Removing melted plastic bubble wrap from new rifle stock

V

VMass

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Not sure where to post this thread on "stock refinishing", so here goes.

I recently bought a new American Walnut stock set (stock, upper/lower hand guards & grip) for my AK-47. When the set arrived, I noticed that the plastic bubble wrap around the stock partially melted on the wood during the shipping period thanks to the recent heat wave (see photo attached). The retailer was great and told me to keep the damaged set and then sent a new replacement set. Unfortunately, the new undamaged stock is noticeably darker than the rest of the parts in either set.

I don't want to hassle the retailer again, so I have two questions:
1. Anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the plastic on the first stock without ruining the finish, or;
2. If I lightly sand the new undamaged stock, will that possibly "lighten" the walnut color to match the rest of the set?

Looking forward to any constructive advice. Thanks in advance.

IMG_3810.jpeg
 
I'd start with something mild, like Ballistol, Murphy's soap, or WD-40. I've personally had success in a similar situation with Ballistol, a rag, and patience. The advice about a hair dryer is probably good too; I once saw someone remove packing plastic residue from a piece of furniture using paper towels and a clothes iron.

As for the other stock, in my experience once you start sanding something you might as well just plan on refinishing it. Most likely you will have to sand entirely through any protective coating and into the stained wood itself before you can get to the color you want, and then you'll probably need to go through all the steps of finishing with progressive grits, whiskering, and sealing.
 
.38 Special said:
I'd start with something mild, like Ballistol, Murphy's soap, or WD-40. I've personally had success in a similar situation with Ballistol, a rag, and patience. The advice about a hair dryer is probably good too; I once saw someone remove packing plastic residue from a piece of furniture using paper towels and a clothes iron.

As for the other stock, in my experience once you start sanding something you might as well just plan on refinishing it. Most likely you will have to sand entirely through any protective coating and into the stained wood itself before you can get to the color you want, and then you'll probably need to go through all the steps of finishing with progressive grits, whiskering, and sealing.
Click to expand...
I agree about the sanding. I've refinished several stocks and once you've started, you have to plan on redoing the whole thing. And in this case, I may also have to redo the hand guards and grip to get some sort of match.
 
I would use the bubble wrap that came with the shipping and apply the hair dryer or low temp heat gun to the wrap and see what happens to get a sense of temp that causes it to turn to goo.
My guess would be that the heat turned the stock finish (varnish / min-wax /??) into a sticky goo that adhered to the plastic and not vice-versa. I would take the same heat application to just the inletted part of the buttstock that appears to have plastic adhered to it.......experiment on that sample that will not be exposed if it doesn't go well.
 
a5werkes said:
I would use the bubble wrap that came with the shipping and apply the hair dryer or low temp heat gun to the wrap and see what happens to get a sense of temp that causes it to turn to goo.
My guess would be that the heat turned the stock finish (varnish / min-wax /??) into a sticky goo that adhered to the plastic and not vice-versa. I would take the same heat application to just the inletted part of the buttstock that appears to have plastic adhered to it.......experiment on that sample that will not be exposed if it doesn't go well.
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Thanks. Thats exactly what I was thinking about applying heat. There's some of the bubble wrap on that portion of the stock that inserts into the AK receiver, so it will ultimately be hidden once installed. Good place to experiment with the hairdryer.
 
Outlaw75 said:
If it's residue and not a case of the actual varnish melting you might want to try naphtha (Rosonol lighter fluid). It's used by a lot of guitar makers to get crud off of lacquer finished guitar tops.
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Good call. I would also note that a good one direction stroke of the naptha rag and not intense scrubbing could be the best approach.
 
Outlaw75 said:
If it's residue and not a case of the actual varnish melting you might want to try naphtha (Rosonol lighter fluid). It's used by a lot of guitar makers to get crud off of lacquer finished guitar tops.
Click to expand...
I'm going to give this a shot (no pun intended). If it works, great. If not, I'll have some fuel for my Zippo. I'll take EMC45's suggestion and use a one direction stroke of the naptha rag.
 
Pretty nice walnut! Shame that happened.

Those look like oiled finishes. Can you confirm that? If I’m right, you might not have to completely strip the finish. Oil is pretty easy to repair. A call to the OEM to confirm this would be helpful.

