removing a small choil and adding jimping
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PowderMonkey
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Make sure to tension the rotary girder and put a few turns on the khnect-a-ga-zoink while you are at it. ; )
I'm guessing this is like your BK14... I had to Google it...
With the finish that is on there, I wouldn't want to start cutting anything off unless you plan on recoating. 1095 is gonna rust if left exposed, but as for the "how" to do it. Just be careful not to get the blade too hot and you should be ok with doing the work. I think the upper temp limit is about 300F-350F before you start to affect the hardness/temper... so if you can't hold it barehanded, its too hot...
Dremel makes some carbide milling-type bits that should cut the jimping
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=9901
With the finish that is on there, I wouldn't want to start cutting anything off unless you plan on recoating. 1095 is gonna rust if left exposed, but as for the "how" to do it. Just be careful not to get the blade too hot and you should be ok with doing the work. I think the upper temp limit is about 300F-350F before you start to affect the hardness/temper... so if you can't hold it barehanded, its too hot...
Dremel makes some carbide milling-type bits that should cut the jimping
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=9901
What "small choil"?
kingpin008
Member
Took the words right outta my mouth!
10mm Mike
Member
I used the high speed cutting wheel on the dremel to cut some jimping. it was really easy. just go slow and be careful. also, i found (for me at least) that it is easier to hold the dremel secure in one hand, and take the knife to the dremel with the other hand, instead of holding the knife steady and taking the dremel to the knife. ymmv of course.
Thanks for the tips. I already removed the ugly black finish and forced a patina. I am now going to try the jimping - how hard can it be?
HSO, see the choil I mentioned, below. It is just big enough to catch in fabric with back-cut type motions (tip up, edge in), and really makes the knife less than viable for SD uses.
HSO, see the choil I mentioned, below. It is just big enough to catch in fabric with back-cut type motions (tip up, edge in), and really makes the knife less than viable for SD uses.
PowderMonkey
Member
Funny how that have ignored three of us who obviously have no idea what these made up words mean - they won't even have mercy on our poor ignorant souls and bestow upon an a quicky definition or two...Took the words right outta my mouth!
I jimp your choil and raise you a patina. ; ) lol.
Jimping is texturing to aid the grip, usually where a thumb (but sometimes index finger) would go, a series of ridges most often: |||||| each ridge perpendicular to the spine (the spine is the dull, thick portion of the actual blade, opposite the cutting edge) of the knife.
A choil is a gap between the guard or pivot and the start of the bevel (the bevel is the cutting edge). The choil pictured above (southwest of the BK&T logo and just above my cast iron skillet) is presumably there to make sharpening by hand easier, but a larger choil can allow one to "choke up" one's grip, like the spyderco kopa pictured here (http://img5.imageshack.us/i/img14500.jpg/sr=1) which actually has a large, and small, choil.
The reason I want to remove my choil is because in doing pulling cuts with fabric involved, it pulls the fabric in and catches it, which prevents effective cutting using the whole edge.
A patina is a natural finish caused by oxidation, somewhere between rust and gun bluing. High carbon steels patina naturally in response to acids and so some people force patinas, which then acts as a finish of sorts on rust-prone steels (like 1095 and tool steels) and lends a blue-gray color.
A choil is a gap between the guard or pivot and the start of the bevel (the bevel is the cutting edge). The choil pictured above (southwest of the BK&T logo and just above my cast iron skillet) is presumably there to make sharpening by hand easier, but a larger choil can allow one to "choke up" one's grip, like the spyderco kopa pictured here (http://img5.imageshack.us/i/img14500.jpg/sr=1) which actually has a large, and small, choil.
The reason I want to remove my choil is because in doing pulling cuts with fabric involved, it pulls the fabric in and catches it, which prevents effective cutting using the whole edge.
A patina is a natural finish caused by oxidation, somewhere between rust and gun bluing. High carbon steels patina naturally in response to acids and so some people force patinas, which then acts as a finish of sorts on rust-prone steels (like 1095 and tool steels) and lends a blue-gray color.
Gordon
Member
Jimping is usually done to the back spine of the blade. A place for your thumb to choke up on and some say it make the spine more flexible or some such mumbo jumbo.
Eric Draven
Member
You could also round out the choiled area at the rear of the blade edge so it will slide thru easier...and not catch clothing.
jimping is easy but use a vise to hold the knife if youre gonna use a dremel or similar tool...or use a chainsaw file if you wanna take it nice and slow. I can give you tips on that kinda thing if you really need it, or you can just send it to me and I'll do it for a small nominal fee.
jimping is easy but use a vise to hold the knife if youre gonna use a dremel or similar tool...or use a chainsaw file if you wanna take it nice and slow. I can give you tips on that kinda thing if you really need it, or you can just send it to me and I'll do it for a small nominal fee.
PowderMonkey
Member
Thanks for the explainations guys love picking up some new info. I truely have never heard any of those three words before - thanks again!
CoastieShep
Member
Just be careful with that dremel carbide bit. I used one once on a knife and it made millions of tiny needles out of the knife. I was pulling them out of my fingers for days. Maybe it was just my screw up by using it wrong, but I don't know. Either way, it did remove a lot of metal, fast.
The "small choil"is classically known as a "notch".
Using a triangular file would provide better control and allow you to start your cuts to give the powered mangler a start.
Using a triangular file would provide better control and allow you to start your cuts to give the powered mangler a start.
10mm Mike
Member
Do you really think a file could work? I tried using some files on a few different knives... I could have been there all night and I dont think I would have made so much as a scratch.
I did, however, successfully use the edge of a coarse sharpening stone to create a small choil on a knife.
I did, however, successfully use the edge of a coarse sharpening stone to create a small choil on a knife.
I just grabbed a nice Italian triangular file from Lee Valley so I will let you guys know. My freehand dremel jimping isn't super pretty, but it is at least in the correct plane if not quite evenly spaced...
I ordered some more BK14s, they are just too good a deal at 30.00 not to have a few extras.
I ordered some more BK14s, they are just too good a deal at 30.00 not to have a few extras.
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