Reloads refusing to chamber

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Vince Cyr

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I picked up a Lee Classic Loader in 223, figuring it would go well with my Ruger American Ranch in 5.56. Thing I'm running into though is that the rounds are refusing to chamber. The bolt doesn't want to close on them. I think I have it narrowed down to the shoulder angle being off, but what I don't get is why that would be a factor(BTW, I'm running into the same issue before I size the brass too, so I don't think the loader is causing the problem). It's all once fired brass that originally was fired in this gun. The brass should have fire-formed to the chamber. If the shoulder angle is a bit off, it's because it now matches the chamber, and it shouldn't be jamming there. I know the Lee Loader only neck sizes, but that is all that should be required, right?
 
If the once-fired brass won't rechamber, the Lee whack-a-mole tool won't help since it neck sizes only.

As to why the once-fired brass won't chamber, we can only guess without measurement. I have a rifle with a slightly egg-shaped chamber that I found with exactly the same experience you're having, so that's one possibility.

Perhaps an interference impression will help. With a piece of once fired brass, try chambering it and rotate it ~20deg at a time. If it clocks to the chamber and fits at a specific rotational position, you're found the problem. Next, completely color a case with sharpie, chamber, and see if the interference leaves discernable marks.
 
Are you pulling the bolt back all the way and letting it snap back and it is failing to go into battery?

If so yes it is likely a brass sizing issue….

On all of my semi auto rifles I use Rcbs precisions mics to establish the bare minimum for my shoulder bump back, usually -.002” Just one of the steps on the way to accurate reloads. The book will tell you to full size all brass for an semi auto, but the above works for me…..
 
The bolt face may not be square to the chamber , or as already said
egg-shaped chamber.

Do not fire 5.56 Nato ammo in a 223 chamber. It may produce high pressure. This could keep fired brass from chambering. Even brass fired in the same rifle .
 
Every time I have chambering problems with bottleneck cartridges I check to see if the brass was trimmed to the proper length before reloading. Usually it was not.
 
As you know and said the you are only neck sizing but when neck sizing there usually comes a point you need to bump the shoulder back to cure your very problem. Most likely the shoulder is just too far forward and only bumping it back will cure it.

I usually recommend a very inexpensive press (very inexpensive) and a set of Lee dies to keep the price down.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/807734/lee-breech-lock-reloader-single-stage-press
 
Are you pulling the bolt back all the way and letting it snap back and it is failing to go into battery?

If so yes it is likely a brass sizing issue….

On all of my semi auto rifles I use Rcbs precisions mics to establish the bare minimum for my shoulder bump back, usually -.002” Just one of the steps on the way to accurate reloads. The book will tell you to full size all brass for an semi auto, but the above works for me…..
It's a bolt action, not a semi. The Ruger American Ranch Rifle, not the Ruger Ranch Rifle. It is a little confusing, they should have named it something else.

The bolt face may not be square to the chamber , or as already said

Do not fire 5.56 Nato ammo in a 223 chamber. It may produce high pressure. This could keep fired brass from chambering. Even brass fired in the same rifle .
It is a 5.56 chamber, so it's safe for both. The regular American is 223 only, but the Ranch line has the military chamber. Partly why I went with it.
I'm thinking there might be something to the oblong chamber theory. I'm gonna see if it goes in the chamber in a certain orientation.
 
My mistake Vince.... did not know Ruger had come up with RAR-Ranch. I have a RAR 22mag for one of my truck guns that is very accurate for its price point. I have 3 mini's two of which are ranch rifles and not tack drivers...
 
perhaps you could give some more info,
does this happen with factory loaded ammo, does this happen with with your resized brass that has not been loaded "no projectile"
what brass and bullet and OAL are you loading ,
also maybe you have a defective lee product or you should get a cheap single stage press and some full length dies to use, its my understanding the fire-formed brass will still need FL sized time to time , I never used the lee classic loader can it be adjusted to bump the shoulder back like screw in press dies that can be adjusted , also are you trimming your brass,
 
"...all that should be required, right?..." Yep. Check the case lengths. Don't over think the whole thing either.
If loaded rounds are refusing to chamber check the OAL length. MAX OAL for the .223 is 2.260".
"...the Lee Classic Loader can it be adjusted to bump the shoulder back..." Nope. The neck size only. The only 'technical' issue with 'em. Being slow isn't technical. All the "adjust your dies" how-to's on the planet don't apply to 'em either.
 
I have been reloading for 40 years. I just started reloading for the 223. This cartridge has given me more headaches than any other. Since I started I have purchased a power case trimmer, case gauge, and a second set of SB dies. After about 300 rounds down range, I have assured myself that my loads are safe and within specs. Buy yourself a case gauge before loading the case. Don't be surprised if you wind up spending some money you never figured on for this caliber.
 
And now it's working. I'm really confused. I didn't get a chance to try anything, it just started chambering fine. Sorry for the bother everyone, and thanks for the help.

Oh, and factory loads never gave me any issue. Chambered fine even when the once fired brass wouldn't.
 
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I had a similar issue on my 550B, I discovered that my sizing die wasnt going down far enough. Once I adjusted that all went great...
 
And now it's working. I'm really confused
chances are the issue may return , I would think one of these is messing with you , sizing, trimming, OAL, it may not hurt to go back to step #1 of a good reloading manual and read through it you may be missing something in your process, I don't know how long you have been reloading but things rarely fix themselves IMHO
 
I had the same problem with once fired 22-250 cases and the Lee neck size die. Some cases would chamber a little hard to not at all. Gave up and will only full size.
 
I swear .223 is the hardest cartridge to reload that I ever fooled with. If it won't chamber you can bet it is the shoulder. Not sure why but it's most likely the way you're setting up the die. Make sure you lube the inside of the necks to, that's another area that causes problems.
 
I swear .223 is the hardest cartridge to reload that I ever fooled with. If it won't chamber you can bet it is the shoulder. Not sure why but it's most likely the way you're setting up the die. Make sure you lube the inside of the necks to, that's another area that causes problems.

This and also make sure you properly deburr/chamfer after trimming. Then as a final step run a case neck brush down the cartridge mouth.
 
Ive never had this issue with .223/5.56, but i have with other catridges, and rifles.

Usually its just that the shoulder isnt getting bumped back far enough on sizing. My brand new 6.5-284 requires that i make sure the die contacts the shell holder when sizing cases or the bolt wont close. And even then there is some slight resistance.

Take a sharpie and mark up a case that wont chamber after sizing. Then try chamber it and work the bolt a few times with some force, but dont really crank on it. The marks will be discolored or rubbed off where its getting stuck.
 
The solution to chambering problems is to determine the cause:

For pistols, take the barrel out of the gun. For revolvers, open the cylinder. For rifles, attempting to chamber the rounds. In most cases, a gage could be used.
Drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth a few times.

Remove and inspect the round:

1) Scratches in the ink on bullet--COL is too long

2) Scratches in the ink on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp

3) Scratches in the ink just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case

4) Scratches in the ink on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit

5) Scratches in the ink on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need to full-length resize or use a bulge buster.
 
Glad problem is solved, the only thing I could think of is that the shoulder area was being misshaped somehow, possibly by buckling into a sharper angle. Always had good luck with my Lee Loader until the necks got hard.
 
Don't try to reload brass that wasn't previously fired in YOUR rifle with the Lee loaders.
I found out about this 45years ago trying to load .30/30 in a Remington Mod-788.
My ofb was fine, other brass fired in unknown rifles (range pickups) usually would not chamber due to larger tolerances in lever action rifle chambers.
As stated by others, the Lee tool only sizes the necks.
 
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