Who is the OEM If I may ask?

As far as bothering them, that’s what they are there for - to be bothered. If you’re not happy with the finish match, they need to know that.

The problem here is that walnut wood occurs with a lot of different color, so to keep similar color, the wood needs to be similar - from the same chunk of wood.

I could be wrong, but I don’t feel like these pieces have been stained.

One option is to experiment with the wood under the butt plate. Using 400 grit paper, sand a small section. That might tell you a lot about the finish. The choice of repair finish would be next, and it would be helpful again to know what was used. Birchwood Casey is one option, Linspeed another. If you have an art supply, that’s the best place to get linseed oil. Boiled linseed or tung oil from a box store can be used. You could experiment with several to try and get a match.

This might help:

Gun Stock Refinishing Guide

Refinish your gun stocks and firearms with the right oil and methods to bring back the wood grain and nickel luster like it was new.
www.birchwoodcasey.com www.birchwoodcasey.com

There is a difference in steel wool used in gun refinishing and that from the big box, Gun refinishing wool has no rust proofing oil on it. Kinda of a moot point though. Plus steel wool tends to pull any grain filler out of the wood pores. Would be best to use sandpaper on an area this big.

Talk w/ the OEM. PM me if you need.
 
Guess I'll add my two cents: Doesn't look like plastic, rather it's off-gassing from the plastic bubble wrap, which slightly attacked and changed the surface texture of the wood finish. If so, scraping or whatever would be worthless.
 
If your after the satin finish look, I would try to knock the gloss off first. It would be nice to know what the original finish is. I use a wadded up brown paper sack for hand rub finish. The reason is it does not leave any particles behind. Paper is normally softer than the wood your working on. NO NOT USE ANY WITH COLOR PRINT, the color will transfer. I've used this for finishing epoxy, lacquer, urethane and oil finishes. An old cabinet maker taught me this decades ago. Very useful if spraying lacquers which can leave fine wiskers. Knocks them off without damaging the finish.
 
Outlaw75 said:
If it's residue and not a case of the actual varnish melting you might want to try naphtha (Rosonol lighter fluid). It's used by a lot of guitar makers to get crud off of lacquer finished guitar tops.
Click to expand...
First, I would like to thank everyone for their input. This won't be my last refinishing challenge, so all you advice will come in handy in the years to come.

Second, I want to thank you Outlaw75 for suggesting "Rosonol lighter fluid". I bought some, tried it and IT WORKED. It took off the round circles and only mildly dulled the finish. A little buffing with a clean cloth brought much of the original sheen back. I'm thrilled I can now avoid "refinishing" this stock and try to match color to the hand guards and grip.

Again - THANKS TO ALL for your great input.
 
VMass said:
First, I would like to thank everyone for their input. This won't be my last refinishing challenge, so all you advice will come in handy in the years to come.

Second, I want to thank you Outlaw75 for suggesting "Rosonol lighter fluid". I bought some, tried it and IT WORKED. It took off the round circles and only mildly dulled the finish. A little buffing with a clean cloth brought much of the original sheen back. I'm thrilled I can now avoid "refinishing" this stock and try to match color to the hand guards and grip.

Again - THANKS TO ALL for your great input.
Click to expand...
Glad it worked out for you. Naphtha is the best stuff I've ever seen for removing residue like that.
 
PB Blaster penetrating spray, and OOOO (4-ought) steel wool. It’ll take about two minutes!
Or, some Shooters Choice or other plastic active shotgun solvent. Again, about 2-minutes with a light brushing of 4-O steel wool.
 
Good save on your stock.

Naptha is great for getting softwood gummy "sheet" off our big bandsaw,and table saw blades.

It's also the reducer we use for catalyzed enamel machine paint.

It's evap rate makes it a very useful product.
 
VMass said:
I'm thrilled I can now avoid "refinishing" this stock and try to match color to the hand guards and grip.

Again - THANKS TO ALL for your great input.
Click to expand...
I've worked on furniture in the past staining and polishing, I would consider wet sanding with 2000 and 4000 grit paper. You will need to go to an auto zone or similar place for the sand paper. Afterward buff it with cheese cloth.
 
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