Rifle vs. Steel Plate:

[Maverick223]

Over at the far end of the shop I saw a threatening looking hunk of steel plate...

The steel was 3/8in. thick and was formerly a steel column support, I decided to have a big-bore day and used the Browning 1885 High Wall .45-70Govt. (loaded with my "special-brew" pushing a 300gr. HP out the 28in. tube at about 2500fps), the new Whitworth Mauser .375H&H (loaded with a moderate load pushing a 300gr. SP-RN out the 24.5in. bore at about 2550fps), and the DT-SRS .300WM (with standard HSM Match which should push the 190gr. HPBT out of the 26in. bbl in the neighborhood of 3000fps). A couple days later I decided to finish it off with a few additional rounds from the M17 .223Rem. (standard Fed. Am. Eagle bulk 55gr. FMJ which should yield about 3000fps out of the 21.5in. bbl) and USGI M1 Carbine (standard Winchester USA 110gr. which should yield about 1900fps. out of the little 18in. bbl).

View from front:


View from rear:


Here is a frontal view with key (box color indicates cartridge type):


As you can see all of the big bores penetrated the steel with relative ease, neither of the smaller cartridges penetrated the steel, though the .223Rem. got very close and would certainly do so with AP/steel core rounds. I might take it out for another session, but I don't have much real estate left (without holes). That .300WM is as good as a drill, and a whole lot more fun too.

I think I effectively neutralized the threat, and let that be a lesson to all the other glaring steel plates out there. Anyone else want to share some steel carnage?

 

[Maverick223]

Forgot a little caveat:
***DO NOT TRY MY .45-70Govt. LOAD***...Nevermind: removed details of the loading information.

 

[smokeyandthebandit05]

Awesome!! Sounds like some serious loads.

On a side note Ive been thinking of building one of these target things
http://www.reloadammo.com/backstop.htm

It says to use 3/8" steel plate or upgrade to 1/2". Im mostly goin to use it for .223 and 30-30. From your pictures Im thinking of goin with the 1/2 or even maybe 7/8" in case I want to go with larger loads. Hell if Im goin with 7/8" might as well go with 1". Idk please stop me now before I have a 4" piece of plate steel lol

 

[52grain]

Thanks for the photos maverick.

 

[Sunray]

Please reduce the size of your pictures.
What distance?
"my "special-brew"...not safe for any rifle per any manual that I have seen..." Bragging about using unsafe ammo isn't exactly wise.

 

[Maverick223]

smokeyandthebandit05, I think 1in. plate (or 3/16in. armor plate) would be a safe minimum for reducing the chance of denting the surface. Even then I wouldn't recommend using AP (M855, et al).

 

[Maverick223]

Photos have been resized 80%...distance: 100.

Bragging about using unsafe ammo isn't exactly wise.

Not bragging...warning, I would rather others exercise extreme caution WRT the load listed. It was worked up very slowly in a very stout action, and determined to be safe with no signs of high-pressure. If it is loaded by a overconfident, inexperienced handloader it could be very dangerous...speaking of which I think I will remove the powder type and quantity making it a non-issue.

 

[smokeyandthebandit05]

Thanks! I just want something that will last for pretty much ever

 

[Sunray]

"...not safe for any rifle per any manual..." That makes it dangerous for any reloader.

 

[Maverick223]

I just want something that will last for pretty much ever

In that case I would invest in some costly, but darn near indestructible armor plate. You might even be able to squeak by with 1/4in. plate with the angle.

"...not safe for any rifle per any manual..." That makes it dangerous for any reloader.

You can do simply amazing things with the investment of a little time, patience, and intelligence. The loads also exceed the stated maximum OAL, but due to the long throat this is fine for my rifle as well.

 

[smokeyandthebandit05]

Where would I find armor plate? I have a steel supply place about 25 min from me http://www.rsphillipssteel.com/index.html

I could just call them up or a good friend who is a welder who could maybe "find" a piece of steel

 

[lopezni]

um, 2500fps 45-70 in a Jap rifle? That sounds impossible. I guess I'll just have to take your
word on it.

