Reloading for an AR Help

[DDawg]

Hello,
Im very new to reloading, just lucked into a great deal on a reloading settup. I've already aquired several books, & plan on doing some serious reading before starting to reload, but ive come accross some questions regarding .223.
I plan on relaoding for my Ruger #1 single shot and my AR.
What im asking about is crimping. What is different about reloading for my AR vs the #1? What is crimping/uncrimping for .223?
My setup came with .223 seating & sizing dies, along with some brass, some of the brass has unfired primers in.

Thanks
DD

 

[rcmodel]

There are two different "crimps" you may read about on the .223.

The first is crimping the bullet in place in the case after it is seated to the proper length.
That is never necessary for a S/S rifle, and seldom necessary for an AR if the gun and magazines feed right.
Proper case neck tension from the sizing operation is what actually holds the bullet in place.

Your seating die is capable of doing the crimp if you decide to do it, but all the cases must be trimmed to the same length beforehand.
If you don't want to trim them all the time, buy a Lee FCD collet-crimp die, as it is run off the shell holder and is not case length dependent.

The other "crimp" is, GI cases have the primer crimped in the case so they don't fall out during M16 full-auto or machinegun firing.

In order to reload them, you have to deprime them, then remove the primer crimp by reaming or swaging the primer pocket before a new primer can be seated in the case.

rc

 

[SilentVectorX]

nvm

 

[RVenick]

I agree with RC. The neck tension is plenty. It takes about 10 hits with my bullet puller to get a bullet out.

 

[HJ857]

My thoughts/opinions on this are AR specific only. If you're shooting bullseye or some other discipline that requires match grade accuracy, then crimp or not based on your testing. On the other hand, if you're making good, but not match grade ammo, then a crimp is always a good idea for an AR or other mag fed semi auto.

Using a Lee Factory Crimp Die takes an extra one second to do, but is another level of insurance that the round will not disassemble itself under even mild recoil. The same kind of insurance you get when you measure powder charges, or good primer seating, or discarding brass with a too loose primer pocket. It's not going to hurt anything to use it.

For my "normal" loads I use 55 grain bullets with a cannelure. However I seat the bullets as long as possible while still fitting into a PMag. So I'm seating well below the cannelure and use the FCD set light. In my testing cannelured bullets shoot slightly better than the same bullet that do not have a cannelure - in my rifle.

I have had bullets set back after being foolishly swayed by "crimp not needed in an AR" opinions. Bullets vary in diameter, neck sizing can also vary resulting in some bullets seating tight and some seating loose, something like the FCD makes them all pretty much the same. Like I said, just my opinion.

 

[rfwobbly]

Mr Dawg -
Welcome to THR and reloading!

You'll want to be aware that 223 for bolt action differs from 223 for the AR in the the AR demands more power in order to operate the action. Some reloading manuals actually divide 223 into 2 sections to distinguish this. The Sierra manual comes to mind, but there are others as well.

The top 2 illustrations show you what RC was talking about, as far as crimped primers.


All the best.

 

[steve4102]

Here is a good article on handloading for service rifles. Pay special attention on the "Neck Tension" section. Notice that even factory ammo creeps forward in a service rifle.

http://www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/gasgunreload.cfm

 

[jeeptim]

What they said!!

 

[gregj]

I just started rolling my own 223 for my AR. Here's a link to a great article that has helped me. I'm starting out using H335 and 55gr bullets. Later I will be experimenting with different bullet weights.

http://www.6mmbr.com/223Rem.html

 

[DDawg]

Thanks for the tips! I just ordered the Lee Factory Crimp die.

DD