Reloading scales?

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Rugerspyderon

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What scales are you folks using? My smart reloading SR750 is haunted and numbers are bouncing around, sucks. I want to do shotshell stuff as well as my pistol reloading. I just went down to start reloading again, as I went to gun show and landed thousands of Winchester and CCI pistol primers and my favorite HP 38/Win 231 powder. The thing went crazy. I want a reliable and accurate scale that does not cost a lot of money. I can handle up to maybe $75.

Thanks
 
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I have a used RCBS beam scale I picked up and got a Hornady GS-1200 electronic I use mostly. I periodically check it against the RCBS but has been dead on now for almost 2 years.
 
My RCBS 5-10 beam scale has been dead accurate for going on 45 years now.
It just isn't as fast as my electronic scale.

But my electronic scale gets goofy every once and a while, and the old RCBS comes out to find out just how goofy it got.

rc
 
I have a few. Lee beam scale, and a Hornady LNL. I also have the Horn Automatic powder trickler and it has the same scale built in. Very accurate and works well.
 
I have an RCBS 5-10 that it is at least 35 yrs. old, and still spot on. I also have an electronic one, but I only used it for a short while because it just doesn't seem to hold zero. If your going to use an electronic scale, then I suggest you also buy a beam scale to verify with, which is like skinning a fish twice, in my opinion.

GS
 
Dillon terminator ekectronic for me. Beam scales just are not fast enough or compatible with my touch.

It's $140, so not really in your price range. My unit is probably 7-9 years old now.
 
Beam type if that's what your after. Dillon and RCBS makes great ones. If you go digital, I love my PACT.. Accurate. Spot on.
 
Dillon and RCBS beam scale. Dillon is very good, but you need to play its game. Always approach weight from below, watch drafts and don't move fast around it. RCBS Beam scales are still <100$, and they are reliable.
 
I have a Lyman 500 , an old brown Redding (oil damp ,slow) the little red Lee, and an old Pacific M, for beem scales , and a Lyman 1200dps
I like the Lyman 1200 dps the best but last I looked one would run you about $275.00 out of my 4 beem scales I like my Pacific the best,

there is a Hornady (it's twin) on E-bay right now with 3 days left on it
 
Dillon and RCBS beam scale. Dillon is very good, but you need to play its game. Always approach weight from below, watch drafts and don't move fast around it. RCBS Beam scales are still <100$, and they are reliable.
a RCBS 5-0-5 just sold on E-bay for $54.00 with a powder trickler and there is a brand new one with $56.00 on it right now , 14hrs left
 
I have the same smart reloader scale and the same problem with it. What a piece of junk eh? Glad you asked this question as I'm trying to figure out what scale I want to buy to replace this thing.
 
I have been reloading for a year and now I learn I have been using junk. It could explain some recent fte I have had with normally reliable SR1911. The major suggestions are so expensive after loading up on components and ordering other stuff. The beams seem slow and use a lot of space. I may get Frankford Arsenal for now and on big spend in future buy a dillon or rcbs beam scale. Thanks.
 
Rugerspyderon said:
smart reloading SR750
How old is your scale? I was going to suggest you contact their customer service and inquire about their warranty.

When I went to the Return Policy page, all I could find was this
For Warranty returns please go to our Warranty section.
Funny thing is I can't find the Warranty section anywhere on their website! :confused:

I guess you could try calling them:

Toll FREE: (800) 954-2689
 
RCBS 5-0-5 bought new in 1981. It's a good example of the old saying "buy quality, buy once".

There are lots of things in this world I'm not certain about, but how much my powder charge actually weighs isn't one of them.
 
I saw an ad in a magazine that Hornady has a new beam scale in their line of lock-n-load products. I don't know anything about it other than the ad stated a price of $82. It looks similar to most other scales so it probably came out of the same factory as the other well known ones.(Just guessing)

I just purchased a RCBS 505 not long ago and it seems to be working well.

I bought a RCBS 10-10 a few years ago but I don't like the screw adjustment on it.

So far I like the 505 better.
 
