Replacing plastic cylinder on UniFlow
- Thread starter jski
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Bottom Gun
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RCBS just sent me a new one so I should have it soon. When I asked about removal, I was told it's a press fit. The lady suggested I tap the measure on the edge of my bench where the hopper joins the body to break it loose, then press the new hopper into place.
I can let you know for sure after my new hopper arrives.
I can let you know for sure after my new hopper arrives.
OK, the link to Dram Worx may have been worth the price of admission for today.
I still have my old Texan shotshell reloader and it has a damaged plastic powder tube. Have been wondering where I was going to find a replacement. Dram Worx may be a starting place.
Also has a damaged 6 point wad tube, but that can be worked around if you are careful. And that might also be a standard replacement?
I still have my old Texan shotshell reloader and it has a damaged plastic powder tube. Have been wondering where I was going to find a replacement. Dram Worx may be a starting place.
Also has a damaged 6 point wad tube, but that can be worked around if you are careful. And that might also be a standard replacement?
George P
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those are also available for some shotshell reloaders
sparkyv
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Well...
fastattack
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You'd think RCBS would have fixed that problem with the plastic by now.
Didn’t Bottom Gun just say RCBS is sending him a new replacement hopper? I think that would require removing the old hopper from the casting.
sparkyv
Member
Yup. Just seems like conflicting info from RCBS. Look at drawing in the section called "TO ASSEMBLE".
RCBS needs to get their story straight.
Damnit! The mouth for the Dram Worx hopper is just slightly too small for the UniFlow. Those cast parts probably vary in their outer diameter because of the nature of their casting process.
Time for an emery cloth flapwheel:
BTW, the plastic hopper cracked in multiple places when I tapped it with my rawhide hammer.
Time for an emery cloth flapwheel:
BTW, the plastic hopper cracked in multiple places when I tapped it with my rawhide hammer.
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Frulk
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I remember I read the OP's first post not long after he put it up. Didn't think much of it. Then he posted that darn pic and I thought..."Well, that's just..just...GOTTA HAVE IT!"
What the Little Dandy looked like before.
What it looks like now:
Came in the mail today...install required heating the base of the measure with a hair dryer, placing it in a padded vice and torqueing the plastic hopper off by hand. Hopper fits over base metal and stays on via 3 Allen head screws. Took about five minutes. Increased powder capacity by approx. 50% and lid is air tight.
JSKI...you're on notice. One more post like this for stuff I didn't know I needed but had to have and you're muted!
What the Little Dandy looked like before.
What it looks like now:
Came in the mail today...install required heating the base of the measure with a hair dryer, placing it in a padded vice and torqueing the plastic hopper off by hand. Hopper fits over base metal and stays on via 3 Allen head screws. Took about five minutes. Increased powder capacity by approx. 50% and lid is air tight.
JSKI...you're on notice. One more post like this for stuff I didn't know I needed but had to have and you're muted!
Obviously essential.
The Little Dandy is a nice, small powder measure that can be used hand held or it fits in tight places on presses such as Fulk's turret. If I remember correctly, RCBS used the Little Dandy on their in-line Green Machine progressive press from the 1980's although the powder measure pre-dated the Green Machine.
The base of the powder measure's casting is threaded 7/8"-14 so it can be mounted on a press.
The major disadvantage is the measure uses fixed cavity rotors for dispensing powders. Folks have come up with all sorts of ways to adjust the size of the cavity to dial in for a particular powder charge. There used to be a guy on the internet that made an adjustable cavity rotor for the Little Dandy but I'm not sure he is still in business. The rotors are running about $15 list price these days. They were $2.98 each when I bought my Little Dandy in 1980.
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Frulk
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CFULLGRAF (above) pretty much encapsulates what I wrote below....
The Little Dandy is primarily used as a pistol powder measure due to its limited capacity and ability to throw higher charge weights. In order to change a charge weight you need to replace and select the correct rotor. Rotors are easily removed via one screw.
Pros:
1. Simple to use
2. Well made...only one moving part.
3. Whether on a press or bench mount in most cases you can visually confirm by watching the powder stack that the charge dropped.
4. On a turret like mine the movement back and forth settles the powder stack and I get consistent throws.
5. Easy to unscrew from mount/press and empty.
6. In my experience the Dandy meters most powders well with larger flake powder (TB and Unique) resulting in some cutting.
Stock Little Dandy on the left/Pyrex Hopper modified on the right. I was wrong with my initial assessment of 50% increased capacity. It's easily 2.5 times over stock. The wider glass hopper does make inserting opposing dies a little more cramped. It is a minor inconvenience however compared to the airtight chamber and increased capacity.
Cons:
1. Rotors have a hole drilled into them. The size of the hole determines powder capacity. Since there is no powder adjustment on a rotor you have to purchase separate rotors for a specific charge you plan to throw. That can get expensive at approx $13 (+/-) a rotor.
If you have a favorite charge and only use a couple of powders then the LD may be for you. I started with a charge of 7.8 grains Unique and a Little Dandy for .45 Colt. Over the years I've expanded powders to include about 10 various ones and several other hand gun calibers...You could say I 'bought into' the Little Dandy over time.
Powder/Rotor chart provided by RCBS to determine what rotor is required for the charge you plan to throw. There may be a newer one out now.
I'm an obvious fan of them but for many other folks their MMV.
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Average Joe
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