roa problem

Status
Not open for further replies.

prihi

Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
8
Hi,
I have 7 1/2 " stainless steel Ruger Old Army and following jam occurs every 30-40 shots.
When I am pulling hammer to full cock position hammer jams and I cannot pull it either to full cock or half cock position. Cylinder is also blocked. Only way for now to solve this problem is complete disassembly of revolver and removing cylinder latch, after that revolver shoots around 40 shots and the same thing happens again. So if someone knows reason or some easier way to solve this jam I would be very grateful.
 
I need some more details.

Please describe what you mean by 'cylinder latch'.

I understand 'complete disassembly' to mean removing the grips, grip frame, trigger guard and all the small action parts inside the frame. Is this what you mean?
 
hello,
yes it is what I mean; I removed hand grip to remove this part . Maybe I used wrong word - I "freed" this part.
Please check part number CB040500 on the picture. In Ruger manual this part is described as Cylinder latch.
 

Attachments

  • roa.JPG
    roa.JPG
    106.9 KB · Views: 47
I'd like to know why, also.
Was too eager when I got my new ROA, think I took the cylinder out wrong. Anyway when I put cylinder back in, gun was completely locked up. Somewhere I managed to get a line around the cyl. Took it to Jerry's Gun Shop, Rochester, MI. Jerry dissassembled it rather completely, put back together & it now works. Even Jerry could not say what he did that fixed it.

Had a new Vaquero 2 yrs ago that would not revolve, Jerry fixed that with very light touch of a fine square stone, removing tiny burs from the cylinder ratchet.

Stainless does tend to gall, perhaps whatever the problem with our ROA's are, they are worse with stainless than with blued steel.

Just speculating, but if you have to disassemble the gun again, why don't you try cleaning all the oil off & spraying dry film molybdenum disulfide lube into the action? Lots of gun suppliers, including Track of the Wolf, have this dry film moly lube. I filled mine w dry film graphite, not as good but was quickly available from my local NAPA auto store.
 
Cylinder latch is Ruger speak for bolt. Is the latch bound and not allowing the hammer to move back or is the hammer bound and not dropping the latch, keeping the cylinder locked?
 
"...Cylinder latch is Ruger speak for bolt. Is the latch bound and not allowing the hammer to move back or is the hammer bound and not dropping the latch, keeping the cylinder locked?..."
Hi,
I think it is the first issue.
 
You should be able to roll the cylinder out with the cylinder pin removed, even if the latch/bolt is still up. The see if you can depress the bolt with a finger or screwdriver blade. It may be that the plunger and spring is not operating correctly, or slipping past the latch where they contact. The plunger & spring are in the hammer. Ruger parts KCB04100 and KXR04300 in your exploded view.
 
Thank you all for the answers.
I checked all of them and I could not reproduce a jam during dry firing.
Also I cannot depress the bolt during jam.
I will try to check if maybe base pin was moved forward because of the recoil.
 
Hee hee hee

I love this ,
the UNFOULABLE Perfectly Functioning ROOGER in every way having issues , ha ha ha , love it . :D
Yeh , it's a machine , I knew you were are full of it anywayz saying they don't jamb , they are more accurate , than any Colts or Remingtons or Rogers and Spencers . :neener:

NOT :D

Cheers , Das Jaeger

PS......I hope you get her fixed prihi anywayz . Send it back, they will diagnose it and fix it , free of charge am sure .
 
Have you ever stripped it down completely - I mean completely- and cleaned every part?
Mine has never jammed for any reason. And it was made in the early 70's.
 
Have you ever stripped it down completely - I mean completely- and cleaned every part?
Mine has never jammed for any reason. And it was made in the early 70's.
Yes I did when I purchased it few months ago
 
If you're going to shoot them, you have to clean them, no matter where you live.
 
Take a good look at #KCB04102, hammer plunger and how it interacts with #KCB04500, cylinder latch. Check for a excessive gap between the latch and trigger on the trigger pivot pin. You may need to put a shim between those two parts, I normally start with a .010 shim.
Does the end of the hammer plunger show any wear? A common mod for the Ruger is to make a new plunger out of a 3/32 drill that is about .080 longer than the original. That well hold the latch down slightly more and eliminate the turn line that Rugers all seem to develop.

If it only jams when actually firing the gun then it is related to loading. Either a ball is moving forward or a cap is to high on the nipple.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top