Restoring my father's S&W Model 66 for Father's Day

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I don’t want to speak for .cheese., but when My dad was alive I found it real hard to find something to give him as a present because like me if he wanted it he bought it. Older people mostly have what they want already. I tell my kids to just get me a card. Even if this is .Cheese. hobby I’m sure his dad will be like what texagun said above -

I think what .cheese. is doing is a great idea. My oldest son took an old shotgun and refurbished and re-finished it and gave it to me and it is one of my most valued possessions just because he cared enough to do it for me. I think any father would feel proud to have his son do something like that for him.
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Majic I think this is the key -

it is one of my most valued possessions just because he cared enough to do it for me.
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.
 
If your dad is not a gun guy then why all this effort in something he obviously doesn't care for? Why not choose something that he holds dear to his heart? This project is for you not him as everything you are doing is what you like while just saying you know he will like it.
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A) Partially, I'm hoping it will cause him to gain interest in shooting. Also, I just think it will be nice to make his only gun look great.

B) It's not the only gift I'm getting him for father's day. My brother and myself also getting jointly getting him a nearly $400 new leather office chair because his is worn out.

On a sidenote, of the many responses to this thread, few of them actually have had information pertaining to the project at hand and/or answers to specific technical questions regarding it. Most responses seem to be criticisms of some sort. Some have questioned my competence to do this type of project. One or two have questioned my motives. A few have discouraged the project altogether. One or two were just downright uncalled for, and a few others were just entirely pointless. That's just an observation.

I'm really just looking for technical info pertaining to this project at this point. Granted, most of my questions have been answered, and I am grateful to those who have provided useful information. However, I must kindly ask that the negativity end, as the project is going forward. I love my father, and I wouldn't be doing this for father's day (amongst other things) if I didn't think he would enjoy it. I'm not so bored with life that I just randomly pick things to do to guns I don't own for no reason.

The only technical question still unanswered is what part number through Brownells or another supplier would have the plunger pin for the horizontal sight windage adjustment.

Thank you to whomever can answer the above question.
 
.cheese.

I bet your father will sit in the chair more than shoot, but I bet his revolver will be one of his most valued possessions just because you cared enough to do it for him.
 
I would like to think so. :)

I'm sure he'll enjoy the new chair. He's been wanting one for a while. I know he'll use it.

I hope he'll use the gun too. It's been so so long since he shot it at a range. To put it in perspective, I'm about to enter law school. The last time he shot it, I was a toddler.
 
If you go to this link and scroll down to the picture of the exploded view , below it is a parts list which will have the correct name for the part you want. Then call Smith & Wesson and tell them which part you want. I’m sure they will have what you need.

Accessories & Parts
Replacement parts and accessories for your Smith & Wesson firearm are available from your local Smith & Wesson Stocking Dealer, or directly from the Smith & Wesson Parts Department.
When ordering parts directly from the factory, please provide the following information:
Model Number
Dash Number
Serial Number
Approximate date of purchase
Part view Number (refer to diagram)
Complete Return Address
VISA/Discover/MasterCard Number and Expiration Date
For Foreign Orders Only, Fax Number or E-mail Address
1-800-331-0852 (USA)
Mon-Fri 8:00AM-8:00PM Eastern Time


http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/530103904/m/875107028/p/2

Here is Smith’s parts list -

http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson/upload/other/RevPartsList_Retail.pdf

Looks like this is the part you need from Smith - 11 071580000 $0.51 X REAR SIGHT PLUNGER

.
 
.cheese. said:
I told him just to not freak out if he notices it's missing from the safe, because I have it.
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Although he hasn't needed that gun for 20 years, I hope you didn't leave your Dad unarmed.

Put one of your J-Frames in there JIC until he gets his back.
 
Put one of your J-Frames in there JIC until he gets his back.
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I actually offered to do that.

He said that since I'm living in the house. armed with more guns and ammo than the military of most countries, he figures he'll be fine without his revolver for a few weeks.

I just told him the offer stands. He's welcome to a J-frame or a Glock in the meantime.

Bullet - Thanks!
 
Let us know how the 66 turns out. I was able to pick one up last year myself. A four inch 66-1 made in the early 80's. One of the last made that were pinned/recessed.

The satin finish on mine , especially on the trigger guard area , left a lot to be desired. With the Mother's Mag polish it did not take take long to even things out where the entire finish appears even and smooth.

Anyway , I am sure your father will be very pleased with your considerably efforts!
 
what do you guys think of this idea:

after I finish polishing everything, I take all the pieces over to one of those jewelry places that does ultrasonic cleaning. Have them put all the pieces in an ultrasonic bath to make sure that all pieces are clean of polishing media before I put a thin film of gun oil on them and reassemble.

?? Good idea? I'm already using the idea posted of rinsing in water and then using WD40 to displace the water... wiping it down thoroughly afterwards, but would it be a bad idea to get them all ultrasonically cleaned afterwards just to be 100% sure?
 
I run my grandfather clock movement through the dishwasher & re-oil it about every five years.

Works for me! :D

rcmodel
 
excuse a novice question but....

Polishing with mothers or flitz, are you polishing the internal parts for better smoother trigger pulls, or are you polishing the exterior for a gleaming gun?

