Reloading for 9mm, should I get a heavier recoil spring?

[TargetTerror]

I tried posting this in the semi-auto forum, but maybe I'll get more luck posting here.

The factory recoil spring in my P89 is getting old, and I'd like to get a new Wolf Recoil Spring for it. While I'm ordering, I'd also like to get a heavier recoil spring. I am starting to reload for this gun, and would like to be able to load some hotter rounds.

My question is, which of the springs is best for a hot loaded 9mm round? Wolf offers springs for the P series for both the 9mm and 45 auto. Standard factory rate is 11 lbs, and wolf also offers 12, 13, 14, and 16 lb springs. I feel like the 16 pound and probably the 14 lb would be overkill for the 9mm, but am unsure about the 12 and 13 pounders for a hotter round.

Anyone have any experience or advice?

 

[Rod B]

I'm not familiar with the Ruger 9mm, however a 14lb spring works very well on my CZ85C 9mm.

 

[Steve C]

Its been my experience that changing the springs with a factory equivalent weight is the only way to go if you want your pistol to be reliable. Stick to published data on your reloads, work them up, don't just assemble a bunch of various components and pick a maximum load because you're asking for trouble. When the chamber peals back from an over load or case separation it doesn't matter what spring you are using. If you want +P+ then buy new police surplus. The cases on new ammo hasn't been weakened by working through the reloading process (perhaps several times).

 

[Walkalong]

Go with the factory weight spring unless you are going to shoot real hot loads all the time.(and why?) Change it regularly.

 

[TargetTerror]

Thanks guys, sounds like factory spring is the way to go!

 

[cheygriz]

I load all of my 9MM to +P, or +P+ and I have changed out the recoil springs in my Glock, SIGs and Beretta to heavier than factory standard by 4 pounds.

Bear in mind though, that with heavier springs, the gun will not be reliable with light loads.

 

[TargetTerror]

Cheygriz, how do you find the reliability using the heavier loads with the factory spring? Did you change primarily to reduce wear and tear on the guns?

 

[HSMITH]

There is no free lunch, you lessen the impact on the frame with a heavier spring for sure, but you batter the barrel, slide and slide stop if applicable harder when the slide closes.

I run springs several pounds lighter than standard in most guns, in Glocks I run stock standard springs due to the way they operate.

Lighter springs make the guns faster and flatter shooting, at the penalty of being harder on the gun when the slide impacts the frame. The difference isn't big, but there IS a difference.

Stick with factory springs, they will accomodate a WIDE variety of ammo and give the gun a good long life. When you can run the gun at speed well then start looking for an advantage.

 

[TargetTerror]

Lighter springs make the guns faster and flatter shooting

How so? I've never heard of that before.

 

[CZ57]

Terror: something worth doing with a new pistol, or when buying a replacement recoil spring is to measure the length of the new spring. Then you can monitor the wear on a spring by its length. If the spring in your P89 is getting old, then you have a length reference for the next one.

At one time, Ruger issued a statement with 9mm pistols stating that they are rated for +P and +P+ conforming to industry standards. Possibly a bit vague for +P+, but that description is a little vague in and of itself. Typically used by ammomakers to describe very high velocity loads, even though pressure is not above the SAAMI max. pressure of +P at 38,500 PSI. At one time it was reserved for the use of ammo sold only to LE agencies. Truth is, the hottest safe handload data you're going to find is in older manuals like the SPEER #11 that predates SAAMI lowering the pressure spec of 9 X 19mm from 35,700 CUP to 35,000 PSI/33,000 CUP. Two different methods of pressure testing, but the +P limit of 38,500 PSI is nearly identical to the older standard of 35,700 CUP. Usually you see a statement that there is no correlation to the two different pressure testing methods. That is true as far as a direct mathematical conversion, but they can be correlated geometrically/graphically, but that's another story.

Heavier springs are typically used to prevent battering of the frame, but just as the physics books state: For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. The opposite reaction with heavier springs is that the slide will be accelerated while it's returning to battery. Slamming the back side of the slide stop instead of the front side.

One thing to consider may be the variable power springs by Wolff. Maybe 12# with the variable power. Designed to absorb additional recoil with loads of varying pressure/slide acceleration. By all means get a multi spring kit and try several weights if you don't try the variable power. Some people will tell you that they want to see ejection of cases no more than 3' from the gun, but I think they were getting confused with some pretty light paper punching loads, i.e. wadcutters in 1911s. In any case, you'll probably find that a Wolff spring 2 pounds heavier than the factory spring will work fine for +P. If you get into +P with 147 gr. bullets, the 14# would probably be a good idea. Rugers are not fragile in any case.

 

[TheFrenchCanadian]

For the record, I'm running springs heavier by 2 lbs in both my Browning Hi-Power (18.5lb vs. 16.5lb) and my CZ-75 Pre-B (14lb vs 12lb). Both fuction extremely reliably with all ammo, except with extremely light loads ( for example 3 grains of Bullseye behind 136 grain lead bullets gave me trouble).

That being said, many of the points above are valid though, and I may consider using factory weight springs again when I replace them the next time...

TFC

 

[Walkalong]

Get some ISMI springs.