RemChoke stuck???

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Averageman

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I'm working on a used 870 I recently purchased and the choke tube is pretty secure in the barrel at this point. No amount of force beyond what I thought prudent, I.E. tapping the wrench with a rubber mallet will break it loose.
Right now it is soaking in Marvel Mystery Oil for 8 or so hours before I try again,..any other suggestions?
 
Try leaving the oily front exposed to the hot sun on a hot day on both sides for an hour each and see if the heat/expansion hasn't broken the bonds in there after it has cooled off...
Al
 
Brownell's sell a special extractor tool, but it costs about $100.00.

One trick is to soak it in Kroil which is a super penetrating fluid.
Give the muzzle area some sharp raps with a plastic hammer or a large screwdriver handle.
Allow the Kroil to work overnight and give it more raps with the plastic.
Then try again.

You can also buy crank-type choke wrenches that can put more force on the choke than the usual small tube tools.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4175/Product/UNIVERSAL_CHOKE_TUBE_WRENCH

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4177/Product/SPORTING_CLAYS_SPEED_WRENCH

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1827/Product/CHOKE_TUBE_SPEED_WRENCH
 
Hmmmmmm, I just got back from the movies and havent tried it yet as my lighting in the shop is down.
Marvel Mystery Oil is some good stuff, but reminding me of heating and or cooling the barrel will be the next option if this doesn't work in the morning. I have used Marvel to free up siezed pistons before so hopefully a good soak will do it.
I've also kept bearings in the freezer overnight, heated an oil tank in the oven to clean it and parked a vintage Triumph Chopper in the Bedroom for a year...

I have a very understanding Girlfriend.
Thanks All
A/M
 
I have the Brownells stuck tube extractors in 12 and 20 guage.
I have had to use them several times to remove really frozen tubes from customers guns.
These extractors work like a charm but will destroy the choke tube during removal and I always rechase the muzzle threads after using these tools.
They should be considered the absolute last resort.

Tubes can become peened into the threads from a steady diet of steel shot and can become rust frozen from neglect.
Stainless tubes were supposed to eliminate these issues but it didn't work out as well as the engineers had planned and tubes still become near hopelessly stuck in the muzzle.

I recommend all shooters using choke tubes lubricate the tubes with good gun grease or better yet, specially formulated choke tube grease and pull and reinstall the tube at least daily if not two or three times during the day of shooting to keep it from peening or rusting into place.HTH
 
I can't say if there's any reason not to use it on a gun, but PB Blaster is readily available and has never failed me in loosening all kinds of old and rusty nuts/bolts on the old cars I drive.
 
I'm very familiar with PB Blaster, I will give it a try next.
So far it's soaked about 12 hours in M.M.O. (which is some great stuff too BTW) and the dang choke tube still wont budge. I have heated it to 350 degrees in an oven and still no luck.
It's back soaking in the M.M.O. Tub for the time being. I am going to go work out and try again when I get back.
Any idea if a heat gun would damage the barrel?
Bringing it up to 500 degree's and trying again with sparays of PB blaster between attempts???
I have learned a few tricks about bringing a 870 Express Parkerized finish back while working this project if anyone is interested.
 
Choke tube grease and anti seize have a lot in common yes.

My favorite anti-seize is made by Cop-Graf and called A.S.+ lubricating compound.

It is the same basic copper colored stuff that everybody asks about when they buy their first Glock and find smears of it on the bottom of the slide.

Anti-Seize Technology
2345 N. 17th Ave.
Franklin Park, Ill. 60131

www.antiseize.com
 
upside down can of compressed air directed at the choke tube. i suppose you could combine this with heating the barrel for a more dramatic effect.
 
Hmmmmm; I think it is time for a professionals help??
24 hours soaking in MMO, heatgun and then compressed cold air to the choke tube, still as stuck as before.
More soaking,...
This is a used gun
 
Wow. Are you sure it has interchangeable chokes?
LOL
Maybe it is just a "Modified," or whatever, barrel at this point...
Al
 
BTDT. For the less than the price of having it cut and having thin-wall chokes installed, you could buy another barrel. Poke around for a used one (you can find them from $50 to $80) and keep that one as-is or saw it down to 18 1/4". Having this issue made me a fan of choke-tube maintenance and lubrication. :)
 
Yes it is a flush mounted choke or it would have had a monkey wrench on it by now.
Ive heated it and then shot the cold compressed air inside, no luck yet.
I have tried to tighten it a bit then reverse it,...
I have another barrel on the way, but like I said this is a used gun; I havent had this problem before. It is poor maintainance, I agree.
I am poking around at it some more.
I may stick it in a cooler with some dry ice and see what happens. I have had great luck installing bearing that way in the past.
I will keep trying and posting the results.
 
Hello friends and neighbors // How long since the shotgun has been fired.

Shoot a couple of rounds of bird shot to loosen things up.Then (after checking to be sure the gun is unloaded) apply Hoppe's #9 to a patch and wipe the patch around the edges of the muzzle looking to get some into the threads. Then clean the barrel with hoppe's #9 and turn it upside down so excess runs into choke from the bottom.

Fire a few more rounds and repeat above then try the choke tool again. Slightly tightening at first then backing off.

I'm heading back to check the freedom of my chokes now.
Thanks for the reminder and good luck.
 
One thing I would do is to also take it to the pattern board and shoot it with your intended load and see whether it might work for your use. Never know - it might be just the ticket the way it is!
 
A bunch of good info has been offered and sounds like it has been followed.

Assuming it is a 12 gauge and short of a stuck tube remover (and the ruination of the tube) try the following.

Place a quarter of a dollar piece in a bench mounted vise with half of the coin
sticking out and the edge facing toward you at about chest level.

With the gun fully assembled press and engage the choke tube notches into the coin.
Using a good firm pressure against the coin rotate the gun via the receiver and butt stock.

The quarter will give out (bend) before you can bugger up the end of the choke.
The dramatically increased torque available turning the whole gun instead of the
tube makes the difference.

Best of luck
Patrick
 
I have had this same problem on 6 or 7 Remington's. Two of them were used guns that I traded for, and the others were customers guns.

The first thing is to soak in oil. ( Sounds like you have done a good job of that ) second, get yourself a factory Remington choke wrench as pictured below. It has a 3/8 inch hole that will let you put a long handle ratchet or pull handle in for more leverage.

If that doesn't work, take it to a mechanic shop and have them use a 3/8" impact wrench on it. The hammering action will get it loose. I have used the impact trick on every stuck choke I have ever had. And it worked and didn't hurt the barrel or the choke.
 
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once you get that tube out make sure to rechase the threads (like mentioned previously) also ditch that tube..

for future use of any choke tubes make sure to put some gun oil or grease on the threads when installing... I also like to remove my tubes after I clean the gun (before storing in the safe) and clean the internal and external surfaces on them (and the internal surface of the barrel that is hidden by the choke tube). then apply a liberal amount of CLP or a dry teflon based lube (lowes has one from Dupont for around $4 a can)...

never had a stuck tube...
 
Don't use oil, anti-seize or similar grease is your best best as it also helps to keep the tubes from coming loose while you are shooting.

Those tubes need to be removed after each session so you can clean the threads inside the barrel and on the tubes themselves. Brake cleaner does a good job of flushing the gunk from inside the barrel
 
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