Mtnbkr,
I would suggest refraining from making 200 rounds all at once to start. I'm concerned you may make 200 rounds that will cause you frustration by not patterning/performing well.
I've found experimenting with 5 or 6 rounds each with same powder charge and free-bore to with evaluating accuracy is more efficient. Load 20 to 30 rounds in goups of 5 or 6 with same powder charge and different free-bore (seating depth), adjust the free-bore in .005" to .010 increments from one group to the next. You may discover that your rifle will show preference for a particular free-bore. I don't recommend you start with the bullet against the lands unless your loading to the lowest listed powder charge in your manual. Starting between .015 and .020" free-bore and seat incrementally deeper to around .040 or .050" or maybe .060" free-bore.
If you'd want to establish velocity first then don't be to particular about trying to achieve tight groups at first. Start with about a .020" free-bore then after you've established a powder charge for your desired velocity, then experiment with adjusting the free-bore. Try to keep a record or journal of the results of each loading along with your load data so you can refer to it to determing when the load improves (pattern converges) and when it gets worse(pattern diverges). You may see some changes in pattern size with the different weight charges. This is a clue to what the rifle likes the charge to be at that particular free-bore. I don't recomend you try to keep this information in your head. Keep your notes simple and it's not hard to do or maintain. You may find a reloading and ballistic software helpful to keep this record with. There are some relatively good ones available on the net as share and free ware. They may also help to establish your point blank aim and or trajectory table while sighting in.
Even though I have a Dillon progressive, I seldom use it as one for loading rilfe rounds. I typically size, deprime and prime the respective brass first, then drop and weigh each charge (afterward looking over into each brass to get a visual on each charge) and finish by seating the bullets. My simple mind finds it easier to keep track and stay focused on one phase at a time. I do use it as a progressive when loading 38s, 357s and 45 handgun rounds because the powder throws are a lot more consistant and I find loading them to be simpler.
IMR4350 is a good choice. Regarding extruded powders, I feel IMR 4831 feeds better, more consistantly, through my Dillon 550s metering bar. I think the sticks are a little shorter and narrower and results in less bridging. I also use W760 and have also tried H414 and they are about the same but not quite. Although I'm not saying W760 is any better, I like it only slightly better than H414. If you select a ball powder you may want to use 'hotter' primers as mentioned earlier regarding magnum primers in cold tempuratures. I get a slight bit increase in velocity with WLRM's over WLR's but not enough to get excited about. The older supply of WLR's I have are considered a hotter primer.
I select my starting powder based upon is potential to fill the case capacity.
If you choose to get a neck size die, from my experience I suggest also get a full length die too. Eventually you want to bump the shoulder a little so they chamber easy again. You can use the full lenght die to partially size the neck and not touch the shoulder and wall by not setting it as far down as the instrutions say for full lenght sizing. Yes I always lube the case regardless, keeps the process consistant. I recently stuck a case in a die, first time in ten years of loading, it's very frustrating to say the least. I size about 2/3's of the neck which is enough to support the bullet and still maintains the case to chamber relation after forming. Somewhere between the 4th and 10th firing you'll find full sizing again every so often will help. Watch your depriming pin and expansion ball rod adustment. As for crimping, it's your choice but, to keep the variables limited I don't recommend it at first, get the powder charge and free-bore established first before experimenting with crimping.
Bullet choice; Sierra's Game King and Nosler BT are typically accurate bullets however, for hunting might try Remington Core Lokt, Speer, Sierra Pro Hunter, Hornady Interlock bullets, Nosler Partitions, listed in no particular order. My experience with a 7mm 140 grain Noster BT produced great accuracy from my rifle however, at 50 yards with a 2600 to 2700 fps velocity the bullet performed successful on a deer but the post mortem was disconcerting. The bullet completely fragmented upon striking bone. The result could best be described as liking to an M80 exploding in the deers chest cavity, with no exit wound. Since then I have leaned toward Speer Grand Slams and Remington Core Lokt for hunting but, they are also inherently not as accurate. If you were sure your game shot was going to be greater than 100 yards then the balistic tips should be fine. Experiment until you find a bullet your rifle patterns well or better than others and that your budget will support.
That's all I can think of at the moment regarding suggestions based upon my experiences. Good luck and happy loading.
Bill
