Remington 1100 cleaning

[Red Dobe]

I inherited an 1100 and took it trap shooting the other day. I took the barrel off and cleaned it but did not take the trigger group out or the bolt. Is it necessary to do this every cleaning or just occasionally? Not really sure what or how to clean those parts and if it needs lube...

 

[Milkmaster]

I don't know that it is necessary absolutely every time, but I do it each time because it is so easy to take out and put back. Just a light spray of rem oil after cleaning will do nicely on the trigger group.

In your case I would clean it at least the first time to make sure it is clean, lubed, and inspected to start with.

 

[roo_ster]

I shot a lot of skeet & trap as a kid with my dad and our 1100s.

Cleaning consisted of:
1. Swabbing the bbl with a nail, string, and hunk of rag with lemon oil on it.
2. Spraying out the bolt & trigger group with WD40
3. Wiping it all down with lemon oil-laden rag

This was mostly in Florida. No rust, no failures. Just lotsa father/son clay-bustin' good fun.

Nowadays, I'd probably disassemble more and use higher-quality cleaning products. But, it is had to argue with the success we had.

 

[george_co]

My apologies to the OP if this drifts the the thread from where it wants it to go, but I believe this is associated to his question.

Last night I took apart my new 1100 Sportking 12ga to clean it. I decided that I would take out the bolt, but I saw no need to take out the trigger group as I had only fired 75 rounds out of the gun.

Anyway when I went to reinstall the bolt it would not go all the way back into the receiver. It appears that the "Link" is loose and in the way. Looking into the receiver with a flashlight it looks like their is a cup in the very back of the reciever that the two ends of the "Link" need to go into. The owners manual was of no real help here and I had no joy in finding anything on the remington site.

So my questions are:
1. Does the link fit back into the cup?
2. Have you, can you reinstall the link with some bent-needle nose pliars?
3. Or is the only (best) way to reinstall the link is to take the trigger group assembly out? If so, what tools (pin punch sizes) do you use to do that?
4. Finally, what spare parts to keep on hand? I could see the need to keep at least some "O" rings on hand.

I have several pump action shotguns that I have maintained over the years, this is my first semi-auto, and to say i was suprised that I might have to take out the trigger group each time I take out the bolt would be an understatement.

Again to the OP if this something you don't wish to discuss please say so and I will delete and repost as an orignal thread.

George

 

[qbpc]

2 Pins on the triger group why not. Very easy to do and lots of crud builds up in this area. Although the most important area to clean on a 1100 the the gas op system.

 

[JohnBT]

"what tools (pin punch sizes) do you use"

Any brass punch, golf tee, Bic pen, dull finishing nail, etc. If you don't have a small brass or plastic hammer to hit it with use a knife handle, a rock or a can of tuna or creamed corn. Don't use the primer end of a live shell.

I think Remington has the manual on line.

John

2.97 MB .pdf file Manual - www.remington.com/pdfs/om/om_11001187.pdf

 

[ArmedBear]

LOL

JohnBT has it right. Chopsticks and bamboo barbecue skewers work well for me, and they don't scratch the finish. Tap them with a soup ladle, small hardback book, etc. They're loose-fit to the holes and held in by spring detents; they're not press-fit. If you tap them past the detents, they pop out. You just have to tap them twice, once for each retaining slot.

(Can you tell my gun cleaning area is between the kitchen and the grill?)

Re cleaning, you don't have to clean the trigger group every time. But when I bought my 35-year-old 1100, it failed to lock open when empty. I popped out the trigger group because I thought it would have a broken or worn part. It didn't; it just needed a good cleaning. Probably never got a good cleaning in its life. After I cleaned everything and oiled it lightly, the gun ran like new.

So, when you first get the thing, I'd strip it way down.

Take out the magazine tube contents, too, and thoroughly clean and lightly oil the tube and spring. If it has a wooden plug for hunting, replace it with a plastic one. Wood holds water and causes rust. My tube had a small amount of surface rust in it; again, it probably never got cleaned and was used for waterfowl at some point.

Also, replace the O-ring. It's probably hardened.

Never assume that the previous owner cleaned or maintained the gun. Always do that yourself when you get it.

 

[george_co]

Gentlemen - Thank you.

Yeah, I was figuring that they were press fit and that they would need a little more coaxing then what you are indicating. Bad things can happen between steel punches and blued finishes.

George

 

[NCdad]

I believe ARMED BEAR has answered almost everything you need to know... I would like to add only two things.
1) never use WD40 on a blued surface -- it will over time remove the blueing.
2) Call Remington at 1-800-243-9700 and ask them to send you the owner's manual. Or as John BT suggested you can view it online.

 

[NCdad]

George co,
When you disassembled your M1100, you cocked it first. You must lock the trigger safety button. If you did not lock it and you pulled the trigger when it was out of the receiver, you will have a difficult time putting it back -just as you described.
Whenever I remove the trigger assembly, I always lock the trigger in the cocked position because I was told one can damage the trigger assembly if I did not.
How do you resolve this ? I suggest you speak with a Remington qualified gunsmith. I am not a gunsmith. Do not try to force the trigger assembly back in.

 

[Shell Shucker]

I have shot a lot of skeet lately with my 1100 20ga. I have not had the need to pull the bolt or drop the trigger group after every outing. After 400-500 rounds it gets a bit sluggish; then I clean.
After every outing I normally clean the outside of the magazine tube (paper towel sprayed with Rem-Oil), put a drop of oil on the action bars, and wipe down the outside.
I run the 1100 a bit more "WET" than my other shotguns. When I initially ran it nearly "dry" as I'm accustomed to doing on most of my guns it had a lot more "issues".

 

[george_co]

Again, thanks all!

I used a toothpick and a screwdriver handle, drove out the pins, dropped the trigger assembly, used needle nose pliers and put the link back in, and then reversed the process.

Everything went well, the gun is back together and appears to function normally.

George