Hatchett
Member
I am the proud owner of a Sphinx AT 2000 P that I bought well used at a gun show for just a little more than a CZ would run, and have enjoyed shooting for several years now. (For those who don't know, it's essentially a high quality Swiss-made clone of a CZ-75 compact.) Recently I noticed that it had developed a very concerning problem; the trigger still drops the hammer even when the slide is out of battery--even way, way out of battery. After fiddling with the gun for a few hours, I think I've found the cause:
The "trigger bow" or "trigger rod" and its bunny ears aren't being pushed far enough down by the bottoms of the slide. Normally the trigger shouldn't engage the sear unless the bunny ears have sprung back up into the very specific slots in the bottom of the slide. Normally, when the slide moves even slightly back, the ears are pushed down and the nose of the trigger bow is likewise moved down far enough that if the trigger is pulled, the nose would therefore pass underneath the sear touching only air.
Mine, however, is now acting on the sear and tripping the hammer even when it's really, really not supposed to. One out of two times I pull the trigger even with the slide fully back, I feel it contact parts it isn't supposed to but then click as it finally snaps past them. One out of three, it doesn't even do that, and if the slide were not holding it back, the hammer would in fact fall if it could.
Looking at it, the tips of the ears do look a little worn down (or more likely F'd up by some previous owner with a dremel thinking it'd improve his groups somehow). It must only be off by what has to be the tiniest fraction of a centimeter. If I so much as press down on the top of the slide while doing any of this, it pushes the slide ever so slightly harder against the tops of the ears that the whole thing functions as normal again. This on a pistol with almost no detectable movement between the slide and frame, at least by me.
Is this a problem anyone here has ever encountered before, and do you know (fingers crossed) of a convenient fix? I don't know if I could get a replacement bow, but I have a friend in Switzerland I could have call Sphinx for me, if that is the only way. I actually wonder if the Sphinx is so close to the CZ blueprint that a CZ part would work just as well, or could be made to.
I am sending it to Cajun Gun Works since they advertise Sphinx work on their site. I'm sure a gunsmith of that caliber could find a fix, but if anyone knows of a more cost friendly one, that would be wonderful.
The "trigger bow" or "trigger rod" and its bunny ears aren't being pushed far enough down by the bottoms of the slide. Normally the trigger shouldn't engage the sear unless the bunny ears have sprung back up into the very specific slots in the bottom of the slide. Normally, when the slide moves even slightly back, the ears are pushed down and the nose of the trigger bow is likewise moved down far enough that if the trigger is pulled, the nose would therefore pass underneath the sear touching only air.
Mine, however, is now acting on the sear and tripping the hammer even when it's really, really not supposed to. One out of two times I pull the trigger even with the slide fully back, I feel it contact parts it isn't supposed to but then click as it finally snaps past them. One out of three, it doesn't even do that, and if the slide were not holding it back, the hammer would in fact fall if it could.
Looking at it, the tips of the ears do look a little worn down (or more likely F'd up by some previous owner with a dremel thinking it'd improve his groups somehow). It must only be off by what has to be the tiniest fraction of a centimeter. If I so much as press down on the top of the slide while doing any of this, it pushes the slide ever so slightly harder against the tops of the ears that the whole thing functions as normal again. This on a pistol with almost no detectable movement between the slide and frame, at least by me.
Is this a problem anyone here has ever encountered before, and do you know (fingers crossed) of a convenient fix? I don't know if I could get a replacement bow, but I have a friend in Switzerland I could have call Sphinx for me, if that is the only way. I actually wonder if the Sphinx is so close to the CZ blueprint that a CZ part would work just as well, or could be made to.
I am sending it to Cajun Gun Works since they advertise Sphinx work on their site. I'm sure a gunsmith of that caliber could find a fix, but if anyone knows of a more cost friendly one, that would be wonderful.
