Report on my first reloads.

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gonoles_1980

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I loaded 14 bullets
38 special
Speer 158gr LRN
1.152 Trim +/- .002
1.541 COAL +/- .002
3.5gr Win231

I was anal on the weighing and checked each case with a flashlight for powder levels.

Had some issues with my Lee Precision Auto-Primer initially, might be the three duds I had.

Not sure I did a perfect crimp, still have some lessons to work there.

I brought a box of Federal 158gr LRN's to compare against.

I had 11 good fires, 3 duds (the duds all have a primer indentation).

The 11 good fires were slightly less explosive than the federals.

All in all, I'm proud of my first effort, but I'm still a rookie and have a number of lessons learned.

Thanks alot for all the help I received on her. I spent time with some friends discussing who have been doing this a while, watched many a youtube video, and read every single line of instruction.

It's a good feeling knowing I can make my own bullets.
 
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Huh, that shouldnt be happening, what kind of primers are you using? For me, as long as the primers are pushed in far enough to be able to close the cylinder, they all go bang. how solid of a primer strike was it on the "duds"? Did you try to shoot them again?
 
They're CCI small pistol primers, I fired each one twice. They all have an indentation in them. It's possible they weren't pushed in far enough, I had an issue with my Lee Auto-Primer, I didn't have it put together correctly. I'm guessing that contributed to the primers not being pushed in all the way. That was one of my lesson's learned.

I was just happy to get off 11 good shots for my first time. Next time I will expect better.
 
checked each bullet with a flashlight for powder levels

Using the proper terminology will help newbies & oldsters understand any future posts.

Bullet = the projectile, the lead, or copper clad portion of a round that flies out when the firearm is fired.

Round = a completed or partially completed ammunition.

Case = the brass or nickel coated portion of a round.

So your post should have read:
I checked each round (or each case) with a flashlight for powder levels.

Please don't be offended, I'm not trying to flame, - just tryin to help :D


Here's a pic of a solid roll crimp (not too much, not too little)
 

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Sounds like you did OK. Be very concerned about "duds". Make sure you watch your target to be sure every bullet leaves your pistol, the last thing you ever want to do is pull the trigger with a "dud" or squib round bullet stuck in the barrel. Factory ammo will always be hotter than your own loads while you are working them up.
 
I would look at a hand prime or find someone to help you get the Lee auto prime set up. I have used over 80,000 CCI, 20,000 Win, and 5,000 Tula primers over the last 4 years without a single dud. I may have one Sunday at my match, but it will be a first. I always check my seating deph on my primers on the first couple when I start, and any that might look high. Most of my 38spl loads have the primer seated at .004-.006" below the head with a depth guage. I don't check evey round, but I do a visual on every round loaded.

As for your loads.... You don't have to match a factory round. Look for the most accurate round that is pleasant to shoot. I load my wife's .38 spl rounds with 3.7 gr of W231 which is a very soft shooting round that's extremly accurate in her S&W .357. She can clover leaf 3 rounds at 10 yards. Also by going light and accurate you will save money on powder.
 
Yeah it sounds like a primer seating or contamination problem. Try some sort of hand priming tool. For around $40 bucks you can get a lee auto prime, shell holder and a measuring caliper shipped to your door. The calipers are great for determining overall length and are just super useful for hand loading.
Check your primer depth visually and by touch. Also wear gloves when you handle primers. Hand primers work very well. Plus you can do it on the couch! (wear safely glasses) Actually yesterday I mounted my press on a sawhorse wile I sat on the couch watching the Stargate SG1 marathon on SciFi. I was just de-priming/sizing. Charging, priming and bullet seating requires a distraction free environment. Also I now need a PS90.
gonoles_1980 Have fun! In no time at all you will be making rounds that are better than anything you can buy in a store. And cheaper too!
 
I am using the lee hand primer...

I left out the "hand" part. I also spilled some of my primers, so it's possible they had some contamination. I looked at the three that didn't fire, they weren't seated quite as far as the ones that fired (difference was extremely slight). When I setup the primer, I didn't have it put together correctly and it took me three primers to realize it. I'm theorizing that is was those three that didn't fire. Once I got it setup correctly, I could feel the difference in them seating. I probably should have removed those first three from my batch before shooting, or marked them with a marker.

That is one more definitely quality check. I'm going to move up to 3.6gr on the next 20 bullets. I have to say, I enjoy making them, but I like doing things like this. I need to get back to making beer again after I retire in a few years :D
 
I load on a lee turret, but I really prefer to prime and size cases separate. As I throw a primed case in the, I flip it and run my finger over the case head... Very easy to feel a high riding primer. I only do this for 38spl because all the darn winchester cases are significantly harder to seat a primer in. I just did 2k this way the other day
 
I've never had a primer in a handload misfire... and that includes some old ones from the 70's that I salvaged from a falling down shed. You've got a seating or contamination issue that you need to deal with.
You can work out a correct roll crimp on a dummy round. Also, make sure you have consistent case length, give or take. Depending on your bullet, the cannelure, or whether you're using lead or jacketed bullets, you may have just a little forgiveness. But you may not... so at least sort them into groups of casings with the same case length. I never trim .38 Special... I just refuse to do it. But I do sort them into groups by case length and then slightly adjust my dies for the different groups.
 
Take a good look at a new primer. The interior is raised just a fraction above the cup. This anvil needs to get pushed down level to the cup when you seat the primer. Set the primed case on a flat surface. If it wobbles or tilts at all your primers are not seated deep enough.

Do not worry about the power of your reloads. Being able to make a custom tailored round is one of many advantages to reloading. My standard .38spl load is 2.1gr Bullseye pushing a 141gr cast wadcutter. A minimum load but a pleasure to shoot 200 rounds at the range. I have a 30-06 load that sounds and recoils like a .22lr.

Congratulations on your first working reloads. Welcome to the addiction.
 
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