Reloading Bench Build Question

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As long as you can get it sturdy* and level that looks like a good idea. I would mount the butcher block directly to the tops that come on the cabinets as it makes a better working height and a less complicated install of the new top.

* sturdy, to me, means non-moving, stable, you can't shake it or move it around, you should be able to use your scale on the same surface as your press.

Thank you for pointing that out. I went to the store and measured the cabinets. The dimensions listed are incorrect. They are 36" with the tops installed. With the tops installed and the butcher block it'd make it too high for me. With the tops removed and the butcher block top on it I figured it out to be 36.5" high which is a great height for me.
 
Why in the world do guys think x4” butcher block tops are necessary for reloading benches? What are guys pounding together or apart on their reloading benches? I must be doing something wrong for all of these years and literally millions of rounds, because there’s nothing I have ever done on a reloading bench which I felt warranted such a heavy top… I only need sufficient thickness to bed my mounting method (inline fab plates or T tracks), and then underlay structural members to tie the presses to the frame, rather than putting stress on the top. I’m a relatively big guy, but I don’t see any purpose in building benches so heavy, unless a guy just wants to throw money after the aesthetic.

I am looking to build something that looks relatively nice and having the heavier top doesn't hurt anything. I plan on using this and looking at it for at least the next 35 years.
 
Thank you for pointing that out. I went to the store and measured the cabinets. The dimensions listed are incorrect. They are 36" with the tops installed. With the tops installed and the butcher block it'd make it too high for me. With the tops removed and the butcher block top on it I figured it out to be 36.5" high which is a great height for me.
:thumbup:
 
I would think they would be more than enough. My only thing is I would not replace the tops they come with (part of the structural support) Just put your top on top of the existing ones.

When I was at the store I looked closely at this. The tops are only secured to the cabinet through upper frame. The top of the cabinets are open without the tops. I was thinking I would just screw the new butcher block top into the existing holes and make that part of the structure.
 
I plan on using this ... for at least the next 35 years.
since there no leg space. I, myself, prefer to sit.
Then you would definitely will want to have a "sit down" reloading option. (Our spirit may be willing but our aging bodies and aching backs, not so much. :p)

Have you considered separate storage solution and adjustable reloading bench like this one for both stand up/sit down reloading option? - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/reloading-bench-build-question.902456/#:~:text=https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-52-in-Adjustable-Height-Work-Table-HOLT52XDB12/301809830

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I just want to say thank you to everyone that has commented so far. It's been helpful and also had me double check some things. I have not decided which way to go yet, but will update everyone once I have. Can't leave you all hanging lol.
 
Then you would definitely will want to have a "sit down" reloading option. (Our spirit may be willing but our aging bodies and aching backs, not so much. :p)

Have you considered separate storage solution and adjustable reloading bench like this one for both stand up/sit down reloading option? - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/reloading-bench-build-question.902456/#:~:text=https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-52-in-Adjustable-Height-Work-Table-HOLT52XDB12/301809830

View attachment 1063294

I have considered the Husky 8' adjustable reloading bench with separate storage. It's the backup option to this one. The only thing I didn't like about it is the storage options weren't exactly great. Either I can get cabinets that need the legs removed to fit under it, or you I get cabinets that are the ready to assemble kind and would not fit everything I want to fit in it. It's still an option though. I have a FA wet tumbler, FA pin separator, Lyman case dryer, Shell Sorter set, chronograph, and a small shop vac that I want to fit into the cabinet space. Hence the large cabinets. Big box store kitchen/utility cabinets are not an option.
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Husky 8 ft. Adjustable Height Solid Wood Top Workbench in Black for Ready to Assemble Steel Garage Storage System G9600-US1 (homedepot.com)
 
I have considered the Husky 8' adjustable reloading bench with separate storage. It's the backup option to this one.
If you plan on reloading in the garage, consider this.

I used to reload on 6' and 8' benches in the garage but the summer 105F+ heat and freezing winter cold got too old and I started to build castered portable benches so I could reload in the comfort of HVAC anywhere in or outside the house, like in the back patio sipping ice tea with wife (And if you are planning to use digital scale, they only operate around 59F-95F temperature range)

That's why I suggested this castered woodtop toolchest - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-4...-Solid-Wood-Top-in-Red-H42MWC10R-TL/312570922
 
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Have you determined the height you need for your application. I'm assuming you will be setting down while loading. Having the press at the correct ergo height will make it more comfortable on long runs. The butcher block top are nice but like said an over kill, not necessarily needed. What is important is the that the top/bench must be solid if your going to run a AP. This some times require it to be anchored to the wall and/or floor. The cabinets have adj feet which are nice to get every thing level, so anchoring may not be needed.

I plan on standing up to reload as I like that for now. As age sets in that will determine what I'm able to do. Anchoring it to the wall can be done, but not to the floor.
 
I plan on standing up to reload as I like that for now. As age sets in that will determine what I'm able to do. Anchoring it to the wall can be done, but not to the floor.
Benches do not need to be anchored to the wall if you mount presses at the ends to take advantage of weight leverage.
Believe me, that 42" Husky tool chest loaded up with any amount of tools/bullets, bench won't even budge when operating press ram handle.

