentioned this will deform the bullet where the crimp is applied. I wouldn't want to do this to a match quality bullet but that is your decision.

For some reason I always thought the bullet jumping forward during recoil was a bigger problem than when the bolt slammed against the bolt face. I have measured loaded rounds still in the magazine after firing and seeing if they have lengthened.
 
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