Remove lube by waterboarding

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GLOOB

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Just wanted to share my latest discovery in removing case lube. I have tried 'em all, and this method seems to be all pros and no cons. Well, only one con.

What I do is take a baking dish and put a couple paper towels in the bottom. Then douse with bit of denatured alcohol. Then dump a couple handfuls of cases in there and shake around a bit. Dump out the cases and repeat as necessary. Works fast, removes tumbler dust, and the brass is essentially dry in 1 minute with no spotting.

The one downside is that a tiny bit of the solvent creeps inside of the case necks. Because it can't get wiped off by the paper towels, the residual lube is carried in there and can make the powder stick.

Oh, yeah. So, obviously, this won't work for removing inside the neck case lube!
 
Don't forget having adequate ventilation.

Use one of the dry lubricants, mica or graphite, for the neck. Then no oil in the case neck.
 
what are you useung for lube ? I use Redding case lube , I just wipe off with a damp rag after sizeing ,
 
I just tumble the loaded rounds to remove the lube. Very fast and easy and I never have tumbler dust on anything.

Personally, I do not like having greasy fingers when I am handling powder and primers. i tumble my cases before reloading to remove the lubricant.

But, it works either way.
 
No luck involved.

Just spray it on. Let dry for a few minutes. Cases size very easily and never stick. Slight residue wipes off easily with a rag. Non-greasy. One can is good for thousands of cases. It's inexpensive. Is there something else case lube should be doing that I'm missing?
 
Heck I use RCBS water soluble, wash them off in the sink, let them dry in the summer sun or in the oven at its lowest setting.

Never let brass get 400 F or more.
 
No luck involved.

Just spray it on. Let dry for a few minutes. Cases size very easily and never stick. Slight residue wipes off easily with a rag. Non-greasy. One can is good for thousands of cases. It's inexpensive. Is there something else case lube should be doing that I'm missing?

Glad you have luck with One Shot. I do not find it very thrifty. One bottle of RCBS Lube or one tin of Imperial sizing wax last me years. In 30 years of reloading, I am only on my third bottle of RCBS lube. And that includes the period before carbide pistol dies were common place.

A can of One Shot lasts me just a couple months.

I also find it quicker to dump the lubed case, regardless of the lubricant used, in the tumbler and separate the cases later. Of course, that does to count the actual time the tumbler is running. But, i have enough case in process that I am not running hand to mouth on my reloading.
 
That sounds like to much work. Fifteen minutes in the tumbler removes all the lube. Also doesn't require the purchase of any more products which cost money.


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Heck I use RCBS water soluble, wash them off in the sink, let them dry in the summer sun or in the oven at its lowest setting.

Never let brass get 400 F or more.
So what is the big issue with getting case lube off?
I also use water soluble lube, rinse in warm water and let dry.
Clean and dry inside and out.
 
So what is the big issue with getting case lube off?
I agree completly.

I don't worry about getting it off, until after the rounds are loaded.
Then I tumble them 15-20 minutes and they come out looking like factory loads, or maybe better.

The factorys do the same thing.

223reloads.jpg

If you just gotta get it off before that?
You used way too much!

I just keep handling them and wiping my oily hand on my pants, and then I let my wife worry about getting rid of the sizing lube on my pants.
Works for me!

BTW: The first reloading books I purchased, other then reloading manuals was Modern Reloading, by Major George C. Nonte in about 1972 or so.

In it, he told us how we should take an old bath towel out in the driveway, pour paint thinner on it, and tumble the ammo back and forth in it to remove the sizing & excess bullet lube.

That was a pre-tumbler age, and one which I do not miss much at all!!
Other then I was 28 years old then, and I'm not now.

rc
 
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I must be one of the few that actually likes One Shot. Other than on brass, I use it on the bolt of my Ruger Mk pistols instead of oil. The gunk doesn't build up as quickly. I shoot them at least two days a week and will go months without cleaning them.
 
what are you useung for lube ? I use Redding case lube , I just wipe off with a damp rag after sizeing

I use Frankford Arsenal spray lube. This is the similar to the solvent on a towel/rag method only with more solvent. The paper towel is completely saturated. My idea was to simulate a dunk in solvent without the whole issue of separating out the cases. Bonus that the cases dry quickly. Give it a shot!!
 
I dip a Q tip in Dillon lube (spray on type) and lube the inside necks and outer case, resize, and then tumble the cases for a few minutes. I never have issues with powder sicking in the necks. I used to rinse my cases off with acetone after resizing, but now I only do that occasionally for my bench rest loads. I'm kind of OCD with my reloading process.

I'm so OCD that I trim all my brass to precision lengths, even all my handgun brass, AL and revolver brass.

GS
 
I use Frankford Arsenal spray lube. This is the similar to the solvent on a towel/rag method only with more solvent. The paper towel is completely saturated. My idea was to simulate a dunk in solvent without the whole issue of separating out the cases. Bonus that the cases dry quickly. Give it a shot!!
well thanks for the tip, but with Redding lube there is no need to use any cleaner just wipe with a damp towel , back when I used Dillon lube your trick may have worked for me but no need now, however if I ever use up the half bottle I have left I'll try it then
 
I also like one shot, though I've had mixed results with 45-70. Sometimes it works great, other times not so great (so I pull out the Imperial). I'm pretty sure the difference is in the methods I've used to apply it. It seems like it needs pretty complete coverage. In any case, it must be allowed to completely dry or it will not work worth a darn. If in doubt, let it dry a little longer.

It's been over a year since I've produced 5.56 or 30-30, so my memory may be a bit fuzzy. I believe it worked well for them, but I seem to recall preferring Imperial for the 30-30.

I like it for handgun ammo on the progressive. It takes very little spray to help the press run a bit smoother.
 
I must be one of the few that actually likes One Shot. Other than on brass, I use it on the bolt of my Ruger Mk pistols instead of oil. The gunk doesn't build up as quickly. I shoot them at least two days a week and will go months without cleaning them.
Now that's an idea.

I use One shot for pistol rounds, just spray a little on a large batch to make them run through the carbide dies better. You can feel the difference.

The one time I tried it on .30-06 (yes I read the directions and let it dry first), this was the result.

5f3f2596.jpg
After buying the stuck case extractor I didn't feel like I saved any money. ;)

I use imperial sizing wax now, and tumble them clean.
 
Unless 30-06 is just that much harder resize than 223 and 308, spray lube does work. Maybe not One Shot. But Frankfort Arsenal does work just fine. Just DON'T follow the directions. Look up the baggie method.
 
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