Remington model 11 help

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Flyboy73

Flyboy73

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Just picked up a Remington Model 11 at auction today. Its in really good shape.

Thought i would try her out. Cleaned around the chamber and the barrel looked good.

Poped in a remington 2 3/4 target load and it fired but did eject the empty shell. I pulled the handle back and it ejected. Put in 4 rounds and none of them would eject, so i basicly had a single shot gun.

This is my first semi auto shotgun, so need some help. Seems to me the bolt seems to retract a little harder then it should.

Does the gun just need a good cleaning? Or am i doing something wrong? Or is something wrong with the gun?

I took the Magazine cap off and removed the forend and barrel, but thats all the disassembly i did. I have been looking for some disassembly instructions on the net, with no luck. Tried searching for info on the Model 11 on here, but my searched keep timeing out.

So if someone could point me in the right direction i would appreciate it.


Brion
 
Model 11

I think the Remington Mod 11 is basically a licensed copy of the Browning Auto 5. Whatever troubleshooting info you can find on the Auto 5 would pertain to the Mod 11.
 
Sounds like the friction rings are set for heavy loads, Brion. Someone with an A-5 can tell you how to set this up.

HTH....
 
I would assume the fricton rings go over the main spring on the magazine tube.

I noticed that the mag tube and forend cap has a ball detent. I would assume then you adjust the cap for different loads.

Never touched the cap before i shot it. I cleaned as much as of the action as could would disassembly. Put it back togther and turned the Magazine cap unitl tight.

Anyone have info about adjusting the rings?

brion
 
The magazine cap does nothing to control cycling. You do want it tight though, otherwise the fore-end can crack.

A brief explaination of the recoil system on an Auto-5 type gun:

The Recoil Spring is that big spring around the magazine tube. The Friction Ring is a small steel ring with a concave side. The Friction Brake is a ring of brass, which has a black steel Compression Ring on it. The heavy and light loads setting is based on the placement of the Friction Ring, either under or on top of the recoil spring. The flat side of the Friction Ring must always face the recoil spring. As an example, if the gun is set up for light loads the arrangement of parts on the magazine tube should be Friction Ring, Recoil Spring, Friction Brake (with Compression Ring), Barrel.
Click to expand...

If you want further information Browning as the Auto-5 owner's manual in their support section.
 
Remington will send you a copy of the owners manual. You can request it on their site, or call and ask for one. Good to have.
The above post tells you how to set yours for the lighter loads. If you have a cutts compensator on it, a lot did, the setting is different still.
 
I had requested a manual from remington, but they don't have it online and will have to send me a copy. I printed off a copy of the auto-5 manual from Brownings website.

I moved the friction ring to the bottom of the recoil spring and it now functions fine.

Never thought to look at the Browning web site for a manual.

Thanks for the help.

Brion
 
friction rings

The Brass ring with a steel collar is always in front of the spring on the barrel lug!

For light loads 3 1/4 dram equivelent or less,

The steel ring with a concave on one side and flat on the other, can be:

In front of the spring concave rearward, brass ring resting on this,

OR

steel ring against the frame.

If it does not CYCLE with either of these, clean and very lightly oil the Magizine tube, you can always add a little more, but do not over do it!.

The steel ring concave forward helps the friction ring press harder on the mag tube slowing the barrel speed when firing heavey loads.

Light loads with out the friction ring at all, or heavey loads on the load setting, or even to much lubercant on the friction assembly.

ALLOWS THE BARREL TO CYCLE TO FAST, THAT IS IT SLAMS REARWARD TO FAST,

Which will shorten the life of the firearm!

If you are firing mixed loads, (to me anyway, and I learned the hardway) YOU are much better off using the heavey load setting and hand cycling the bolt for the light loads!

I hope this helps,

As I am an A5 man!
 
The Brass ring with a steel collar is always in front of the spring on the barrel lug!
Click to expand...

