RIA 1911 5" 10mm spring.

[BigBore44]

So I just bought a basically new RIA 1911 Tac II 5" 10mm. Picked it up for $400 with extra mag. I've read all the likes and dislikes for the last 2 days.

The major dislike is the light recoil springs. I will be using this gun for feral hogs out to probably 75 yards. And I'm a handloader. Won't be shooting max loads but I'm sure they'll be up there a ways. I'm not recoil sensitive at any level the 10mm could throw at me. I regularly shoot shoot 50-100 rounds of 44Mag with 240gr and 300gr Sierras with close to max charges of H-110.

Now that the preface is out of the way, I need a good recoil spring for the heavier loads. I was thinking at least a 20lb and maybe up to a 24lb spring. Any suggestions WITH part numbers or links to the exact spring you suggest is greatly appreciated.

Edit: Also any suggestions you might have to improve the gun are welcome. Most people really like them. This is my first 1911.

 

[gotboostvr]

I don't have any experience with the RIA 10mm's, but a single stack version is on my short list to acquire.

I've had nothing but great service from the Rocks I've owned and shot, hoping to hear a range report from you.

How's the case support look?

 

[BigBore44]

How's the case support look?

I don't have the gun yet. Not till next weekend. And I won't lie, I don't know what case support is, or what to look for. See? First 1911. Care to enlighten this 1911 noob? I've Always wanted one. This is just the first one I couldn't pass up. Mainly because its a 10mm. My 45 is an XD with thumb safety. It's 13+1 of 45. And I really shoot it well. So I didn't feel the need for another 45.....yet.

 

[Duvel]

$400 seems like a really good price!

 

[gotboostvr]

I don't have the gun yet. Not till next weekend. And I won't lie, I don't know what case support is, or what to look for. See? First 1911. Care to enlighten this 1911 noob? I've Always wanted one. This is just the first one I couldn't pass up. Mainly because its a 10mm. My 45 is an XD with thumb safety. It's 13+1 of 45. And I really shoot it well. So I didn't feel the need for another 45.....yet.

We all had to start somewhere!

What I'm talking about is how well supported the brass casing is inside the chamber. The chamber will have some cut away to aid in feeding, but how much can affect how well you can handle hot top end 10mm ammo.

Colt's Delta Elite, and the Glock 10mm's both have what are sometimes referred to as "unsupported chambers" because the feed ramp extends into the chamber far enough to where the brass is thinner and weaker. At best you'll bulge brass, leaving little smillie faces on all your spent casings. At worst with very hot ammo, you'll blow the brass out and can rip heads off. I'm overstating a little, I've shot factory Glock 20's with warm ammo and other than a little bulge to the brass it's perfectly safe.

In 45acp, it's not a major concern, Its such a low pressure cartridge. Ramp the pressures up for 10mm and there's a thinner margin for error.

From my understanding, the Kimber's and the RIA's both use ramped, fully supported barrels. I was hoping for some comparisons or insight, but I missed where this is your first 1911. I'll try and take a picture later you illustrate what I'm talking about unless someone else steps in.

 

[Cannibul]

Just go to www.gunsprings.com and get Stock No. 13111 - Extra Power Pak - Conventional

Another thing that really helps soak up recoil in a 10mm 1911 is a small radius firing pin stop.

 

[Steve in Allentown]

10mm 1911s tend to toss brass into the next county. There are three things you can do to slow down the slide's rearward movement.

• Use a heavier than standard mainspring (hammer spring). Standard is 23lbs.
• Install an flat bottom firing pin stop. You will most likely have to fit it to your specific pistol but this is easily accomplished using 320 grit sandpaper on the edges of the firing pin stop.
• Use a heavier than standard recoil spring.

Go to the Wolff site to see all the various kinds of springs that are available. Go to the EGW site to buy an oversized, flat bottom firing pin stop.

The recoil spring will have the least effect on slide velocity. Remember that it works in both directions i.e. it does slow the slide as it moves rearward and it speeds up the slide as it comes forward.

The hammer spring has much more of an effect on slowing down the slide. Add in a flat bottom firing pin stop and that effect is maximized.