I have been reloading off 2'x3' rolling bench made out of 2x4s and 11 layer plywood top and even when resizing thick walled military Lake City .308 brass, bench did not even move when empty on hardwood floor. Key was mounting the presses at the ends which also allowed the 2' wide bench to go through any doorway of the house, even from narrow hallways due to short 3' length. I use adjustable height office chair with good back support and comfortable cushion and reloading even 1000 rounds in one session is doable. (BTW, this bench was gifted to a friend who retired to reload with his son and I plan to build something similar to mount Dillon 550C and Lee ABLP)

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If you plan on reloading in the garage, consider this.

I used to reload on 6' and 8' benches in the garage but the summer 105F+ heat and freezing winter cold got too old and I started to build castered portable benches so I could reload in the comfort of HVAC anywhere in or outside the house, like in the back patio sipping ice tea with wife (And if you are planning to use digital scale, they only operate around 59F-95F temperature range)

That's why I suggested the castered woodtop toolchest - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-4...-Solid-Wood-Top-in-Red-H42MWC10R-TL/312570922

Believe me, with that 42" tool chest loaded up with any amount of tools/bullets, that bench won't even budge when operating press ram handle.

I have been reloading off 2'x3' rolling bench made out of 2x4s and 11 layer plywood top and even when resizing thick walled military Lake City .308 brass, bench did not even move when empty on hardwood floor.


I have room in the house that has been dedicated to a "man cave" so I'll be reloading inside. I've done reloading bench with casters thing in the past. I'm not a fan of casters. Not that they moved or anything when the bench was anchored to the wall. I just don't like the look of them. I'm trying to avoid it looking like a shop inside the room and casters scream shop to me. Thanks for your suggestion though.
 
I just want to say thank you to everyone that has commented so far. It's been helpful and also had me double check some things. I have not decided which way to go yet, but will update everyone once I have. Can't leave you all hanging lol.

Remember, it is a reloading bench not a V8 big block engine stand! Some are complete overkill.

Build it how YOU want it to look.:)
 
Butcher block tops are the way to go. Plywood is just too expensive now.
If I were to build another one, I’d just use industrial rack shelving combined with 2 inch BB wood top. You’d have a bench that would support 10,000 lbs. and be adjustable for different heights.

p_1001621283.jpg
 
Butcher block tops are the way to go. Plywood is just too expensive now.
If I were to build another one, I’d just use industrial rack shelving combined with 2 inch BB wood top. You’d have a bench that would support 10,000 lbs. and be adjustable for different heights.

p_1001621283.jpg

Butcher block tops are just neat, especially if you go for some exotic wood.
 
One thing that drastically improves any bench is BOLTING IT TO THE WALL. Doing so makes it incredibly solid, and keeps things on it from bouncing around and moving. If it is not directly on a hard/concrete floor, you may also consider bolting it to the floor. A SOLID setup makes all the difference!

Mine has a 2" butcher block style hardwood surface. I used angle iron and screwed it to the wood and used Tapcons to fasten it to the block wall. HUGE improvement vs. before it was bolted to the wall.
 
Here is the main part of my shop bench setup. The long work bench is attached to the wall. The short 90 degree bench is bolted to the long bench. The Kencraft reloading bench is free standing on concrete which is no problem for it as it is heavy as hell. It cost quite a bit to get freighted in in a big flat box. Some assembly required. I like overhanging edges because I mostly like to clamp things down, except for the vise. The vise is bolted down with wing nuts and has a predrilled position at each end of the bench. That allows me to rearrange equipment on the bench depending on my needs and whims. The work bench top is 36 inches high. The Kencraft bench top is 34.5 inches high. The press is boosted up to 36. I use a stool with pneumatic piston height adjustment.

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I went this route. My wife said "Build a gun room for only your guns and reloading equipment"! The building it's in now is a 16 x 40 (kind of a multi purpose building). Having an all out gun den would be nice!
 

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One thing that drastically improves any bench is BOLTING IT TO THE WALL. Doing so makes it incredibly solid, and keeps things on it from bouncing around and moving. If it is not directly on a hard/concrete floor, you may also consider bolting it to the floor. A SOLID setup makes all the difference!

Mine has a 2" butcher block style hardwood surface. I used angle iron and screwed it to the wood and used Tapcons to fasten it to the block wall. HUGE improvement vs. before it was bolted to the wall.
 
I agree totally!

My 12’ bench on the wall’s foundation is 2x6s screwed directly to the block wall every 3’, top and bottom.

The island I started yesterday has 8 L brackets screwed directly into the floor. Without sides and a top on it, it’s already sturdy.

The top is gonna be 3/4” OSB screwed down into this frame. The 1.5” butcher block screwed in from the bottom so no screws show. I’ll add adhesive between the butcher block and OSB.

It would be nice if I could move the island but I opted for sturdy over mobile.

If it was necessary to move, I can remove the plywood floor and unscrew the L brackets outta the concrete.
 

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