I have a 7400 carbine safe queen in .30-06 that probably would have remained a safe queen if it weren't for my friends need for a deer gun. Ive recently bought a small base sizer die and would like to load for it seeing its won't eat factory ammo all to well. I'm familiar with loading for Garands using IMR 4895, 4064 and AA 2520. I'd like to use 165 speer deep curls as their available at my local shop and would like a protected point/bonded bullet. The only thing that leaves me wondering is why a company would offer a .30-06 with an 18 inch barrel??? Any suggestion? Minute of deer is all I look to accomplish and trying several boxes of 20+ dollar factory ammo isn't in the budget when I have tons of reloading resources.
REM 7400, .30-06 Carbine
- Thread starter Visionz45
- Start date
- Status
I have the pump 760 and it eats it all...Not sure about the one you discuss...
Big deal would be sizing for good feeding, over all length is a biggie and of course having the pressures up high enough to recyle well...
Here is a good read for you...
http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=346159
Some have called it the "Jam o matic"
Regards
Big deal would be sizing for good feeding, over all length is a biggie and of course having the pressures up high enough to recyle well...
Here is a good read for you...
http://forum.gon.com/showthread.php?t=346159
Some have called it the "Jam o matic"
Regards
FROGO207
Member
I have one of those but not the carbine. I am having fits with mine also. It will fire the first round dead on but when cycling it will strip a round and reload but not cock itself. If I manually cycle the bolt and release it slowly the next round will fire however. Tried from starting load to max and ALL the factory ammo that I could find but nothing works in mine.:banghead: Factory says my rifle is OK twice.
Its funny you being from Maine too, these guns were the hot ticket for many around me as we hunt thick cover(I think maybe safety could be questioned there maybe with all of those rounds flying). I cleaned the barrel, chamber and operating system really well and re-lubed. Ill shoot work ups of all powders I first mentioned. Some say the AA 2520 wont cycle even at max but we'll see, Ill report back. Im going to try 150's and 165 Accubonds seated so they fit the mag and feed well.
Frogo, try disassembling the whole rig mags included and clean with an agressive solvent that wont remove bluing, I had mag problem once simply because silly me dropped one in a puddle and neglected to clean it, you learn quick at 17.
Frogo, try disassembling the whole rig mags included and clean with an agressive solvent that wont remove bluing, I had mag problem once simply because silly me dropped one in a puddle and neglected to clean it, you learn quick at 17
.I believe the trick for that shooter to recoil correct is the heavier 180's, but if the 165 is hot enough it should do it
I got good results with close to max with AA2520 and 165's. This rifle, I believe, is the first year that they called it a "7400". My dad bought it in the early 90's. I know AA2520 is more tailored toward .308 Win case capacity but I loaded some extra R-P brass with 150 BT's and shot them out of my 25" Montana and the velocities were really great. I got hang fires in both guns at charges under 48.2 grains with CCI 250's. I pushed it to 52.2 in my bolt gun and 3100+ wasn't unattainable. 18 1/2" barrels seem to bring the '06 down to .300 savage/.308 performance.
With the barrel length only 18.5 you have to think a little faster burning powder imho... True pressures will go up some, be careful in your work up, couple at a time, and always use exactly what you work the load up to...
If ever changing any thing in components back off some and start the climb again to reach a good shooting round, tailor made for the Carbine, a must imho
If ever changing any thing in components back off some and start the climb again to reach a good shooting round, tailor made for the Carbine, a must imho
kaferhaus
Member
Remove the trigger group and clean it with brake cleaner, Check that the disconnector is grabbing the hammer by manually slapping the hammer back as fast as you can... check the hammer and disconnector mating surfaces for squareness... if either mating surface is rounded or has a burr on it the hammer will follow the bolt forward and will not remain "cocked". You can carefully true the surfaces up with a very fine flat file or honing stone.
Re-lube with light machine oil and replace.
- Status
Similar threads
