Remington Main Spring

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ottsm

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I have an original Remington that I shoot once in awhile. The big difference I notice is it takes a lot of pull to cock the main spring. I'm just wondering if anyone has shot an original and noticed this also? Or is it just the example I have and perhaps variations in quality for that time period of early manufacturing.
 
My original Remington New Model .44 has a mainspring like a bear trap.
 
It may help if you check the roller on the hammer that it isn't seized up or flat spotted, and put a dab of lubriplate on the spring.
 
Yes, there is an adjustment screw near the bottom inside of the grip frame. Some people say they notice no difference when they try to adjust the mainspring but on my two Pietta's it made a big difference. YMMV.
 
It's been my experience that they are all very heavy. You'll also notice that it gets heavier as you pull the hammer to full cock. Most of it may be needed for shooting cap and ball but I would think you could lighten it somewhat. I have one that will get a conversion in .45 Colt soon and already have the spring tuned for it. I can adjust more tension if needed with the adj. screw. The hammer pull is very light and constant all the way through. It looks like it may rival my Dragoons . . . . . . . . . . . NAAAAAAAAH !!!!! But is does feeeeel good!!

I would get a new spring, save the orig. , and get it like you want it.


45 Dragoon
 
I have an original New Model Police and it is as easy as my Ruger Single Six.Some of the repro pieces I have are stiff some light.

Some of the reproductions main spring adjusting screw does not touch the spring at all. The Italians didn't locate it where it would do any good ,so all in or all out makes no difference.
 
You can drop in a Colt SAA/'51/'60 mainspring in and it will have a beautiful pull afterwards. You may need to slightly shorten the length if it rubs on the back of the hammer. In fact, I've had Remmies whose mainsprings rubbed on the back of the hammer and were much improved when shortend a tad.
 
Hellgate, you might try a hammer stop on a Remy too. Picked up an 1875 today just to check and sure enough, the hand was under pressure when holding the hammer back. Gonna put one in mine as soon as my "konversion" gets here !!! (course, I put um in all other S.A.'s anyway )



45 Dragoon
 
Dragoon,
Thanks for the reminder. I think I'll try to fix up my two Remington Navies that have a lot of hammer over travel.
 
Remingtons are known for strong springs, I guess it guarentees ignition every shot
I know both my '58's aretough but you can still do it withthe shooting thumb. There just won't and shouldnt!) be any fanning with these! I tried running the screw at various places and all it ever did was gibe a real sloppy and slow let-off when ya set it light, I jst set em almost flush with the front strap and all is well.
They sure are some fine shooters! I especally like the 4 5/8 short Sherriffs model! Quick handling and easier to draw, Accuracy dosen't seem to sufer at all.
Piettia did a good job with the short model
I like my 36cal revolvers , but there is just something "Proper" about the .452! It's a big revolver capable of handling heavy charges so why not enjoy em?
BPDave
 
Is it actually an adjusting screw, or is it a strain screw like in a Smith and Wesson revolver.

45 Dragoon, what is this hammer stop of which you speak?
Where can I get one?
What exactly does it do?
 
In both original Remington cap & ball revolvers and modern Smith & Wesson hand ejectors - as well as earlier models, the mainspring strain screw is not intended to be use to adjust tension. They're sole purpose is to allow the spring to flatten and ease so that they can be removed when the revolvers are disassembled.

When the screw is correctly tightened it causes the spring to bow, and when shortened or not fully tightened so that the bow is changed, inconsistent ignition or even a bent or broken spring can result.

Most early revolvers had heavy mainsprings to insure ignition, and as as a result earned the nickname thumb busters. To ease the tension file some metal off of each side of the spring, while leaving it full-width at the bottom. In doing so go slow and check often. :uhoh:
 
Jaymo, you can install a set screw ( Colt style S.A.'s) on the trigger gaurd under the hammer (use some red thread locker). This gives the action a true stopping point and takes the stress off the hand, keeps the hand from over traveling which helps keep the over travel of the cylinder at bay (also called throw by). The hammer will push the main spring down and make contact with the set screw. I put stops in all my S.A.'s to save wear and tear on parts. Colts 1873's have a "stop" built into the action where the boss of the pin on the hand contacts the web of the hand passage. The "stopping point" on non-Colts is at full cock trigger engagement. At that moment, the hand should have the cyl. at battery (with no pressure) and the bolt should lock the cyl as well.

I have not put one on my newly acquired Remy yet but, I think you can install it on top of the lug of the trigger guard. My copy is a Pietta and I think there is room there. I'm waiting to put a 45 Colt Kirst Konverter in and will make adjustments then.


45 Dragoon
 
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