Replacement Screws and Shims

[TwoNiner]

I just purchased a 6" 686 and I noticed that the side screws have been meddled with and appear to be burred from not using the correct size screw driver. I also noticed it has a good amount of cylinder play front/back (about 5 thousandths). Normally this would turn me off but the gun has an amazing trigger so I'd like to keep it in the stable if it shoots as good as I think it will.

I'd like to replace the cylinder release screw and the two side-plate screws. Does anyone have a link or know where to buy these? Will I have to order them from S&W?

Should I be worried about the cylinder play? How do you fix it (I've heard of shims or a sending to S&W for a new cylinder) or should I not even care?

Finally, after reading the revolver check-out thread I noticed that 2 of the 6 bores do not "carry up". That is, when I pull the hammer very slowly/moderately slowly (sometimes) I don't get the click before the last click when the hammer is cocked. It does, however, seat if I pull the hammer fast.

 

[Drail]

Numrich Arms may still have S&W parts or you can get them from S&W. The sideplate screws are all different and must go in the correct holes. (another thing that might be screwed up.) The forward screw is fitted to the yoke or may have a spring loaded plunger in it on newer models that won't need fitting. The flat head screw goes in the rearmost hole. The cylinder release "screw" is actuallly called a "nut". The shims are available from Power Custom (the maker) or Midway or Brownells. To reduce the endshake you drop one or two shims in the cylinder between the yoke and cylinder. Instructions should come with the shims. Don't try to reduce all play. About .006" is considered within spec when checked with cases in the cylinder and holding the cylinder back as far as it will go against the breechface. If you use empty fired cases make sure the primers are flush and have not backed out of the pocket which can give you a false reading. Check it with a feeler gauge and measure at 3 different places by rotating the cylinder. A little bit of play OK and you need to place a couple of drops of oil on both sides of the shims. Oiling them is important. If the timing is only off a little don't worry. Normally the inertial rotation of the cylinder will carry it to full lockup unless you actually shoot the gun by cocking it very slowly. Cock it normally SA and DA and see if you get lockup. The proper fix is to fit a new hand but it's probably not a job you want to do. If a previous owner has boogered the sideplate screws it would be a good idea to have the internals checked over by a knowledgeable smith because you don't know what else they might done inside it as far as stoning/filing etc. Any time I see boogered screws a warning flag goes up because they obviously were not skilled at working on guns. If the screws are only slightly burred chuck them in a drill and run it at slow to medium speed and clean up and polish the heads with a fine stone or 220/320/400 grit wet or dry. If you really want to get into all of this technical stuff buy the Kuhnhausen Shop Manual for S&W revolvers. It's worth every penny they charge and will save you lots of money and keep you out of trouble and shows detailed photos of how to do all of this stuff. Get it.

 

[Shimitup]

One question, what do fired cases have to do with endshake?

 

[niner4tango]

Failure to carry up could be the hand, ratchet or hammer (at least). This is a serious timing issue and needs to be fixed.

Not sure what you mean by cylinder play, but if it is end shake or rotational play with the trigger held back it's a sign that the revolver has had a lot of use.

Personally, I'd send it back to S&W. They may not be the "best" gunsmiths in the works, but they will make it function properly. I had the carry up issue with a model 29 I bought off the internet and it needed a new hammer. S&W did the work. Get your wallet out

 

[TwoNiner]

Thanks for the info Drail. I will call Midway about the screws and shims as it is difficult to locate what the exact parts are for this gun on their website.

The carry up is causing me concern because I do a lot of SA shooting and I don't want to inadvertently pull the hammer in SA slowly and not have the gun lock up. I have tried the carry up a few more times and I don't have to micro-slowly pull the hammer, eg. 5%. I'd say I can pull it 20% the speed I normally pull it at and it doesn't fully lock up. I can see a novice shooter (or weak fingered shooter) shooting this gun and occasionally pulling this slow.

I am going to try to test fire the gun tomorrow and I will check the cylinder in SA mode before I fire each round just for peace of mind.

I have to say I'm a bit discouraged about the amount of work I have had to put into my S&Ws. Perhaps I have had bad luck buying used ones, but the last one I bought--a model 36--I had to send back to S&W because I tcould spin the cylinder at at will and the one before it--a 686-1--I had to return to the original owner because of cylinder binding on the cylinder stop.

On the positive side I am learning a lot.

 

[TwoNiner]

edit

 

[45_auto]

Perhaps I have had bad luck buying used ones, but the last one I bought--a model 36--I had to send back to S&W because I tcould spin the cylinder at at will

You didn't consider that the free spinning cylinder could possibly be a problem before you bought it?

 

[TwoNiner]

I didn't thoroughly inspect the S&W 36. Well, I took a good look at it, but I never thought of checking to see if I could move the cylinder with a bit of force with my thumb/index finger when it was at full lockup. Live and learn I guess...