Removing case lube and a Garand question

[DVDTracker]

I recently started reloading the .30-06 brass I had laying around for my Garand. I lubed up my cases, ran about 300 rounds through my 650 and everything went great. When I was finished, I just rolled the rounds in a towel to get off the bulk of the lube. It did a fair job but the cases still had a bit left on them.

I'm sure this has been asked before... Do I need to remove all the case lube? If so, what's the best way to do it?

Second question(s)... These were 150gr soft-point rounds as that's all the reloading store had at the time and they are just for plinking. Anyway, I put 50-60 rounds through my M1 to make sure the load was kosher. There were a couple rounds that seemed to get stuck on the soft-point. Do Garands have issues feeding soft-point ammo?

Would there be a big difference in loads between a 147gr FMJ and a 150gr SP round? The batch I loaded was using 47.5gr of IMR 4895 with CCI primers. Except for the two with feed problems, they worked great.

This is my first time reloading rifle cartridges. Any feedback you can give would be welcome. Thanks!

 

[30Cal]

As long as the lube doesn't tend to collect grit and your cases aren't coming out of the rifle with oil dimples on them, they're probably ok. Some folks tumble after sizing, I wipe them down w/ a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

I don't have experience with anything but FMJ and match hollowpoints. You might tinker w/ OAL to get them to maybe feed better. Seating them to the bullet cannelure (if there is one) isn't necessarily the best for reliability or accuracy.

You can use load data for 147grs, 150 or 155gr bullets interchangably. In fact, the Sierra CDROM lists them together, I believe. Make sure you stick with Garand approved powders (the usual suspects: 4064, 4895, etc). Slower powders can and will bend your oprod (bend it more than it is supposed to be that is).

Ty

 

[DVDTracker]

Thank you sir! These SP bullets have a cannelure, but I'll double-check my OAL against some milsurp FMJ ball that I have here.

 

[Poodleshooter]

OAL's generally going to be much longer with FMJ than with SP of the same weight. Loading an SP to FMJ OAL will sometime barely keep the SP in the case neck. I generally load them to the top or bottom of the cannelure. You'll see pressure differences of course,but that's why you reduce powder charges by 10% when developing loads. Most bullet manufacturers will give OAL's for their load data and bullets.
Oil based lube can be bad, but most spray on lubes and Lee "rub on" lube are water based, and won't hurt primers or powder.

 

[outdoorman63]

primers

which cci primers did you use? the special ones or the large rifle? am getting ready to start loading for my garand and was wondering

 

[Khornet]

I use standard CCI large rifle primers

and also Federal standard, Magnum (for ball powders) and Gold Match primers, as well as Winchester. All work fine. I really don't think you need special 'hard' or 'milspec' primers for M1 IF you make sure to load properly both at the bench and on the range. See post above re: M1 loading.

 

[Steve in PA]

Been using CCI primers as well, since I started reloading from the Garand. Over 1,500 rounds reloaded and fired.....no problems with the primers.

I also use the RCBS lube and pad that came with my Rock Chucker kit.

 

[Sunray]

Clean it off with a cloth and a bit of solvent while watching TV. Regular large rifle primers are all you need. Mine feeds soft points with no fuss. 180's though. Follow your manual for max OAL and be sure your cases are trimmed if they need it.