From
http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=6286

"The lightest setting for the Browning A5 (Rem 11) is meant for shotguns with a Cutts Compensator installed. The Cutts is an external choke combined with a recoil reducing cage. In the Cutts setting you remove the bronze ring entirely, and leave the steel ring in back of the recoil spring. (Why not sotre the bronze ring back there too? The bronze ring wold prevent the barrel from recoiling all the way back in its proper stroke.) The extra weight of the Cutts unit i only part of the reason you have to decrease friction. When the wad and shot leave the muzzle inside the cage, their recoil generating work is done. When the wad and shot strike the choke, they jerk the barrel forward. On any other shotgun the forward force would be imparted to the whole gun, dampening felt recoil. On the A5 the force is imparted to the barrel, decreasing its ability to cycle the action."
 
Some of you might appreciate this story, or maybe just be bored.

When I worked in a gun shop there were so many Browning A5s and Remington and Savage copies that I got pretty good at judging the position of the friction ring just by setting the butt on the floor and pushing down on the barrel.

One day an older gentleman came in with a Browning, saying that he wanted to shoot light loads but the gun didn't work. I did the barrel trick and knew right away the gun was set up for heavy loads. But as I did, the gun's owner was astonished. "I thought I saw that barrel move", he exclaimed. I told him it certainly had moved and gave a brief explanation of long recoil and how the A5 worked. The man had owned and hunted with that gun for over 30 years and never knew the barrel moved!

Jim
 
I only moved the steel ring per the brownings A5 manual. In the manual the steel ring is a friction ring and brass ring is refered to as a bronze friction ring piece.

So my gun is good to go according to the A5 Manual.

Brion
 
Jim, at least it was set heavy, just think what 30 years of high brass would do on the light setting?!?!?!?!

Brion, you should be fine. I just wanted to make the point that there were 3 settings for these guns. Mechanically they are the same. The only major differences that I can recall are the magazine cut-off swith (Browning has, Remingtons don't) and the ejector is different on the barrel extensions for the two makes.
Should be a good gun, I'd love to see some pics, as I'm a Model 11 fan.
 
Also looks like the A5 has a differnt safety, a push button instead of that sliding tab in fron the trigger. Thats at least what the A5 manual shows.

She worked like a charm, after moving the ring.

Brion
 
Ahh, you have an older M11, pre mid '20's. The early Brownings had a triger guard safety that was in the front strap of the trigger guard, push it forward, like yours, for OFF.
Remington went to the cross bolt in the mid 20's or so until end of production in 48.
 
Remington M/11

I used to have a Remington M/11 12 gauge. It had a 27 inch barrel including a Poly-choke. I burned my initials RCM enclosed inside an oblong circle, along with my birth date 3-12-48 on the stock under the buttplate. It was stolen Jan. 1969 along with a Rem. 700 ADL caliber 22-250. If you should find it, I would appreciate hearing from you (anyone).
 
I can't say i like the safety on it. Kinda a pain to use. Anyway to date how old it is?

Brion
 
Well found the remington factory notes on the remington soceity. My seriel number putes it made between july 30 and september 30 1922.


Think that pretty cool. I had no idea the gun was so old.

Brion
 
Browning A5 safeties

I have seen that early FN A5's have the safety described,

A little later they went to the safety thru the front of the trigger guard.

And finally in the back of the guard.

Love'em All, to me it's just an A5/M11, hump back thing, great guns.

Spend a few days thinking about it, and work watching TV, then when you are in the field it will be a natural as if you used it all the time, At least it was for me!
 
mod11.jpg


Here's one I have. Made around 1929, it has the crossbolt.
 
I know I'll raise an angry swarm of invective from JMB worshipers, but I hated my M-11 (which, by the way was in my opinion one of the ugliest shotguns I've ever seen), and that long recoil system, and got rid of it. Now I'm not saying it didn't work, but the friction ring shuffle, the noisy action and the aesthetically challenged squareback design didn't do it for me. I'll stick with my Model 12s...
 
Clipper

NO HARD feelings,

I have shot around enough reaaly great hunters, to understand that the HUMP Back is a love IT or hate it design.

I for one love it, and they have done some good shooting for me.

My dad on the other hand is a shooter that just can't get along with one, they bruise him something feirce. But the gun that he loves, is no friend of mine, so it evens out, kinda.
 
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