Revolver Restoration

[mcdonl]

Ok... so I have read a lot of threads on re-bluing a revolver and viewed a couple of good video's showing the disassembly of a S&W revolver. I do not have a S&W so I am not sure how it will translate but here is what I have and my plan...

I have a Charter Arms .357 Bulldog with 2" bbl. There is bit of rust, and bluing is faded in spots. I want to make this gun look better. It is not a show piece, and I have never done this before. I do not have the money to, nor do I have any desire to pay anyone to do this work for me.

My plan is to:

1 - Take gun apart and clean as normal.
2 - soak frame and cylinder in a vinegar and salt solution overnight to remove the bluing and rust.
3 - Re-Blue using Perma Blue Kit
4 - Re-Assemble

So... some questions I have is this..

Regarding #1 & #2, how far down do I need to disassemble? Can I get away with not taking out the stuff behind the side plates? Is there anything inside the gun that will be damaged by the a) soaking in vinegar/salt solution of subsequent boiling to clean after-wards? I was not sure if there were any O-Rings or anything.

I am aware that the Perma Blue is not the best, but it is what I have and it my price range. Besides, this is a learning experience.

Also, how similar is the CA revolver to a S&W in regards to operations and assembly? Is it like a 1911 where they are "primarily" the same?

Thanks for your help!

 

[Jim Watson]

What "stuff behind the side plates?" You mean stuff like the hammer, trigger, hand, cylinder stop, cylinder latch, etc? I would sure want to take the gun down to the last bit and piece before soaking it in some DIY witches' brew.

By the way, while the cylinder frame is steel, the grip frame is aluminum and will not respond to stripping or bluing.

 

[mcdonl]

Jim, thats the stuff! Ok....

It sounds like I should just stick to re-bueing the metal parts that are visible or just dive in and see what happens.

I learned about that witches brew on here. Do you think it is a bad idea?

 

[Sam1911]

Yikes. Bluing chemicals (and most other metal finishing chemicals) are various corrosive compounds that are reacting with the metal surface. You have to give them the right amount of time to do their thing to the metal and then have a way to make them STOP doing that thing by washing them off. To dunk an assembled gun into that stuff is only going to invite those chemicals inside with no way of getting it all back out. So, a week from now, when those chemicals are still inside eating away at your springs, sear surfaces, screw threads, etc ...

Further, what those chemicals will do to steel is in no way translatable to what they'll do to the aluminum grip frame. Might be nothing. Or they might start dissolving it dramatically.

I would not do this. Period.

-Sam

 

[mcdonl]

Sam1911, I am convinced. I think I will do the 0000 wool on the rust, and touch up blueing on the spots that are worn.

Thanks for stopping me

Leroy

 

[Drail]

mcdonl, I have a Charter Pug I have been touching up for many years. Scotchbrite pads work as well as steel wool and won't shed splinters all over the gun. Just clean the gun and wipe the exterior with acetone or lacquer thinner. Take a hair dryer and get the metal really warm. Apply a little cold blue on a rag and rub vigorously. Reapply and buff with a dry rag or paper towels. Immediately get some oil on it or it will start to try to turn to rust. Just keep shooting it and touching it up. Great little guns. Charters have almost nothing in common with a S&W. Don't tear it down unless you have a LOT of free time and skill.

 

[mcdonl]

I have little free time and less skill. I will clean, polish and touch up with some cold blue. Thanks everyone.

Leroy

 

[mcdonl]

Ok, so I did it and I am pretty happy with the way it came out. I was very unhappy until the final coat of blue and then it all came together.

So, the first thing I did was clean the gun as normal, except I skipped the oiling. I then cleaned the gun in VERY HOT water with a mild dish soap... them I used the blue/rust remover on the cylinder which was in rough shape and just used some 0000 wool on the rust on the rest of the gun which was in better shape.

I then washed the gun again, and then cleaned it with the degreaser included with the kit.

Then I applied the blue as described it it took a long time. I bet I put 15 or so coats before it looked good... but it looks much better now...

Any suggestions as to how to get a decent phone cam picture of this gun? I tried but the flash makes it so you cannot see the details. I would like to post a picture.

 

[mcdonl]

Sorry to drag this up again, but I have another question. This rust/blue remover worked perfectly so I want to restore an old Mossberg 500 Shotgun starting tonight, but not finishing tonight.

If I strip the blue/finish off the gun what do I do to protect it until I can finish the project? Should I just wait?

I want to use that "tan" color kote like the desert cammo, but I do not have the finish yet. Is there a special primer I should use? can I just wrap the parts in a clean dry towel?

 

[rcmodel]

I'd wait.

Once you strip the finish and all the embedded oil, the bare steel will rust while you are standing thier watching it.

Anything you put on to protect it from rusting will have to be very throughly removed again when you get ready to paint it.

rc

 

[Sam1911]

Mossberg 500 Shotgun

Not to be a dumb a$$, but you do realize that the receiver of a Mossberg 500 is Aluminum, right? Lots of steel parts as well, but I don't know what the bluing remover will do to the anodized surface or the Aluminum underneath.

When I've used paint finishes on firearms (Duracoat), I didn't necessarily remove the bluing. Scuffed the surface and degreased thoroughly, but I don't think removing the bluing would be necessary or even terribly beneficial.

Of course, if the instructions with the finish say to do so, then never mind. But your receiver is still Aluminum!

-Sam

EDIT: Ok. I did a little checking and found that some 500s did come with steel receivers. Apparently they were all parkerized on all surfaces. I've never seen one, but that's cool. So, I'll just say to make sure of what you've got before you put the chemicals to work. A parkerized finish, thoroughly degreased, will take the paint finishes VERY well, and produce one of the toughest surfaces you're likely to be able to apply yourself.

 

[mcdonl]

RCmodel and Sam, thanks a lot! I am a dumba$$ for sure!

My gun is actually the Havens department store version of the 500 and I am pretty sure you are correct, it is an aluminum reciever. I will do a magnet check to verify. That will work right?

Thanks for your help. I do not mind messing up a cheap gun like this but I certainly don't want it to blow up in my face!

Leroy

 

[Sam1911]

RCmodel and Sam, thanks a lot! I am a dumba$$ for sure!

Not hardly! It's not hard to miss. Most long guns do use steel for the receiver, but a few are Aluminum (mostly shotguns, I think, and the AR-15/M-16). Heck, I didn't know that Mossberg EVER made a steel one until I looked it up just to be sure. The magnet test will work fine. But if you know a parkerized finish from a blued finish, you'll be able to tell easier than that. It appears that Mossberg parkerized all the steel receivered 500s.

Thanks for your help. I do not mind messing up a cheap gun like this but I certainly don't want it to blow up in my face!

It is good to start with a less expensive gun, but there's no reason to expect you'll mess it up. Follow the directions that come with the finish you're using and you should have good results.

Good luck, and post pics!

-Sam