 

[Maverick223]

Where would I find armor plate?...I could just call them up or a good friend who is a welder who could maybe "find" a piece of steel

The only places that I know of are on the internet, no local shop is likely to carry armor plate unless then build tanks. Since you have a buddy that can give you a good deal I would just use 1in. plate, and replace as necessary (it will likely last a long time).

um, 2500fps 45-70 in a Jap rifle? That sounds impossible. I guess I'll just have to take your word on it.

Keep in mind it has a 28in. bbl and I load that particular rifle HOT. It comes out quick...and apparently doesn't care to stop too much. I have not chronographed the load (don't have one), so take my estimate with a cup of salt, but I would bet that I'm not off by too much.

 

[skiking]

I tried a 3/8" steel plate at 450 yds a few weeks back hoping that I wouldn't destroy it with my 300 WM. No luck, 180 gr Accubonds moving at ~3150 fps punched right through. I have been looking for 1/2" AR500 steel since then.

 

[smokeyandthebandit05]

Where do you get a Jap rifle from? I see a Browning 1885 Highwall 45-70

Im sorry if Im ignorant

 

[Maverick223]

I have been looking for 1/2" AR500 steel since then.

That is the good stuff, 3/8" armor will probably do just fine, it is hard stuff.

Where do you get a Jap rifle from? I see a Browning 1885 Highwall 45-70.

It is a Jap. made (Miroku) Browning.

 

[smokeyandthebandit05]

So the Japs made Brownings hmmm? Was this ~WW1?

 

[smokeyandthebandit05]

I may have heard of this, Im not sure but I am curious

 

[Maverick223]

So the Japs made Brownings hmmm? Was this ~WW1?

No, much, much later (mine is probably late 80's). Browning began to be made in Japan in the late 60's IIRC, and they are still made in Miroku today.

 

[smokeyandthebandit05]

Oh. Wow... Now are the Browning Hi-powers and various rifles made in Japan? I cant believe this

 

[Maverick223]

Now are the Browning Hi-powers and various rifles made in Japan?

Most if not all of the rifles are made in Japan. I am not a big pistol person so I am not certain about the Hi-Powers, but if I doubt that they are made in Japan.

 

[Big_E]

Nothing wrong with Japanese stuff. But I was a little dismayed when I learned Brownings were being made in Japan.

Mav, I like what that 45-70 did to that evil piece of metal. Given that it is a volatile load, I am not sure if I want to be on the giving or receiving end when that thing goes off. But, your obviously okay. I would like to see other experiments in the future so keep up the good work.

 

[huntershooter]

I fabricated some 6" and 12" T1 (1/2") plates and hangers a few weeks ago. Was shooting a .22/250 @ 300 and 400 yds with a 15-20 mph crosswind. At 300 yds a very slight cratering was observed, which was not present @ 400.
I would imagine severe cratering would have been present @ 100 yds.
At the current cost of T1 I'll be shooting at 400 yds or a rifle with less velocity.

 

[dubbleA]

Again, the only way to go with steel targets that will take a beating and not dimple/crater is AR 500. A572, A514(T1) etc is tougher than say A36 but dosent hold up. Around here, a 4x8 sheet of 3/8" AR500 is around $600. I can hit my 1/2" AR 6 inch circles at 400 yards with 50 BMG 750 gr Amaxes
and they just splash on em, that's the closest I have tried with them. The hard part is that it will wreak havoc on the frame with it's energy.

Nothing wrong with Japanese stuff. But I was a little dismayed when I learned Brownings were being made in Japan.

Some Browning models have been made in Japan since the mid 1970's. The well known A5 shotgun went from being made in Belgium to Japan in 1976. My earliest Japanese Browning is an early-mid 70's BL-22.



One of several Brownings I own, a 1989 Japanese production M1885 Hi Wall.

 

[Sawblade]

I put a few .30/30 rounds into a scrap peice of 1" steel, and each hit left a 1/2" deep crater. Would angling it down like shown in that link eliminate that problem completely?