Remington Cylinder Pin

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Shultzhaus

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I did not want to hyjack the debate on Rem V Colt issue, but I did read a statement that the Rem cylinder pin has no "annular" grooves in it to hold lubricant, and to prevent binding from fouling. Why not turn a few grooves in a Rem pin to duplicate the Colt feature? I have a machine lathe, and will try this. Can't try the idea, until the weather breaks here, and the range becomes usable again. Maybe one of you desert creatures could do this sooner. The worst could happen, is buying a new pin. Don't use a sharp pointed threading bit, use a slightly rounded nose bit, and keep it shallow, so as not to create a breaking point.
 
Well, the pin is also substantially smaller than the Colt arbor, which means less surface area, so the idea might have some merit but possibly only marginally so.
 
Actually the worst that could happen is the pin could break during a shot, causing the fired chamber to misalign with the barrel and the fired round to fracture and damage the frame/barrel/cylinder/shooter.

There's very little metal in that pin; cutting grooves in it seems a bit dangerous.
 
You don't need to cut grooves in your clyinder pin...it's been tried. The Rems are made to spin on like smooth surfaces. All you need to do is make the Lube Pills I told about from my "Dang I'm Broke Lube Pills Recipe or bring a Visine bottle of water and squirt the cly. pin at the cylinder and keep shootin' ... "you gotta be a Rem Indian to know these things"... :O)

SG
 
Lube pills are good. Also, try the vegetable spray PAM. Works for me.
 
Use a little bore butter or wonder lube smeared on the pin [or,3 in1 oil if you dont have either of the afore mentioned handy] that will work wonders. The lube prevents any blow by finding it's way back to the cylinder pin.With the Colt there's grooves to hold the lube,and when that breaks down to carry away the fouling,and that works well.With the Remingtons there's a more precise fit in order to keep the fouling out in the first place,which also works well.Remember,lube is our friend.
 
You dont need a lathe to cut grooves in your cylender pin, just get a die and thread it! I've seen a few guys do this to hold lube. Myself, I dont worry about it, I just keep'r clean.
 
Well it's nothing new. I knew shooters that grooved or threaded the basepin back in the 1950's on their original revolvers. Depending on what you use for lubricant, it may help a little, but not a whole lot. I was trained to reload the cylinder, pull out the cylinder pin, remove the cylinder, and wipe it and the pin clean (try disposable wipes) put the cylinder back with the pin, and then cap the nipples. I've gone out for a whole afternoon of shooting with no problems. ;)
 
I just keep a small plastic squeeze bottle of oil (olive or Ballistol) and between stages or each time I have charged up the cylinder I merely put one drop of oil onto the front of the cylinder where it contacts the frame and jiggle & twirl the cylinder while pointing the gun upwards to work the oil down onto the cylinder pin. works like a charm and takes just a few seconds. No removal or wipe down required.
 
OK - It was just a passing thought. I also use a little Ballistol on the pin, after I pull the pin, and wipe it, after maybe 4 loads. It never hurts to stir up a little debate. Always brings out something not known before.
 
In the next blockbuster Western movie we will see the hero slide back into the shadows, and reach for his plastic squeeze bottle... :neener: :D
 
Like I said, I've seen peope thread it to hold lube. It doesnt weaken the pin, but I dont really see any advantage. I just brush it with a wet tooth brush when I reload it.
 
I've seen peope thread it to hold lube. It doesnt weaken the pin
Would you care to explain why removing material from the cross section doesn't result in weakening the pin. Seems like kind of a violation of the laws of physics. I believe the only way to get equivalent strength with a smaller cross section is to increase the modulus of the material. Or do I have that wrong?
 
Would you care to explain why removing material from the cross section doesn't result in weakening the pin. Seems like kind of a violation of the laws of physics. I believe the only way to get equivalent strength with a smaller cross section is to increase the modulus of the material. Or do I have that wrong?

Obviously removing martial well change the structural integrity of the cylinder pin. Unlike a open top arbor, the Remington cylinder base pin see's very little stress. Adding a grease groove should have no ill effect on the normal operation of the revolver.

Back to the OP, I think your idea would work. Cut a shallow, round radius with the coarsest thread that you set on your lathe.
If you have a very small boring head you could cut the cylinder.
 
Just a thought or two. I own a remi and each time I load it I take a moment to use a pre-lubed patch to clean the pin. Only takes a few moments, We all knew this was an issue on remi's before we got them. Its just like the colts with spends caps and hang ups. They all are state of the art for that time period. Maybe those things, the smell of burned Black powder and each the the revolvers own "issues", for Me its all part of the attraction to the sport. If one wants a firearm that works 1st time every time, their for sale everywhere here in the states and yes the work so very well but then then again they also lack the charm as well.
 
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The Remington cylinder can be removed easily and the pin cleaned as needed. Doing that with the Colt requires disassembling the gun.

I don't see a problem.

Jim
 
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