Removing dime sized patch of rust from rifle harrel

[orpington]

95 to 98 % firearm, otherwise, with, very sadly, this patch of rust.

I will post before and after photographs once I have the rifle.


What penetrating oil, such as machine oil, Kroil, Ballistol, etc works best and how much contact time before using a pre 1982 penny to remove rust spot?

 

[1976B.L.Johns.]

using a pre 1982 penny to remove rust spot?

I don't know about the penny...
Why pre '82?

I tried the penny trick. (Pre '64)
Didn't work for me.

Used 0000 steel wool.
With oil. Any oil. Just a lubricant.
Any oil except olive oil.
It upsets Popeye!

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

The penny thing has never really worked for me either- generally 0000 steel wool has given me the best results, but sometimes Ill use a dremel with a tiny brass wire brush or buffing wheel and rouge/chrome polish. It really depends on the spot and how deep the pitting, if any, is. Worst case, you may need to resort to Birchwood Casey rust converter or Naval Jelly.

 

[1976B.L.Johns.]

Take your time and be careful!

 

[orpington]

The reason for the pre 1982 penny is, as follows:

The penny used to be, prior to 1982, a variety of compositions consisting mainly of copper, the exception being 1943, when pennies were steel.

Penny (United States coin) - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

In October 1982, the penny became 97.5% zinc and 2.5% copper. A penny now is just copper plated zinc. Due to the two compositions of the penny in 1982, it’s best just to use a 1981 or earlier penny, with the exception of a 1943 minted penny.

In any event, the penny has been “copper free, since ‘83”.

 

[orpington]

Here’s the rust spot on the barrel, not the best photograph of it, however. I’m guessing I might have rested in a felt lined gun rack and the felt behind where the barrel rested in the rack became damp, and this rust spot formed due to contact with this over a long period of time. It’s just a guess, but really a shame as the rest of the rifle is at least 90%.

 

[Col. Harrumph]

Man that's a shame. I think if it were mine, I'd just shoot it and not look at the rust spot. Not to make light of your concern, but honestly, just enjoy the rifle!

 

[nettlle]

I have used 0000 steel wool lubed with oil. As long as one doesn't get carried away it won't harm the bluing. Yours looks a little bit more than surface rust. I have a revolver the same as your rifle and it's too far gone for me to do anything other than re blue.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

From what I can tell, there is a layer of scale over the pitting. You will have to chip that away, and then use either a small wire wheel or pin-point sand/media blaster to dig the rust out of the pits. Alternatively, you can try rust converter and a scotch-brite or chore-boy pad, finished by touching-up with cold blue.
In any event, it will still be visible, but at least wont get any worse.
Nice rifle, good luck!

 

[rangervoss]

Your rust has pitted into the metal. Any removal of the rust will result in bare metal and look worse (in my opinion). If you keep it oiled that will keep it from getting worse but there really is not much else you can do other than superficial methods of cold blue

 

[nettlle]

Just be careful. Sometimes the repair can look worse than what's already not so bad. Been there and done that.

 

[4v50 Gary]

I'd use a nickel and coconut oil. Steel wool is abrasive and will burnish the metal and does so at the expense of the blued areas around the rust. The nickel and coconut oil can be used to scrape the rust off amd won't harm the bluing around it. Then degrease the metal and touch up with cold blue to mask the rust spot. The cold blue only makes the formerly rusted area less noticeable and if you want it blended the entire object must be repolished and reblued.

 

[orpington]

I’ll know more once the rifle arrives. Savage Model 1899, 1/2 octagon barrel, with the tang sight. $830 shipped, plus FFL fees. I decided to take a gamble.

 

[NMexJim]

Sure would like to see a close up of that.

Depth of rust will determine how much barrel length will be involved. You don’t want to noticeably dish the barrel profile and may have to taper over more length of undamaged barrel to get a decent flat looking repair.

Matching blueing is the next hump.

OxophoBlue may be your best bet but understand that there probably will be some blue difference. A really good gunsmith who knows his blueing techniques might attempt a small repair, but most would want to repair the area and then reblue the barrel.

I’ve had good success with Oxpho. Brownell’s used to be good at working with a guy to help him get the best product for good results. Might be worth the cost of a phone call.

 

[Steve in Allentown]

Another possibility for removing rust is Otis bronze cleaning brushes. You can find them at Amazon for $12 for a package of ten. I use them to remove rust from old, nasty, never cared for rifles and shotguns.

 

[Kp321]

The Big 45 gun scrubbing pads work as good or better than steel wool. Soak the spot with Kroil a few days before scrubbing. After the rust is gone, degrease and blue with Oxpho Blue. It will always show but will look much better.

 

[orpington]

I’m inclined to get rid of the rust but any blued product is probably not of interest. Hopefully the area dulls with time.

 

[doubleh]

Blowing the picture up as large as I can on my 15.5" screen makes it become blurry but it appears to be a rather nasty spot of rust and removing it will get pretty deep into the metal. Removing oxygen will stop the rust. Oil will slow it down, wax will slow it more. Although I have never had something bad enough to try this I will suggest something anyway. Clean it as well as you can without damaging the bluing around it with dry 0000 steel wool. Apply lacquer thinner several times and blow each application out with compressed air to make sure it is completely free of any oil or loose rust. Then apply diluted clear lacquer letting each application dry before the next until it is covered. Q-tip should work for application. It won't look perfect but should stop the rust from from growing. Use paste was in the future for a protectant instead of oil as it won't soften the lacquer. Otherwise remove the rust, use oxpho blue to refinish, and live with the pits..

 

[orpington]

I’m very happy with this rifle, 1/2 octagon Savage 1899 shipped 1901. $830 shipped, here’s where we are at now after soaking with Kroil and using a 1957 Wheat Cent penny to improve. Now soaking with Ballistol. First photograph is the “before” shot and not as bad as seller depicted.

 

[orpington]

This is where I think I’ll leave this at. The photographs make it look far worse than it really is.

This “lesion” and this being approximately 34” from the points of the crescent butt, where there is some potting on this otherwise beautiful rifle leads me to believe this was stored on a gun rack vertically and damp velvet at the base and where the area of concern is on the barrel simply caused erosion and minor pitting in these two areas.

 

[orpington]

The photographs make it look much less obtrusive than it really is. With Renaissance Wax it’s barely noticeable and wouldn’t be a concern if this rifle wasn’t otherwise in such good shape. On a more mundane rifle, it would be an incidental finding.

I’m okay as it now sets. There is one bleb in the upper left corner I’d like to make a little smoother. But I will leave as is and can live with it, too. Maybe more use of the 1957 penny? Or…???

A file or steel wool are not options.