Remington 700 help?

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Hotrod44

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I've been looking to get a new Remington. The caliber that I'm going to get is a 7mm mag. I've narrowed my 3 choices between the SPS stainless, the XCR 2 and the CDL SF. The SPS Stainless is $800. The XCR 2 is $1000 and the CDL SF is $1,100. My question is, is the latter two worth the extra $200-$300 and if so which one. From my understanding so far these are the only differences between the guns. The SPS Stainless and the XCR 2 have the same Hogue stock but the XCR 2 has the TriNyte coating. The CDL SF is the same as the SPS Stainless except it has a wood stock and a fluted barrel. I may be completely wrong about these assumptions. These are the only models/calibers that I'm looking at. Is there a difference in quality between those 3 guns? I plan to use this both deer and elk hunting and I want to use this for a long time. Thank you in advance for all the comments!
 
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Another thing I should add is that I live in the Pacific Northwest so the gun might be exposed to more conditions than average. Does the TriNyte coating really make a difference or is it just something for them to raise the price for.
 
Tupperware stocks flex and stress the action more than typical wood stocks which impacts accuracy. I have a Hogue full bedding block stock and it flexes the action on my rifle under certain circumstances. Wood stocks can warp but that is extremely rare. The only synthetic stocks used in serious target competition are fiberglass or fiberglass/carbon fiber or fiberglass/kevlar besides the space gun tube frame stocks. Quite a few target guns wear laminated wood stocks. Pillar bedding in solid stock of whatever material is my preference.
Skip the Hogue and go with the CDL SF.
 
I have only had the CDL, I think it's a classic style gun, and a perfect hunting setup. I also like the mountain rifle 700 stainless, I didn't look them up, but if all are the 700 action your only looking at aesthetics/weight differences unless they stocks differ enough to change your cheek weld using scope versus irons. You can check out Boyd's stocks for laminated stocks (they an be a bit heavy) I don't care for the plastic injection molded stocks I had much rather have laminated, my first choice is nice walnut or decent walnut, next laminate if I had the money I would own more than one McMillan a true synthetic stock.

I have hunted with Remington 700's for a very long time, and I have always been happy with them.
 
I actually prefer a wood stock, it's easier to bed and float. The synthetic stock Rem puts on those is really not all that great, and it comes pressure bedded, which when floated is a nightmare to work out. If I were going to do it all over again, I would just buy a high end synthetic stock, much easier.

That said, I have the SPS SS in 7 mag. and I did get it shooting really well, but it took some work and ingenuity to stiffen up the stock enough to support the weight of the barrel when I floated it. Prior to floating the barrel and a few other little tuning up grades I performed, it wouldn't hold a 1" group, which it now produces better than 1".

I bought one of the old ADL's back in the 80's with a wood stock, it was so simple to tune that little .270 win, it would shoot 1/2" groups all day long.

GS
 
People have been hunting with wood stocked rifles for about 500 years now.

And they have been looking for a better replacement for 499 years.

I gave up on wood in the early 1980's. I've seen too many warp, crack, and split. And those are quite rare. I've never ran across a wood stock that would maintain the same zero as the seasons change. Every time the humidity, temperature or altitude changes the zero changes. This is the real problem with wood. I bought a Brown Precision stock in 1982 and haven't hunted with a wood stocked bolt gun since.

But most of the factory synthetics aren't really the answer either. I'd buy the SPS with the cheaper stock and use it until I could afford a true quality synthetic stock. While the factory stocks don't look as nice they are functional and accurate.

When you can justify the funds buy a McMillan, Brown Precision, High-Tech Specialties, MPI, or Manners stock for it. Don't waste your time with the $200-$300 replacements including Hogue or B&C, they are a downgrade from what comes from the factory. McMillan offers the most options and most bolt right on with no gunsmithing required. The others are good too, but often need to be fit by a good gunsmith to give best results.
 
I will say I have never seen a gun change point of impact due to humidity entering a wood stock causing the stock to change dimensions. I have had one stock to warp that was a 2nd stock to begin with, and left unfinished. With today's finishes (even yesterdays and years 100 years or so) wood stocks have been water proof, cold proof etc, and the plastic injection molded stocks actually react more to heat changes than wood (who would wood of thunk ?) The synthetic stocks from manufactures that everyone calls tupperware are the biggest ripoff, money making scam ever in the gun making. They are not impervious to temp change, they do reduce accuracy, and they are very uncomfortable. Do some research on the plastic injection molded stocks, if they were not dirt cheap the rifle makers would have zero use for them, and imagine of these stocks sell for $20 used like new or new take off imagine what the manufactures have in them I would think less than $5

McMillan and such stocks are not included in this and are truly what a synthetic stock should be.
 
People have been hunting with wood stocked rifles for about 500 years now.
Wow. I love good looking wood stocks as much as anyone. Hey I do finish carpentry. I also spend weeks in the field hunting elk and deer. My rifles get wet, I get wet. I also consider stainless a big deal on my hunting rifles...they did not have that 500 years ago either. Typical forum trolls. The op is in a wet climate and asked about rem 700 choices. Non of the rifles mentioned will matter one way or the other in shot placement. It would be nice for him though if the stock was not getting soaked every day he is in the field. You guys do know that water runs into the inside of the stock and stays there under the forearm and the action don't you. Stick your fancy wood in a rifle scabbard for days of riding horseback in wet weather and tell me you would not want a synthetic stock.
 
