Rifle vs. Steel Plate:

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The best method I have found for steel rifle targets is to use 3/8" AR500 certified steel plate.

1) Weld the hangers to the edge of the plate so the weld affected area is not in the impact area.

2) Orient the face of the target at 45* minimum off the vertical to the direction of impact.

3) allow the targets to swing as freely as possible.

Cut the plate so the face as viewed from the shooting position is the desired shape ie for a square as viewed from the shooting position the target would actually be a rectangle.

Angling the plate does more than make the plate appear thicker, it causes the round to be deflected and slide down the plate if the angle is great enough. IME 45* is the minimum 60* is better but requires more material.

Also, use soft point ammo if possible.

Even doing all these things it is likely some high powered rifle ammo will cause some damage to the plates because the impact energy fatigues the plate beneath the surface and over time will cause the surface to get rough as it flakes off. Most commercial metal plate targets I could find are rated for 100yds minimum for normal FMJ (non penetrator/armour piercing) type ammo.

Disclaimer:
This info was obtained in my conversations with a large manufacturer of military and LEO range systems.
 
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I made a 12"x12" 1/2" thick Hardox 500 swinging target. Shooting 690gr AP with 215gr of 5010 out of my AR50 would blow a hole right through it at 660 yards. My Remington 700p shooting 168gr SMK at the same distance wouldn't even dent a 6"x6" 1/4" hardox plate. I never shot either of the plates at closer then 500 yards but even at that distance my 700p wouldn't dent the 1/4" plate.
 
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