removing military primer crimp -- swage or ream?

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MarkVII

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Hello everyone -- I've got a bunch of military 5.56 brass where I need to remove the primer pocket crimp. I've tried a swager, but primers can still be a challenge to seat. Have also got a nice Lyman reamer, and primers seat easily if I use it.

My concern is the reamer removes brass. What's the experience of the group? Does the few brass shavings that get removed matter?

Thanks, Mark
 
No, the Lyman primer pocket reamer cannot not remove too much brass.
It will bottom out in the primer pocket and stop cutting before it can.

A drill bit or a 45 degree countersink I so often see recommended here can though!

rc
 
I like a swagger best because it puts the brass back where it came from instead of removing brass. In reality, it's all good so get the one you think is most productive and easy to use.
 
I hate the idea of removing brass. We reload 223/556 until the primer pockets get loose. Why start off by taking fortification out of the primer pockets? A reamer is for reaming and a swage for swaging.
 
I use a RCBS swager, but I also have the RCBS pocket reamer that I use when I have for a piece or two that I an having difficulties getting the primer in.

I prefer the RCBS reamer http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBSreg-TM-Military-Crimp-Remover/1584162.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3DRCBS%2Bcrimp%2Bremover%26x%3D0%26y%3D0%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts&Ntt=RCBS+crimp+remover&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products over the Lyman version. It prevents you from leaning the brass and oblonging the primer pocket.
 
You can fly through a mess of .223/5.56 brass with the Super Swage 600 in no time flat. If you shoot a lot it is worth the money IMO.
 
I was, and still am seriously eyeballing the Dillon 600. I found a less expensive alternative, The CH-4D, but may have the Dillon yet. One difference I have noticed on the "ream vs swag" debate is that reamers just ream, most every case the same way. With the Swag I've done, I notice the machine/device needs to be reset from time to time, as all brass, even same headstamp are not all the same. variations in years and lot #s of production can vary. This results in some of the brass not being processed as hard as others.

With the CH-4D, I get a few that crunch, inspection shows a mis seated primer...just punch it back out, quick twist or two with a lyman reamer, not the full on reaming...and they are good to go. I have never used the Dillon, but I understand there can be need to similarly readjust. This only happened with a few, maybe 5 out of 100.

Russellc
 
...I notice the machine/device needs to be reset from time to time, as all brass, even same headstamp are not all the same. variations in years and lot #s of production can vary. This results in some of the brass not being processed as hard as others.

Yep. What I do is set aside the few cases that need a length adjustment, then when I am done with the batch of brass I am working on, make the adjustment and run them thru.

Don
 
Yup, same here. But if it just barely too tight, a twist or two with the Lyman. I have usually already done the "set the loose ones aside" thing, but once they are done, and now I am repriming them, an occasional one is sticky enough it goofs up the primer, then I bring out the Lyman! Rather than undo the sizing die, re install the swag device, do this case, remove swag device, reinstall die, etc. This is when I start thinking about the Dillon unit!

russellc
 
I'm the odd one here then... I shelved my Dillon 600 swager years ago. Way too slow and to do it right you end up adjusting it for different types of cases (thicker/thinner web). I use a powered reamer bit (mine is on a Hornady case prep machine, but any would be the same). It cannot take out too much material, and it's very fast. It has the added (though unnecessary) benefit of cleaning out the primer pocket as well. For me, reaming is the way to go.
 
I will cull my cases out when doing precision work but for range blazing stuff I simply touch cases to the RCBS swage tip on their way to the rest of the process. If the case sits on the swage it gets tossed in the next pile. It it doesn't sit on the swage then of course I run it through the swage then toss it in the next pile.
 
Listen to BillyBob 44, this device sold by Dillon is worth every penny {dollars} it cost ! Once set up, its slicker than owl snot to use, don't need much of that either. :evil:
 
That's cool. I have had my shotgun hulls too loose with some primers. I had to resort to a dab of Elmer's glue on each primer to keep them in the hull. These were brand new rio hulls too!
 
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