trickyasafox
Member
does anyone here reload non-brass/nickle cases? i was curious if it was okay to do cause i saved all my brass before i got my setup, including some wolf casings.
reloading wolff?
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Cortland
Member
Once fired brass (in the calibers Wolf sells, anyway) is so cheap I don't know why you'd bother.
Just cause you didn't know what you were doing and saved them doesn't mean you have to use them. Throw them away now and be done with it.
I know there are people who reload steel cases (don't know about aluminum), but I'm not really sure why.
Just cause you didn't know what you were doing and saved them doesn't mean you have to use them. Throw them away now and be done with it.
I know there are people who reload steel cases (don't know about aluminum), but I'm not really sure why.
Kamicosmos
Member
Black_Snowman has reloaded some of the Wolf 223 cases. I don't remember him saying he had to do anything for the primers.
I just grabbed a 7.62x39mm Wolf case, one of the newer ones that's poly coated.
It has the two hole non-reloadable primer in it.
(I just picked up a barely used set of Lee Dies for 10 bucks, but I'll probably buy some winchester brass to reload. I mean...I shoot an AK, like I need to reload for either savings OR accuracy....heh.)
I just grabbed a 7.62x39mm Wolf case, one of the newer ones that's poly coated.
It has the two hole non-reloadable primer in it.
(I just picked up a barely used set of Lee Dies for 10 bucks, but I'll probably buy some winchester brass to reload. I mean...I shoot an AK, like I need to reload for either savings OR accuracy....heh.)
Smokey Joe
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2 different cases here (pun intended)
You mentioned nickel cases--these are nickel plated brass, and they don't have as long a reloading life as non-plated brass but they reload just fine until their necks crack, then you scrap 'em.
You also mentioned Wolf cases--these IMX are steel, not brass, and some are Berdan primed. Steel is an extra hassle to reload; get some nice brass cases and be done with it. Berdan primed cases are a PITA to reload; get some nice brass Boxer-primed cases and be done with it. (Boxer primed cases are the ones with a single large flash hole. Berdans have 2 off-center small holes.)
Notice I didn't say either one was impossible to reload. I have friends who insist on doing everything the hard way, just because. I tolerate their wierd ways, but I sure don't imitate them!
You mentioned nickel cases--these are nickel plated brass, and they don't have as long a reloading life as non-plated brass but they reload just fine until their necks crack, then you scrap 'em.
You also mentioned Wolf cases--these IMX are steel, not brass, and some are Berdan primed. Steel is an extra hassle to reload; get some nice brass cases and be done with it. Berdan primed cases are a PITA to reload; get some nice brass Boxer-primed cases and be done with it. (Boxer primed cases are the ones with a single large flash hole. Berdans have 2 off-center small holes.)
Notice I didn't say either one was impossible to reload. I have friends who insist on doing everything the hard way, just because. I tolerate their wierd ways, but I sure don't imitate them!
trickyasafox
Member
looks like ill just stick to my winchester brass
Black Snowman
Member
If it's boxer primed you can. I'm going to do a side by side test with some 223 loads I've made up with milsurp pulled bullets and powder. My Dad has done some 223 in S&B steel cases and they turned out OK. Only problem I've had is that the cases like to shave off more copper than brass cases tend to when seating the bullet. I don't think it will be noticable with my cheapo plinking loads
BluesBear
member
Years ago I reloaded GI steel .45acp cases. I spray lubed them and then ran them through my RCBS carbide sizer die. I did this for my target ammo because I could pick them up from the outdoor range I was using at the time with a magnet.
I had a VERY strong magnet that I mounted onto a 8" steel circle that I had affixed a wooden broom handle. Just waved it over the ground and all of my "brass" came home.
I did it primarily for the "cool factor". It was cool to be the only one shooting nice shiney steel cased ammo. It was cool not having to bend over to pick up brass. And it was definately cool to never have to argue over which cases belonged to who. But it probably wasn't as efficient or as cost effective as brass.
Right now, the fact that I can walk usassisted to the firing line is cool enough for me.
I reloaded some Wolf cases a few years ago just as an expreriment. They reloaded fine but the coatings looked kind of rough after just a couple of loadings. An extra day in the thumbler fixed that since it removed the coating.
Steel will work harden faster than brass and of course it can rust.
Nowadays I use Wolf for my outdoor plinking and I just leave it behind since it will decompose. Ashes to ashes and Wolf to rust you might say.
Even if you do have access to berdan depriming and priming tools NEVER attempt to reload an aluminum cartridge case. Aluminum is, at best, only suitable for a single use as ammunition.
I had a VERY strong magnet that I mounted onto a 8" steel circle that I had affixed a wooden broom handle. Just waved it over the ground and all of my "brass" came home.
I did it primarily for the "cool factor". It was cool to be the only one shooting nice shiney steel cased ammo. It was cool not having to bend over to pick up brass. And it was definately cool to never have to argue over which cases belonged to who. But it probably wasn't as efficient or as cost effective as brass.
Right now, the fact that I can walk usassisted to the firing line is cool enough for me.
I reloaded some Wolf cases a few years ago just as an expreriment. They reloaded fine but the coatings looked kind of rough after just a couple of loadings. An extra day in the thumbler fixed that since it removed the coating.
Steel will work harden faster than brass and of course it can rust.
Nowadays I use Wolf for my outdoor plinking and I just leave it behind since it will decompose. Ashes to ashes and Wolf to rust you might say.
Even if you do have access to berdan depriming and priming tools NEVER attempt to reload an aluminum cartridge case. Aluminum is, at best, only suitable for a single use as ammunition.
