Reloading rookie

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I have found the lee c press new for 43 bucks. And I just picked up the abcs of reloading and was lent hornadys handbook from my buddy. And was planning on grabbing lymans manual as well. Been reading a little bit and Havnt come across the answer yet so I’ll ask you guys…. Why are the jacketed bullets a smaller diameter than lead bullets? (.38 special jacketed is .357 dia. , while the lead bullets are .358 dia).
 
I have found the lee c press new for 43 bucks. And I just picked up the abcs of reloading and was lent hornadys handbook from my buddy. And was planning on grabbing lymans manual as well. Been reading a little bit and Havnt come across the answer yet so I’ll ask you guys…. Why are the jacketed bullets a smaller diameter than lead bullets? (.38 special jacketed is .357 dia. , while the lead bullets are .358 dia).
Cast swages to fit the bore and prevent gas cutting.
 
Jacketed or plated is made to fit the barrel as there isn’t enough pressure to obturate the base of the bullet like would happen with lead. At the moment of firing, the massive pressure build up swells the base of the lead bullet to fit the barrel tightly so no gas(pressure) can escape, thus using all the energy to propel the bullet out of the gun. That’s why with low pressure rounds you will see discoloring on the brass from the escaping gas blowing by it before extraction. The base of the bullet didn’t obturate(swell up) and some of the gas escaped. Lead bullets will usually be .002” bigger in diameter than jacketed for this reason.

Some things just aren’t explained very well in some manuals, that’s why everyone recommends multiple books to reference. It’s not just the load data that differs, it’s also the explanation of the process in the front of the book. Hope this helps.
 
I was just about to order the Lyman reloader handbook and came across their reloading handbook for pistols and revolvers. Would I be gaining anything with the pistol and revolver handbook over the regular handbook (more specific information for pistol reloads)? Or should I just get the latest that has everything?
 

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I was just about to order the Lyman reloader handbook and came across their reloading handbook for pistols and revolvers. Would I be gaining anything with the pistol and revolver handbook over the regular handbook (more specific information for pistol reloads)? Or should I just get the latest that has everything?
Get it. I did and it comes in real handy. Get the 50th edition, too. And the 46th. It has pressure tested data fired through real guns not just universal receivers.
 
(Probably a lot of this has already been said,)

I think there is value in starting at the bottom and working your way up in learning. I would NOT recommend that rookies start with an all-out progressive setup. I think everyone should learn the processes and quirks of each part of the process separately so that they have a knowledge of where to look when you have problems.

I never tried the hammer press thing. I am vaguely aware of it. I suppose it works, it's been around a while. But I can't see myself doing say, ladder tests for precision rifle rounds with it. I guess it is something that might be good to keep around for a survival situation, but if you know how to use it correctly, you probably have already upgraded to something more practical. For mobility, I could easily use my hand-press kit.

I inherited a single-stage press my dad never got around to learning. Probably someone in here suggested to me getting a Lee hand press for some of the processes that don't require a lot of precision. So I got one, it was like $32, and I probably sized/decapped a bajillion pistol cases with it. I still have my juvenile range slaves do that too. I figured, I can use down time to get easy repetitive processes done. Later I got a Lee Auto-Lock Breech progressive setup. It works, but it has its quirks. Most of the resistance in the up and down strokes comes from the sizing/decapping stage. So, I still have my boys do it separately on the hand press. (I know, you get what you pay for, I will eventually upgrade. But it's still good learning.)

Another thing the hand press is good for, is I can keep a mobile handloading kit, and do load quirks at the range on the spot. I can bring prepped cases, a powder measure and scale, and seat bullets one or five at a time, and see the results. Something I would NOT use it for, is sizing large rifle cases. Technically I suppose it CAN do it, but......try sizing a hundred 30-06 cases with it, and decide if you wouldn't rather use something bigger. :)
 
(Probably a lot of this has already been said,)

I think there is value in starting at the bottom and working your way up in learning. I would NOT recommend that rookies start with an all-out progressive setup. I think everyone should learn the processes and quirks of each part of the process separately so that they have a knowledge of where to look when you have problems.

I never tried the hammer press thing. I am vaguely aware of it. I suppose it works, it's been around a while. But I can't see myself doing say, ladder tests for precision rifle rounds with it. I guess it is something that might be good to keep around for a survival situation, but if you know how to use it correctly, you probably have already upgraded to something more practical. For mobility, I could easily use my hand-press kit.

I inherited a single-stage press my dad never got around to learning. Probably someone in here suggested to me getting a Lee hand press for some of the processes that don't require a lot of precision. So I got one, it was like $32, and I probably sized/decapped a bajillion pistol cases with it. I still have my juvenile range slaves do that too. I figured, I can use down time to get easy repetitive processes done. Later I got a Lee Auto-Lock Breech progressive setup. It works, but it has its quirks. Most of the resistance in the up and down strokes comes from the sizing/decapping stage. So, I still have my boys do it separately on the hand press. (I know, you get what you pay for, I will eventually upgrade. But it's still good learning.)

Another thing the hand press is good for, is I can keep a mobile handloading kit, and do load quirks at the range on the spot. I can bring prepped cases, a powder measure and scale, and seat bullets one or five at a time, and see the results. Something I would NOT use it for, is sizing large rifle cases. Technically I suppose it CAN do it, but......try sizing a hundred 30-06 cases with it, and decide if you wouldn't rather use something bigger. :)
Awesome thank you! Never thought about trying it out like that on the range for instant results and configuring!
 
For range use I like the Lee Reloader press bolted to a 2x6 and clamped to the bench and a small digital scale to weigh powder on. Quick, cheap, and simple. The hand press would work as well, I’m sure. I prep my brass in stages on mine and store it primed so when it’s time to load it, all I have to do is dump powder and seat bullets.
 
Well I do own both as well. No progressives on my bench either. I like to take a slow easy trip to reload land to decompress when I need to.
Yup. And that little hand press is just the thing for sitting in the recliner depriming/resizing a few pistol rounds. And the ram prime is about the best seating setup around. Yes, it's slow but life's just too short to be in a hurry. :)
 
Yup. And that little hand press is just the thing for sitting in the recliner depriming/resizing a few pistol rounds. And the ram prime is about the best seating setup around. Yes, it's slow but life's just too short to be in a hurry. :)
I understand what you're saying, but loading on a progressive is not about being in a hurry for me. I shoot a lot rounds every month, which I likely would not do if I didn't have progressive loaders.
 
I bought the Lee Hand press for 38sp/357mag with Lee dies. I’m happy with it. I decided to load some 30-06 and didn’t think I’d like using the hand press for resizing 30-06, so I bought a Lyman Brass Smith Ideal press off Amazon for about $85.
Its about the same price on Midway, but I had quite a few points on Amazon. It’s cast iron and rock solid, but about $35 more than the Lee Breech Lock Reloader Single Stage Press, which is cast aluminum. I thought the Lyman would be stronger, but I honestly can’t say because I have no experience with the Lee.

I mounted the Lyman on a chunk of 2 X12 with 3/8” bolts and put some 3/8” bolts through the 2 X 12 with wing nuts to mount it to an old B&D Workmate. I was concerned that if I really leaned on the handle the Workmate would tip, but it doesn’t. It can be assembled/disassembled in a matter of minutes and the press fits in a relatively small plastic bin. You could do the same with the Lee press.
 
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Just want to thank everyone for your help and knowledge! This is what I’ve gathered so far. Went with the C press and a few of the books you guys mentioned. A few more things to gather on the list. And I’m sure I’ll have more questions. Thank you all!
 

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