Remove lube from case neck?

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Does tumbling sufficiently remove case lube from the inside of the case necks?

I just started loading 223. I'm spray lubing with Lee lube, diluted with water. Then I'm swabbing the inside of every 4th or 5th case neck while sizing.

If I throw them in the tumbler for 20-30 minutes, does that sufficiently remove case lube from the inside of the necks? How do you guys do it?

I want to avoid washing cases with water if possible.

Other: I bought 1k fired cases, and they're almost all military brass. But I tried priming them, and all but 1 in 100, the primers go in easy. Am I correct to assume someone before me has reamed the primer pockets, already? Or are crimped pockets not that big a deal?
 
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I'm swabbing the inside of every 4th or 5th case neck while sizing.
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I apply lube to the inside of the case neck with an RCBS brush. On FL sizing, the expander pulls out any excess lube. Ready to load after wiping off the outside lube. 643384.jpg The RCBS Case Neck Brush is designed to help reloaders clean dirt and powder residue from the inside of case necks while at the same time applying lubrication to ease the amount of force required during case neck expansion during the resizing process.

 
I tumble my cases overnight and it seams they are clean of about everything. Shorter time periods would require inspection. With new, clean media, probably no problem.

Military cases almost certainly have crimped primers. You have to remove the crimp. There are numerous methods to remove the crimp. i use either a case mouth chamfer tool or a crimp removal tool.

I have not had luck with a swaging tool, but I think the press I use is not up to the task.
 
I apply lube to the inside of the case neck with an RCBS brush. On FL sizing, the expander pulls out any excess lube. Ready to load after wiping off the outside lube.
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Kewl. I was wondering how progressive rifle reloading was possible. Thanks! I'm sure opinions vary on this particular point, and I think I'm going to stick with the tumble between sizing and priming, for now. But I may try some shortcuts in the future.
 
On a progressive, after the ammo is loaded, then wipe off the outside lube. You need a few shortcuts when burning up ammo in this.:D
joe1944usa
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Is there some particular reason why you are diluting the Lee spray on lube rather than using it as intended? Exposing the brass to water is something I don't like to do as well, but by adding water to the spray on lube you are defeating the purpose. Also I would think because you are adding water to it which most certainly alters it's ready to use within minutes feature, you run a risk of contaminating the powder charge by any that might drip down the inside of the case, might even possibly contaminate the primer.
 
Is there any reason to lube the inside of the neck at all? The real friction is on the outside is it not?

I have tested lubing and not lubing the inside of the neck and cant tell a difference with my lee dies.
 
i usually only lube every 5th casing when reloading. it works well for me and i tumble the brass for a few hours and it works great getting it all out. Havent had a problem with any of my brass yet.
 
Is there any reason to lube the inside of the neck at all?
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Depends on a few things. Neck wall thickness & FL die. Some FL dies will size the neck down more than needed. You can measure this by FL sizing without the expander button installed in the die. If the neck wall is on the maximum thickness side, this can make more drag on the expander. If its hard to pull the expander out of the neck, you better be using lube.
 
Yep, expanders are tough on brass. I use carbide expander balls where I can, or bushing dies. Even with the carbide expanders I often very lightly lube the necks with a nylon brush and RCBS Case Lube II. Very lightly. Cases are tumbled afterwards to remove lube from the outside of the cases, and it should get the tiny amount of lube from the necks.
 
Now that I think about it, I am sizing 7.62x39 with the .308 expander. So that is probably the reason it is easy on the neck.
 
I lightly lube the inside of the necks on every 2nd case with Imperial sizing wax applied with a Q tip. Then when I'm trimming, I wipe off the outside lube with a rag and I take off the inside lube with a clean Q tip. When I used to use the RCBS lube, it woked better to dip the Q tip in alcohol.

I don't think the small amount of lube inside the neck really hurts anything, but it does make the powder cling to the mouths when you're charging and seating. It just kind of bugs me is the reason I try to wipe it off.
 
Is there some particular reason why you are diluting the Lee spray on lube rather than using it as intended? Exposing the brass to water is something I don't like to do as well, but by adding water to the spray on lube you are defeating the purpose. Also I would think because you are adding water to it which most certainly alters it's ready to use within minutes feature, you run a risk of contaminating the powder charge by any that might drip down the inside of the case, might even possibly contaminate the primer.
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I'm not using Lee spray on lube. I didn't even know they made one. I'm using the stuff that comes in the tube. In the instructions that come with my Lee dies, there's a picture of Lee Lube in a tube, and it says:

"Lee Lube can be thinned with up to four parts water for easier application and greater economy. If thinned, let the case dry before sizing."

I diluted it in a spray bottle. I fill the Lee die box lid with 50 or so cases, spray a couple times, then they're good to go. I might try diluting with alcohol, next time, so it dries faster. But even when they're still wet, they size great. I just hope my die doesn't rust. :)

I don't think the small amount of lube inside the neck really hurts anything, but it does make the powder cling to the mouths
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The thing that worries me is neck tension (actually friction) and setback. I'm reloading for a semiauto. If case lube helps a case slide in a die, I assume it will also help a bullet unintentionally move in the case neck.
 
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Gloob,
I tried Richard Lee's suggestion of diluting the lube with alcohol and spraying it on. That's the one and only time I ever got a case stuck in my resizing die. I put a dab on my finger, spin the case, and use a q-tip on the inside of the neck. I don't bother cleaning the inside of the neck after resizing.
 
It's hopeless, you can't get the wet-lubes off, and powder sticks to them. I switched to a #2 pencil. when all the brass is standing up in your loading tray, draw a line around the inside of the neck with the pencil (easiest way is to hold the pencil in the brass, then rotate the brass). I do every other brass in my loading tray. Loading is smooth as glass (no grinding when it hits the expander ball), and powder doesn't stick to it (potentially causing over charges when you're measuring and trickling).

--edfardos
 
Thx for the tip. That's a good one.

I've just tried the Frankford Arsenal "oily" lube, and it makes sizing just a little bit easier when sprayed on, versus how I was using the Lee water-based lube. It's enough difference I think I'm going to use it for now. So I guess I'll be adding a water/detergent rinse, after all. At least until I find a better lube, because this stuff is hard to remove.
 
Does someone make a powder thru expander die for the 223? One that goes inside the neck? My Dillon does for pistol like 45, 44, shown on the left, but the 223 is outside like shown on the right, different. How about Lee's powder thru expander for 223? rifle_and_pistol_funnels_m.jpg After rethinking it, the hole would be to small in the 223 maybe?
 
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Does someone make a powder thru expander die for the 223?
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I could make you one. It would work great with ball powder, and should do fine with some of the finer stick powders, but the opening is going to be pretty small. AC
 
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