Wildalaska
member
Reloading Wolf is easy. Find surplus russian military powder (stuff made the the civil war is best), scoop the cases full so as to ensure inconsitent velocity, then spray a heavy coat of laquer on the finished round so as to increase the likelihood of broken guns. Give it to your friends for .35 cents a box less than US made stuff and they will spend the rest of their lives praising it on the net to cover the shame
WildyaknewthatwascomingAlaska
WildyaknewthatwascomingAlaska
mr.trooper
Member
Yes, you CAN reload steel cased berden primed cartridges. Its not the best, but you can.
Youl need a speial tool to remove the primer....dont bother searching for one, you probably wont find any. if this is something your REALY wanting to do, your probably going to have to make said tool yourself. I wouldnt bother though, its realy not worth it.
Youl need a speial tool to remove the primer....dont bother searching for one, you probably wont find any. if this is something your REALY wanting to do, your probably going to have to make said tool yourself. I wouldnt bother though, its realy not worth it.
BluesBear
member
Some Wolf is Boxer primed. .45acp for one.
Since trickasafox never answered the which caliber question I am only guessing that boxer primed ammo was being considered.
Hopefully trickasafox mwill inspect all fired cases to make sure they are boxer primed. Berdan primed cases are murder on decapping pins.
RCBS sells a berdan decapping tool so there aren't very difficult to find.
I do agree however that berdan primed ammo is more trouble than it's worth.
Since trickasafox never answered the which caliber question I am only guessing that boxer primed ammo was being considered.
Hopefully trickasafox mwill inspect all fired cases to make sure they are boxer primed. Berdan primed cases are murder on decapping pins.
RCBS sells a berdan decapping tool so there aren't very difficult to find.
I do agree however that berdan primed ammo is more trouble than it's worth.
trickyasafox
Member
oh geez im sorry i thought i said 223 in the original thread. i apologize all. i guess its kinda moot though as i think ill just stick to winchester brass. thanks again for all the help
The Bushmaster
Member
Good for you Trickasafox...I am curious though. Other then the fact you can use a magnet to pick them up at the range. Why would anyone want to use steel cases. I would think that they would not be all that forgiving when it comes to carbon build up in the chamber...Not mention other debris that may accumulate in the chamber...
trickyasafox
Member
i planned to use them just as a bandaid fix till i got more actual brass to reload. kind of a just to get me by kinda thing. . . i dont even have a magnet big enough to pick em up anyway, and shooting an single shot encore, they dont exactly get tossed around. . .
i guess the main reason is, im a pack rat, and i just cant bring myself to throw stuff away easily
i guess the main reason is, im a pack rat, and i just cant bring myself to throw stuff away easily
Smokey Joe
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Recycling
Trickasafox--Understand completely, man. I'm a thoroughgoing packrat myself. MAYBE in yr. area there is a recycler who will accept yr. steel cases and then they'd get remade, perhaps into a 2006 Chevy front fender. And you wouldn't have thrown them away. Steel doesn't sell for much, if anything, but I for one always feel better when I can get something to go around again rather than into the landfill.
Same recycler who just accepts my steel, also pays me $$ for brass cases--separated from the steel ones--car batteries, copper electrical wire, etc, etc. Only thing he won't take is electric stuff with capacitors or ballast. He's never refused anything else, pays $$ for most of it. This I call a Good Thing.
Trickasafox--Understand completely, man. I'm a thoroughgoing packrat myself. MAYBE in yr. area there is a recycler who will accept yr. steel cases and then they'd get remade, perhaps into a 2006 Chevy front fender. And you wouldn't have thrown them away. Steel doesn't sell for much, if anything, but I for one always feel better when I can get something to go around again rather than into the landfill.
Same recycler who just accepts my steel, also pays me $$ for brass cases--separated from the steel ones--car batteries, copper electrical wire, etc, etc. Only thing he won't take is electric stuff with capacitors or ballast. He's never refused anything else, pays $$ for most of it.
This I call a Good Thing.I met a guy at my range who was reloading Wolf .45 ACP cases for his Webley .455 revolver. He said they worked better for him than brass cases because the rims were thinner. He reloaded the steel cases multiple times without any problems. I saved my .45 ACP Wolf cases for him for a couple of years until he switched to shooting another caliber.
I decided to try it for myself, for my 1911, and I agree it works O.K.. I lubed the cases and used carbide dies. Re-sizing required just a little extra force. I reloaded maybe 400-500 (only one time) as light target rounds and shot some of them at ranges where I couldn't recover the empties. They worked just as good as brass. Still have a couple of boxes of the reloads on the shelf, for times when I expect to lose the cases.
Why did I do it? Because I could. I have enough brass cases stockpiled now that I don't really expect to reload steel cases again, but I have about 1000 steel empties set aside for the proverbial "rainy day".
I'm certainly not recommending reloading the steel cases to anyone, but I tried it and it worked for me - reloading light loads one time.
Alan
I decided to try it for myself, for my 1911, and I agree it works O.K.. I lubed the cases and used carbide dies. Re-sizing required just a little extra force. I reloaded maybe 400-500 (only one time) as light target rounds and shot some of them at ranges where I couldn't recover the empties. They worked just as good as brass. Still have a couple of boxes of the reloads on the shelf, for times when I expect to lose the cases.
Why did I do it? Because I could. I have enough brass cases stockpiled now that I don't really expect to reload steel cases again, but I have about 1000 steel empties set aside for the proverbial "rainy day".
I'm certainly not recommending reloading the steel cases to anyone, but I tried it and it worked for me - reloading light loads one time.
Alan
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