If it is the exterior, how does that work on blued guns? Wouldn't that take the bluing off? Akodo
Sometimes very well and sometimes poorly. Somewhere I read that Flitz would not remove good blueing.....just rust (oxydation). That is not the case. I "cleaned" a Wather P88 with Flitz and it removed most of the blue. Other gun blueing, it did not bother. My advice, Spot test it first. If it doesn't remove bluing, it works great. Rub very lightly and very little. Pigpen
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what do you guys think of this idea:

after I finish polishing everything, I take all the pieces over to one of those jewelry places that does ultrasonic cleaning. Have them put all the pieces in an ultrasonic bath to make sure that all pieces are clean of polishing media before I put a thin film of gun oil on them and reassemble.
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Not necessary. Spray the internals out with Gun Scrubber or non-chlorinated brake cleaner, let the excess run out and dry, then apply a THIN coat of good gun oil on the internals. WD-40 is BAD for firearms. It is a water-displacer, but does not prevent rust and it will clog up the internals. It gets very gummy if left on the gun.
 
You can get a very good match to the original brushed finish on a stainless gun by using Scotch-Brite pads. Not the green ones that you see with the household cleansers at Wal-Mart, but the finer grades that they sell in woodworking shops. They grades are designated by color, with gray and white being the useful ones for guns. They work very similar to steel wool, without the problem of imbedding carbon steel in the stainless.

As has been said for the other methods, to use them, follow the original grain of the finish and go lightly.
 
Not necessary. Spray the internals out with Gun Scrubber or non-chlorinated brake cleaner, let the excess run out and dry, then apply a THIN coat of good gun oil on the internals. WD-40 is BAD for firearms. It is a water-displacer, but does not prevent rust and it will clog up the internals. It gets very gummy if left on the gun.
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I have plenty of B-C Gun Scrubber. I'll use that. Good idea.

You can get a very good match to the original brushed finish on a stainless gun by using Scotch-Brite pads. Not the green ones that you see with the household cleansers at Wal-Mart, but the finer grades that they sell in woodworking shops. They grades are designated by color, with gray and white being the useful ones for guns. They work very similar to steel wool, without the problem of imbedding carbon steel in the stainless.
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I'm thinking I'm going to do that for the rear sight assembly. It's a detachable strip of metal with the rear sight at the back (I am not sure if this is still the case for K-frames as I have only recently found a K-frame I'd buy - the new Model 610 - I'll probably get it when it shows up at the LGS). This way the rest of the gun would be mirror-finish, and the top strip would be satin both looking good and preventing excessive reflection/glare while shooting outdoors (assuming he ever does).

I think I'll polish it first to a mirror finish, then use the Scotch Brite pads to get that assembly all satin (I'll use a carbon steel brush on my dremel tool for the small screw heads (separately) as they're too small to do otherwise - I think). Not sure how I'm going to hold them still while doing that (maybe drill out small holes in some wood just deep enough to cover the threads and expose the head).

so, when are we going to get to see pics of this diamond in the rough?
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As soon as it's done I promise to post a pic. Midway sent an email, the grips are on the way. Brownells sent an email about the parts I ordered (I decided to get a few new springs for it as the old ones seem a little worn). Everything I need to finish should be here beginning of next week.

So far I have the cylinder done, the extractor rod (assembly) done (both halves), and the trigger done.

I've run into a slight snag. Polishing to a mirror finish exposes some of the minor scratches that were there and not visible with the satin finish. Do I just keep polishing to get them to disappear? They're not too noticeable, but I want to make this perfect.
 
Is this wrong:

I'm polishing everything to a mirror finish - that is visible with the gun assembled.

Anything that cannot be seen and is an internal working, I'm not polishing but am cleaning. I figure:

A) It would be pointless to polish internals
B) It might somehow damage them
C) A mirror finish won't retain oil as well as the rougher satin-like finish which is important for internals.

Am I wrong?
 
For almost any of the working parts, smoother is better.
Less wear, better feel to the action.

Don't worry, the lubricant will work just fine.
 
Is this wrong:

I'm polishing everything to a mirror finish - that is visible with the gun assembled.

Anything that cannot be seen and is an internal working, I'm not polishing but am cleaning. I figure:

A) It would be pointless to polish internals
B) It might somehow damage them
C) A mirror finish won't retain oil as well as the rougher satin-like finish which is important for internals.

Am I wrong?
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I would do it EXACTLY like you proposed above.
 
The hammer and trigger in model 66 revolvers were case hardened and then flash chromed. While it is unlikely you'd polish through the case hardning it is possible you might get through the very thin chrome plating. Then I suspect you'd be very disapointed with the results. Stick to polishing the frame & barrel and cylinder/yoke assembly. You can do the extractor rod, but the work would be mostly superfluous.
 
The hammer and trigger in model 66 revolvers were case hardened and then flash chromed.
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You sure they're flash chromed? They just look case hardened to me.

The cylinder release latch looks flash chromed though.
 
wowee.

The customized embroidered pistol case cost me $139 total. It's not done yet, but almost done. It has his initials and the S&W logo embroidered on both sides (took forever to find a place that had the S&W logo in their database of possible embroidery images).

The gun is coming along well. I decided not to polish the trigger or hammer, I'll just clean them really well with BC Lead Remover and then clean all internals with Gun Scrubber followed by a little Hoppes Elite oil before reassembly. Gun is looking awesome so far.

The rosewood grips came in and they look amazing, S&W inset logos and all.
 
Hey Cheese! How about some pics and an update?

Fathers day is past. Did you make the dead line?

Lets see that K frame. :)
Will
 
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