The finishes on wood stocks do not allow water in. Several choices will protect the stock from water a couple are oil finish, shellac type finishes, and epoxy type finishes. If you seal the stock all over not just what you see on the outside water will not enter the stock.

Do a test finish a stock with one of the above finishes correctly, then weigh it, go submerge it into a creek for a hour remove dry and weigh the stock. I don't understand how water will enter a finished stock ? By the way stainless that is most often used on guns will rust however I also like stainless for hunting rifles or in general. Many of the new coatings will probably outperform blued, and stainless I'm not sure how melonite holds up to corrosion I'm thinking of my next hunting rifle in stainless and melonite the entire thing action, barrel, screws etc.. not sure how it will hold up on bolt or if you can even do it ? The bolt is of more concern to me than wood stock as all that water people are talking about will enter bolt then freeze. I use Eezox on all my hunting firearms this keeps then dry and corrosion free. I hunt in Georgia, so our water comes mostly from humidity more so than rain, however when younger I have hunting in the pouring rain....

It's a good idea to check your stocks especially hunting stocks by removing action and using whatever finish you choose to seal the stock even when purchasing new, or used. You can check it every year when pulling down for a good cleaning or before hunting season after that it takes 10 minutes.

I prefer oil finish wood as it's easy to repair any damage to the stock also very easy to maintain the finish.
 
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Typical forum trolls.

I offered a valid counter opinion to your absolute response. How is that being a forum troll?

I am sure that fiberglass is better all around as far as functionality, but wood stocked guns are not completely useless for hunting, even in bad weather.
 
I am sure that fiberglass is better all around as far as functionality, but wood stocked guns are not completely useless for hunting, even in bad weather.

Of course not. I never said they were. We agree. Every thing has its place. I think polymer pistol frames are silly also but I have some along with my steel and aluminum framed ones. I apologize for the troll remark and stand by my opinion that inclement weather and fine wood stocks do not mix...not that wood does not work. A broken tree branch works in a pinch.
 
Maybe a 700 sps wood tech? Kinda the best of both worlds. Laminated wood stock and blued. Think it is a little cheaper than a CDL.
 
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A couple very simple and inexpensive steps to keep them protected, is I bed them, then coat the inside with some polyurethane. I've never had one warp or the floated barrel start touching, and the weather I expose them to is quite extreme, from dry warm temps, dry wet, to cold wet climates, over and over again for years. I had one split once about 25 years ago, but it had nothing to do with warping, and everything to do with a gun smith not knowing what he was doing.

GS
 
Synthetic stock is more durable, takes the use dished out by hunting. I have Rem. 700 PSS, .308 Win. -- this is the bench rest gun, "sniper" -- heavy as a boat anchor. Synthetic stock does what needs to be done. It's NOT "Tupparware." For field use I prefer the Win. Stainless Classic Mod. 70, in 30-06 Spfd. That one has a synthetic stock too.
 
"...between the SPS stainless, the XCR 2 and the CDL SF..." Difference is the fit and finish of the metal and the quality of the stock material. Plus the amount of time spent on QC. The SPS is an entry level hunting rifle. The other two are the same thing but with better fit/finish and stock material.
They all need a trigger job out of the box due to frivolous law suits.
Which model you opt for will depend on where you are and what you're doing. 7mm Mag suggests hunting. It wet a lot where you are? SS and synthetics are your friend in the wet. Wet can be dealt with non SS/synthetics, but not as easily. Otherwise, your budget makes the rules. The rest really makes no difference.
 
People have not been hunting with laminate for 500 years.

If you work with wood you know how much it moves. not alot is built with solid anymore.

Before you bring up all old time stuff, think of all the swollen and doors and binding drawers.
 
My 7mm RM is a Win M70 Extreme Weather, which is SS, fluted barrel, and bedded in a Bell & Carlson Medalist (full bedding block) stock. 3/4 MOA shooter with Fed Premium Trophy Bonded Tip 160 gr hunting ammo. A bit better with my handloads using AccuBonds and Barnes TTSXs.

Now my go-to big game rifle is a Rem 700 XCR II in .375 H&H Mag that I bedded and free-floated in a B&C Medalist Sporter stock in Weatherby configuration, replaced the trigger with a Timney and added both 1.5-6x24 and 3-9x40 scopes in Leupy Quick Release rings and bases. This bad boy is weather-proof and shoots to 3/4 MOA with Nosler Trophy Grade using 160 gr AccuBond. I built it for Alaska but it's a fine elk rifle for the lower 48.

I'm very happy with both and would unhesitatingly recommend either. I have some wood/blue rifles. I love shooting them but only hunt with a Ruger 77RSI in wood/stainless. The stock damage inflicted on it reminds me of good days spent with nature.

You won't go wrong with any of your choices but I think you'll end up with a stiffer stock than those on the SPS and XCR II.

Harry
 
Thanks for all the helpful comments! It's definitely interesting to get another perspective on this.
 
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