Revolver Double Action Trigger Pull

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Waveski

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I'm sure that this had been knocked around before , but here goes ---

What constitutes an acceptable range of trigger pull weight for a quality revolver? I know that there are other factors that go into what makes a "good trigger" , but setting those other factors aside , what do we want to see on that scale when measuring d.a.?

I've had time to work on some of my S&W revolvers lately ; I was eyeballing one of them today - totally stock , an older K frame - and I paused to give consideration to the concept of "If it ain't broke don't fix it!".

Input , please.
 
It should be low enough that you can use it.

There really isn't any standard or even suggested range. In fact I have absolutely no idea what the DA trigger pull is on any of the revolvers I've shot over the last half century or more. So far I haven't found any so heavy it was impossible for me to use.
 
So far I haven't found any so heavy it was impossible for me to use.

Ever shoot a Harrington Richardson Sportsman? Really makes the veins on the forearm stand out. Or , for that matter , a S&W model of 1902 , which has a leaf spring in the grip frame acting as a rebound spring.
 
Ever shoot a Harrington Richardson Sportsman? Really makes the veins on the forearm stand out. Or , for that matter , a S&W model of 1902 , which has a leaf spring in the grip frame acting as a rebound spring.
Yup. The H&R model that became the "Defender" IIRC is a hybrid between the Sportsman and the older sights of the Top Break. Mine isn't very bad. Now the rimfire 22 version did have a real trigger pull whether in the Sportsman or the 923. Kinda like the trigger on my Walther PPK/s 22.

H&R pre-model number or "Defender" name:
standard.jpg

H&R 923:
standard.jpg

Now my K22 had a superbly smooth but still pretty heavy trigger.
 
Pretty much every DA revolver can be improved after 5 or 6 hundred dry fires
That will smooth the engagement surfaces between the hammer and sear, maybe even the hand and the ejection star as well as the bolt. But it won't really affect end shake or head space issues.

Granted many pistolsmiths who perform "action jobs" on a S&W revolver won't address those areas, but they should. If the cylinder isn't correctly fitted to the crane, the drag will affect the trigger pull
 
A smooth, non-stacking 10 lbs DA and 3-ish lbs. SA and IMHO it’s a little slice of heaven.
:)

Stay safe.
 
Most stock S&W J frames seem to run from near 12# to almost 13#. The others seem to run 10.5# to 11.75#
Have worked on a few of mine and find that a 9.5-10 pound trigger feels pretty darn good as long as it's smooth
 
Smooth is about all you can hope for with the J-frames. When S&W shrunk the actions to fit in the smaller frame and added the coil spring, it really threw off the geometry of the action.

The Colt D-frame, the Ruger LCR, and now the Kimber K6, out of the box, have smoother actions than the S&W J-frame
 
The 17-2 I brought home a couple years ago was allegedly owned by a female shooter of some fame... I just can’t recall her name. It was her practice revolver according to the LGS owner who sold it for her estate.

That gun, and a new-to-me Model 48-4 both have a wonderful trigger in both DA and SA. I grabbed my Lyman gauge and averaged out five pulls in DA and SA each:

The 17-2:
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4B36D0C4-2B36-4883-AED1-DFD5697AA19D.jpeg

And the 48-4:

013202B8-95A1-46EB-9074-628299066AEE.jpeg

79B29B33-9115-4C0B-A5AB-C0A906D56FEF.jpeg

Both were lighter than I expected. :) I won’t be fiddling with either trigger at all :thumbup:.

Stay safe.
 
I don't tune my actions at all. The DA & SA are different, for a reason. Considering the DA on a revolver it usually it's only safety, I prefer as heavy a DA pull as possible.
Of course I'm only a Fudd, trigger jobs are OK, if you really want one. I'd hire a competent gunsmith.
 
My competition N-frames are all about 8.5-10 lbs in double action. I had my 610 down to about 7.5 lbs but it was Federal only tuned that light. I find smooth far more important than the actual pull weight. I shot so much double action Revolver in USPSA matches when I finally bought my self a double stack 1911 my accuracy got noticeable worst with it due to the lighter single action trigger. I had gotten so use to the heave pull the the grip required to make that work that when I did not have that heavy trigger pull I was spraying them all over the place with the light crisp single action 1911 trigger. It was a more difficult transition than I was expecting for sure.
 
My competition N-frames are all about 8.5-10 lbs in double action. I had my 610 down to about 7.5 lbs but it was Federal only tuned that light. I find smooth far more important than the actual pull weight. I shot so much double action Revolver in USPSA matches when I finally bought my self a double stack 1911 my accuracy got noticeable worst with it due to the lighter single action trigger. I had gotten so use to the heave pull the the grip required to make that work that when I did not have that heavy trigger pull I was spraying them all over the place with the light crisp single action 1911 trigger. It was a more difficult transition than I was expecting for sure.

That often happens to me if I shoot a revolver single action. I typically push them left shooting single action
 
I don't tune my actions at all.
I would not reduce the pull weight from factory standard on any defensive firearm.

The DA & SA are different, for a reason.
Yes. In DA mode, the trigger must cock the hammer and turn the cylinder.

Considering the DA on a revolver it usually it's only safety, I prefer as heavy a DA pull as possible.
Not I.
 
The dividing line between reliable ignition with any US primer and "Federal Only" seems to be somewhere around 8 lbs DA, +/- a good bit.

Anecdote alert: Back in the 1970s my gang was shooting PPC with Pythons set to 7 lbs, something not readily done with a Smith in those days although we know how now. Federal primers were mandatory.
One of the group worked at a gun store and if he fell behind on reloading, he would just snag some CCI/Speer ammo on his employee discount. One day the CCI rep dropped in so he asked him:
"How come a tuned .38 is reliable with CCI ammo but not reloads with CCI primers? I have to use Federal primers."
The rep hemmed and hawed and came out with:
"We get our brass from Federal and it comes in already primed to be loaded with Speer bullets."
 
While it's already been discussed J frames require a heavier spring to set off the primer.

Weight of pull? Whatever you can handle. Smooth is more important than light.
 
While it's already been discussed J frames require a heavier spring to set off the primer.

My Model 38 requires a standard spring to fire my test loads with CCI primers.
The M640 will pop them all with the softer 8lb Wolff spring and a lighter rebound spring. And a little polishing by my gunsmith who would have rather been working on a 1911. Very nice as J Smiths go, but I don't have a gauge that will register DA pulls.
 
My Model 38 requires a standard spring to fire my test loads with CCI primers.
The M640 will pop them all with the softer 8lb Wolff spring and a lighter rebound spring. And a little polishing by my gunsmith who would have rather been working on a 1911. Very nice as J Smiths go, but I don't have a gauge that will register DA pulls.

Depends on the gun but too many people just go to lighter springs without do the testing you have.
 
should be low enough that you can use it.
Yep a persons hand strength will determine what they can shoot well. Dad had to give up DA revolvers a few years ago due to age n loss of muscle mass.
Was heartbreaking as in his youth his hand strength was tremendous.
I still possess my genetic inheritance so smooth and even is good enough. I didn't even have much issue with a AMT Backup 45 acp who's trigger I'm sure was north of 20#.
For my revolvers I just polish contact points and leave springs alone.
 
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