I recommend buying Wolff's Stock No. 13111 - Extra Power Pak - Conventional recoil calibration pak and Wolff's Stock No. 11410 - Master Hammer Spring Pak. This assortment of springs will allow you to experiment with various combinations to discover which you like best.

The other thing that affects slide velocity is the fit of the barrel to the slide which is best left to a real 1911 gunsmith and which would require installing a new barrel.

One last thing you can do is add a shock buff to mitigate the abruptness of the slide impacting the frame at the end of its travel. Shock buffs are not recommended for 1911s with shorter than 5" barrels and should be considered to be consumable. They will get pretty beat up to the point of disintegration and will need to be replaced before they cause a pistol malfunction due to bits of disintegrated material binding up the works. Dawson sells aluminum shock buffs that last much longer than the rubbber ones.

 

[harrygunner]

I bought a RIA Tac II in 10mm a few months ago. Bought it to replace my Glock 29 when I'm in forests (I'm just not a Glock person).

The barrel is ramped with a solid lower lug. Decent case support.

The only "must change" for my gun was the firing pin spring. I suspect they used a overly strong spring to meet California-like state requirements. Led to occasional light strikes and unfired rounds.

I "shot" #2 pencils from it and my other 1911's and the pencil fell far short with the RIA. So, I installed a standard pin and spring.

IMO, the whole recoil spring issue is an "Internet truth" where all 10mm gun manufacturers are idiots that install under powered recoil springs.

Mine shoots Underwood ammo just fine with the recoil spring the gun came with. No hickups at all with about 300 rounds through it.

Only other mod I made was only driven by opportunity. I had an extra unfitted flat-bottom firing pin stop that I fit/installed in the RIA. Knowing me, I would have ordered one to install anyway. But, the gun shot fine before.

My other two 1911's are fully bespoke custom jobs (one also in 10mm) costing much more than the RIA and this RIA is a good deal. Perfect for its intended purpose. Glad I bought it.

 

[BigBore44]

Thanks for the input so far guys. I'm already shopping for springs. I can't decide between Wilson Combat and Wolfe. But I will. I read all last night (good thing I like to read). One thing I'm not crazy about the gun is it is a "Tactical" gun but has no rail. I like rails for my semis for woods walking. I have a StreamLight TLR-1 Gamespotter that I mount on my XD. Well as it turns out, someone else didn't like the fact theirs didn't also. But they made something to fix that. It a company out of Israel called ReCover. It's a bolt on polymer cover with a rail. Guaranteed to never fail, break, or even lose zero with a rail mounted laser. And a lifetime warranty. Comes in 5 colors. Tell me what you all think.....

 

[ATLDave]

I think you should get the gun and spend a little time shooting it before you start accessorizing or tuning.

 

[BigBore44]

I think you should get the gun and spend a little time shooting it before you start accessorizing or tuning.

I 100% agree. And I certainly will. But if the gun is good to go, I know I will like it more with a Tac Rail. But I will wait till I get a box or two through it before I do anything major. I just really like the way the grip looks and how it would increase the usefulness for its intended purpose.

 

[gotboostvr]

Ugh! I've been trying to find one without the rail!

All I see in Ohio is the versions with the rail, Gov't, double stack, commander size all have the rail. Since this would be a hunting/target gun, it'll never wear a laser/light and I've already a few hundred dollars worth of holsters I don't want to have to re-buy.

 

[wally]

I think you should get the gun and spend a little time shooting it before you start accessorizing or tuning.

Agreed!
Given their great customer service and support I feel its a safe assumption that they know what the best spring rate is so they don't have to do a lot of repairs on their dime!
Changing the grips OTOH is to be expected, they definitely skimp on the grips to help meet the price point.

 

[BigBore44]

Ugh! I've been trying to find one without the rail!

All I see in Ohio is the versions with the rail, Gov't, double stack, commander size all have the rail. Since this would be a hunting/target gun, it'll never wear a laser/light and I've already a few hundred dollars worth of holsters I don't want to have to re-buy.