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Rugerspypdern, I do not have the same problems shared by other reloaders, I do not need another set of scales, I do not have fewer than 20, accuracy? I have an Ohaus 30+ piece test weigh set for checking accuracy for the length of the beam. One is a counter scale, as in 1 to 10 balance, place 10 bullets on one side then balance the beam with 100 on the other side. Others go back to the Ol’ Gold days, made by Fairbanks and Morris. I have attended gun shows, I walk in without a scale and walk out with enough parts to build one or repair 2, all for as little as $10.00. Herters, Redding, Pacific. some with out balance beams, one old reloading scale required the correct weight on one side to balance the other.

I have two electric type RCBS scales, no problems, except I have friends that have no confidence in electricity, not a problem, they insist on Ohaus, and I ask which Ohaus, the Ohaus/Ohaus, RCBS/Ohaus, Lyman/Ohaus or a Ohaus/Ohaus complete with two beams, one in grains the other in grams.

Scales and computers, not related, everyone I know that has enough knowledge about a computer to gain access to the mother board has a can of compressed air for cleaning, and I say fantastic (because people that work on on computers are sensitive), all except me, I use a vacuum and different types of brushes. The computer is a vacuum, something like a magnet to dirt, grit and grime, not by design but a lot of stuff gets pulled into and through the computer, some of the stuff gets caught, builds up and stops air flow through the computer.

Any appliance that that uses electricity has components that get hot, capacitors, potentiometers, rheostats, transformers, exemptions, I must have one, I have florescent lights, appliances with high EMF and intensity consumption, like dryers, lathes mills and a kiln. (exemption) the dryer 220 bolt appliance has a metal cabinet, unless the electrons floating around the dryer (inside the cabinet) are magic, the electrons that make up a magnetic field stay inside the cabinet, something like an anti-magnetic watch that is designed to force the magnetic field to flow around the watch instead of through it.

Heat and electricity of components, the component that creates the highest amount of head is a transformer, going from 110 Volts AC to 9 volts DC creates heat, if I had a problem with an electronic scale I would check the voltage going to the scale from the charger? I called it a transformer/converter, it changed AC to DC and dropped the voltage, as in change, means it also has a rectifier.

RCBS sent me a new charger, the difference in value between the two leads was ‘0’. I do not know if it went slowly as in over a long period of time or Suddenly! and without warning! I informed RCBS I left it plugged for over a week. I checked the value of electrical motive force to the residence, 121 Volts, that is good.

Then there is the new Boeing with batteries problems, first it was being overcharged then I though back to the lap top computers that burst into flame, and all the starters that had that smell, something like the spirits that operated them left and in doing so left the wires with no insulation, and on and on and on.

No one said the batteries burst into flame because they got too hot because of low voltage, no one claimed the spirits left the starter because of low voltage, no one has claimed the air craft batteries are burning because of low voltage, “ I do not have the same problems shared by other reloaders” When I allow a battery to operate with a low charge the battery does everything it can to operate, when the voltage drops the amps/current/intensity increases, low voltage and high current creates heat, with the automotive electrical system the battery cables and starter can not handle the increase in amps caused by a drop in voltage, starter windings melt, cables get hot enough to melt the insulation. Again, I do not have the same problems, then there is that very small chance I understand the problem. RCBS sent me a new charger? The last time I sent them something I told them an elephant stepped on it, when I called about the charger they did not ask about my elephant.

F. Guffey
 
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I'm still using the same RCBS beam scale that came with my RCBS Jr. reloading kit bought back in '81. It works great as a go/no-go gauge for weighing powder drops, but is not much use for weight checking of things like bullets or brass...it's just too slow to manipulate the counter weights on the beam.
 
I have the basic Lee balance beam that IS super accurate but finicky to use and a very efficient MTM $30 digital that provides more than enough accuracy for my reloading needs and is easy to read for my ancient eyeballs -lol.

I would also note tht I only use Win 231/HP-38 for the four calibers I reload and it meters very well so that throw to throw there has been little variance using my Lee Pro dispenser. Once I have setted on the proper disk hole size I find little need to check weigh. Though I will just for safety's sake during a reloading session.
 
Been using RCBS 1010 for over 30 years, dropped the beam and fubar-ed it. Sent it to RCBS with an explanation that I TORE IT UP and they still replaced the scale free of charge. It just don't get no better than that.
 
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