Reloading brass that has been shot from Glock's?

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Chris Miller

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Are there current issues with the brass that comes out of a glock pistol? I have a new glock 20 10mm and I REALLY need to reload this brass because of the cost of decent loads.

Are there any issues with brass that comes out of these guns? The information online is contradictory at best.

Thanks all!
 
What exactly would be wrong with it?

If the case isn't dented up beyond repair, or cracked and it'll go into the sizing die load 'em.
 
Expansion... a lot of people claim that the throat of the barrel is larger than normal to provide easier feeding and that it results in an expanded case.
 
Congrats on the purchase of your G20, your going to love it. Reloading for it is going to give you a lot of options as well as save a lot of $$.

All my 10mm brass has been shot in my Glock. And for that matter, all but the first 20 rounds I got when I bought it have been handloads.

Past experience has shown just resizing normally does not size the base completely, nor does a FCD, therefore I usually had some rounds that would not pass a case gauge.

I now use a Redding GRx push through die for all my fired 10mm brass. It takes a little time, but they will ALWAYS pass the case gauge.

Lee has a similar product called - "Bulge Buster" http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=502850 that is less expensive than the Redding GRx.
Maybe someone here can chime in with experience using one?
 
Try using your barrel as a case gauge. If the cases fit the barrel and are reloaded correctly as in overall length and not oversize bullets there is no reason they will not work as in feed and eject properly.
 
My brother has a G22, I have a Sigma 40VE and our dad has a Hi Point, all .40s.
We never keep up with who shot what brass. It all goes into the same bucket. We've never had a single issue with anything.

Welcome to THR. I'm jealous of that G20. I've been wanting the G20 SF for a while now.
 
Problem (if any) is the .40 brass from early Glocks. IMHO, .40 is a throwaway anyhow. The purists will scream, but I have no use for that cartridge.
 
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I resurrected this thread because I recently tried to resize some once-fired 10mm brass used in my G20, and the base was bulged so bad that it deformed the entire lower half of the case when I full-length sized it. I may try running them through the Lee Bulge Buster kit before I try to resize.
 
I shoot a Beretta and buy once fired brass for reloading. The Glock brass is distinctive and easy to spot. I have never had any issues sizing on a standard Lee die and chambering in my gun. The issues I do have are primer pockets from various brands.
 
I shoot a Beretta and buy once fired brass for reloading. The Glock brass is distinctive and easy to spot. I have never had any issues sizing on a standard Lee die and chambering in my gun. The issues I do have are primer pockets from various brands.
What makes it distinctive and easy to spot? Besides the mark on the primmer.
 
Intresting I don't get that from my Glock. The brass that I have shot looks no different then the once fired stuff I have bought.
 
What makes it distinctive and easy to spot? Besides the mark on the primmer.
That's it, just the primer mark. I guess the point is, I don't notice anything different about Glock brass except the primer mark.
 
Only the first generation glocks "Glocked " the brass.
There were even special " de-glocking " dies for it.
The earlier glocks had the feed ramp cut into the chamber area causing
the unsupported chamber. Also this lead to a lot of KBs with hot loads and weak brass.

80% or better of the Glock brass nowdays does not have the "Glocked : signature on it.
If it looks good , load it and go have fun.
 
You can get a barrel that supports the case head better IMHO. My G20 is only 6 months old and the case head support is definitely less than the KKM barrel (~3/8") I replaced it with. However, the stock Glock 357Sig barrel has better support than the KKM, all the way to the extractor groove. They've improved over time.

A buddy's G20, about 6 years older IIRC is much worse and he had issues with case head failures. Brass was shot out of a 10mm MP-5, which wasn't good, and failed with a load far less than max. Posted pics on here when it happened, complete case head failures. He switched to a Bar-Sto barrel, problem went away.

Size your brass all the way, inspect the base, does it chamber or gage? If so, you are probably good. If not, consider your options and decide what you want to do.
 
There are guns besides Glocks that glock brass too. I got some 357 SIG brass fired in one of the models of SIG Pistols, that brass had glock smiles on it too. All the brass came from a police dept and all of it was fired in the SIG guns. I had to run it thorugh a G-Rx die to remove the smile.

Jimmy K
 
If you have older Glock barrels with less case head support at the ramp area and/or have new Glocks with any concerns regarding chamber support due to loose chamber that causes case bulges 2/3 way down the case, you can always use the Lone Wolf replacement barrel with tighter chamber support.

I use LW 40S&W replacement and 9mm conversion barrels in my Gen3 Glock 22/27 and do not get bulged/smiley cases even with near max/max load data rounds because of the tighter chamber and better case base support.

If you are concerned about reloading cost/availability of brass, you can consider using the LW 10mm to 40S&W conversion barrel which uses the stock G20 magazine. The LW barrels are match grade stainless steel, come with life-time warranty, polished rifling which makes them easy to clean and because LW barrels have standard land/groove rifling, you can even shoot lead reloads.
 
I bought a Gen II G17 and have only fed it my reloads over all these years - loaded on a single stage press or progressive - no issues with any of it. Same goes for my G26
 
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