Which is why I want to get the grip with the rail so I don't have to buy 3 or more holsters. One chest. One hip. And be done..... I hope.

 

[highlander 5]

Had a Delta Elite years ago got rid of the double recoil spring and replaced it with a 24 lb recoil spring. Pulling the slide back was loading a bear trap but my brass stay with in 10 feet of me.

 

[VinnAY]

In my midsize I run I think a 25 or 27 mainspring and a 22 recoil, I was trying to get my brass to stay at least in low Earth orbit, which is barely does, brass all over the place. Replacing the ejector and tuning the extractor did help to get my brass over my shoulder and to the right. Prior to that brass was out the right side anywhere from 1 O'Clock to 5 O'Clock. I handload 180 plated and you can really muscle those at high velocity.

 

[BigBore44]

So a recoil spring and a main spring change are what I'm looking at if my brass is attempting to make a rendezvous with the ISS before heading on to Mars. Brass doesn't seem to be very expensive from Starline. But I really don't want dinged cases every time. But what bullet is going to be my main issue for the load. I wish Sierra made a 180gr or 200gr SP.

 

[gotboostvr]

I've no significant experience with 10mm, but I've always had great success with the Hornady XTP line, they're very accurate in 44spcl/mag, 38/357 and 45acp and perform excellently in game animals (in 44mag at least) as long as you stick to the parameters Hornady laid out. They're pretty affordable which is just icing on the cake as well as there being a plethora of published and tested load data for them.

 

[BigBore44]

Ok, so as an update. Finally got my gun and grips in. Took it out and shot it. 180 Nosler HP's. First load was 9.0gr PowerPistol. Second load was the same bullet over 10gr BlueDot. The PP loads were pretty heavy. The BlueDot was much more pleasant. And I was more accurate with the BlueDot loads. But I did shoot those after the PP loads and those were the first time I'd fired the gun.

Two things of note: 1) The brass does fly about 25+ feet. 2) With a few of the PP loads, the case mouth was crushed in. It turns out the brass is being ejected and flips 180 degrees and impacts the slide.

All in all I really like this gun. But I need to do something about the brass issue. Any suggestions?

 

[Deaf Smith]

We all had to start somewhere!

What I'm talking about is how well supported the brass casing is inside the chamber. The chamber will have some cut away to aid in feeding, but how much can affect how well you can handle hot top end 10mm ammo.

Colt's Delta Elite, and the Glock 10mm's both have what are sometimes referred to as "unsupported chambers" because the feed ramp extends into the chamber far enough to where the brass is thinner and weaker. At best you'll bulge brass, leaving little smillie faces on all your spent casings. At worst with very hot ammo, you'll blow the brass out and can rip heads off. I'm overstating a little, I've shot factory Glock 20's with warm ammo and other than a little bulge to the brass it's perfectly safe.

In 45acp, it's not a major concern, Its such a low pressure cartridge. Ramp the pressures up for 10mm and there's a thinner margin for error.

From my understanding, the Kimber's and the RIA's both use ramped, fully supported barrels. I was hoping for some comparisons or insight, but I missed where this is your first 1911. I'll try and take a picture later you illustrate what I'm talking about unless someone else steps in.

Delta Elites chambers are basically SUPPORTED. Virtually up to the extractor grove. No bulged cases have I ever seen in my DE.

As for the RIA, Wolf Springs make a dandy replacement 10mm spring. I'd just get that.

Deaf

 

[BigBore44]

As for the RIA, Wolf Springs make a dandy replacement 10mm spring. I'd just get that.

Deaf

Ok. Which ones? Main springs? Recoil springs? What pound would you recommend? I've never messed with 1911's. But they seem simple enough.

 

[Deaf Smith]

Ok. Which ones? Main springs? Recoil springs? What pound would you recommend? I've never messed with 1911's. But they seem simple enough.

https://www.gunsprings.com/COLT/DELTA ELITE/cID1/mID1/dID64

Factory Standard recoil spring is 23 Lb. I presume your gun does not have a recoil guide rod in place (still would not matter as I think the spring would go right over the rod.)

The rest of the springs can be left alone.

Deaf