Reloading our hoglegs......

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Bigdog57

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Having gotten back into shooting my cap&balls in a big way, it's rather a PITA to sit at the bench reloading each gun, to shoot them again. So, I have begun investing in a few spare cylinders. Have two .44s for my Pietta 1851 Navies and 1860 Army - same cylinder fits both types. Got two .36 cylinders for my Pietta 1851 Navy Sheriff Model. All four cylinders fit perfectly, as they are made by Pietta. Should save me some time and effort, as I load them all before leaving home - except NO caps til I get to the range bench. Picked up a couple leather cylinder pouches made by Triple-K too, for my belt/holster rig.
Anyone else doing this, even if you aren't into Cowboy Action Shooting or other comps?
 
Good morning,
I've got two spare percussion cylinders + a .45 conversion for the Walker. Those go a long way toward providing extended Boom! The LeMat is a 10 shot funhouse as it is. My 1860 Army is an orphan make so I don't know where or if I will ever find another cylinder for it.
regards,
 
I do want spare cylinders for my Remington NMA and ROA, but haven't made it a priority.

Taking a few friends out to the range showed several lost a bit of interest once reloading was needed. I made paper cartridges which sped things up.
 
I don't know how you guys do it. Cleaning one cylinder with the 6 nipples is enough for me. But if you're in competition then I can see your point in having additional cylinders.
 
I don't know how you guys do it. Cleaning one cylinder with the 6 nipples is enough for me.
Click to expand...

How long does it take you to clean yours?


Nipples? You mean those things that some people removed from the rear of the cylinder?

I'll have to check and see if mine still come out. I dont recall when they came out last. Dont think I've ever taken them out for a regular cleaning. Should probably put a touch of grease on them for the next few years.

ETA: just checked my two guns. I dont recall if/when I've taken the nipples out. One nipple was a little tighter than the others in one gun. All the rest were gently torqued and came loose without much effort. I turned them out about a turn, them put them back. No reason to take them out at this point. I may in fact put a touch of grease on the threads, but it hasnt been an issue so far.
 
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The cylinder with the nipples is the major part of my cleaning. The barrel and frame are a breeze but I do spend some time on the cylinder and nipples. The nipples come out every time I shoot. Cleaned with a pipe cleaner and some hot soapy water then the threads slightly greased and screwed back in. I only gut the frame once or twice a year.
 
You may be doing more work than you really have to.

I think my entire cleaning routine is 5-10 minutes.
 
A fellow on another forum boils his cylinders and leaves the nipples in place. He claims there is no need to remove them, that he has been doing it this way for years with no issues. He sold a Remington carbine and the receiver broke to wrenches due to 5 rusted nipples.

Like the frame of the gun it may not be necessary to remove them each time, but it may be a good idea periodically. I remove mine each time...
 
My cylinder is all one piece, nipples included.
After one failed try to remove them, they can stay there until there's a good reason to take them out for replacement.
 
I'm only removing the nipples when I strip down the frames for internal cleaning now. Which occurs about every 130 to 150 shots fired. By that time the amount of fouling inside is becoming rather noticeable in the way the hammer moves.

I've not had the slightest issue with removing the nipples at these times. I've been greasing the threads with Mobil 1 synthetic grease which appears from my results to be compatible as it's not gumming up or becoming tar like in any manner.
 
I'm only removing the nipples when I strip down the frames for internal cleaning now.
Click to expand...

Thats probably a reasonable middle ground.

Like somebody said above though, if I had any that wouldnt come out with reasonable effort, I wouldnt worry about it until I had to replace them. Its making work where none is really needed at that point.
 
By then it may be too late. That's the last place I would want any pitting.

The cylinder I mentioned, which was supposedly fairly new, is useless now.
 
I had to inquire about the actual nature of it. I know he broke 2 wrenches and bent another removing 5 of the nipples, and the 6th is still stuck. The impression I have is that it is more than just a little surface rust, but I do not know that.

He is not using it though.
 
By then it may be too late. That's the last place I would want any pitting.
Click to expand...

I agree. It takes extra time to remove the nipples each time I agree but, no matter, she's my one and only so she gets some extra lovin. ;)

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She's due for some elk grips here shortly to get rid of that lousy job I did refinishing the grips.
 
I have been reading this thread (and others previously) about hard-to-remove nipples.

IIRC, I am amazed that no one has mentioned using a copper-based anti-sieze paste. This is just an example, but all plumbing supply places carry it. In my previous life I was an HVAC mechanic and this stuff is worth its weight in gold when repeatedly removing threaded parts for maintenance.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...gle-PLA+-+Test&CS_003=7867724&CS_010=01461839
 
Never even thought about anti-seize for nipples. Learn something new every day.
 
I use Never Seez on all my nipples, it works fantastic to keep them free. I would say at least half the used revolvers I have acquired throughout the years have given me some significant trouble with at least a couple of their nipples due to poor maintenance on the previous owners part. I use a socket and ratchet "custom" nipple wrench with a Quick Clamp holding it tightly in place on the cylinder to bust free the really tough ones.

One the Never Seez is applied they stay free.
 
The fellow with the cylinder will not use it but wants to stamp it "Do Not Use" so as nobody accidentally uses it. I've asked for pics of the chambers and nipples.
 
I don't believe he did, but I'm not certain what he did. I get the impression he forced them out with nipple wrenches. I'll ask what he did to remove the ones he did.
 
expat_alaska said:
I have been reading this thread (and others previously) about hard-to-remove nipples.

IIRC, I am amazed that no one has mentioned using a copper-based anti-sieze paste. This is just an example, but all plumbing supply places carry it. In my previous life I was an HVAC mechanic and this stuff is worth its weight in gold when repeatedly removing threaded parts for maintenance.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...gle-PLA+-+Test&CS_003=7867724&CS_010=01461839
Click to expand...
This is a great idea ill try it next time i get a new cyl but for me i dont even try to remove nipples i think it does more harm than good i keep my cyls loaded with lube over and this seems to have prevented any rust problems.
 
I use either Gorilla Grease or CVA ANTI-SEIZE STICK, designed for high temp with: Breech Plugs, Choke Tubes or Nipples.
 
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