Rogers & Spencer question

[Riot Earp]

How do you remove the basepin/loading lever on a Rogers & Spencer? I assume you loosen one or both of those big screws in the frame, but how far should you turn them? I'm looking at a used Navy Arms R&S that I assume was made by Euroarms, but am not sure. I'd like to pull the basepin before I buy it.

 

[Niner]

Yep

Turn the screw a half a turn. It may have some small marks on the side of the slot in the screw head that indicates a need to be turned up in order to remove the loading rod.

Mine is made by Euroarms. It's clearly marked on the top flat of the barrel.

 

[Snaggletooth]

I think yoy will like the R&S. All Ive seen have been made by Euroarms. The R&S "fits the hand" and is my favorite shooter.

 

[Riot Earp]

So, I only need to turn one side? Does it matter which?

If I keep turning, will the screw pop out? It's kind of mangled, and I'd like to replace it.

 

[Niner]

The screw doesn't pop out. It stays in the frame. All you are doing is turning the screw a half turn to a flat piece in the screw axis that allows the loading arm to come out. However it is a two piece screw. I'll attach a photo of the two piece screw and the loading arm to give you an idea.

There is a large chance Dixe Gun Works has a replacement loading lever screw for this model.

 

[unspellable]

Off the topic of screws but still on R&S revolvers, mine throws a pattern like a skeet choked shot gun with lite loads but the group will really tighten up with hotter loads. Anybody else experience this?

 

[Snaggletooth]

Describe light loads. What ios a light load to me may be a heavy load to you. I shoot 25 grains as a light load. Mine keeps a good group at 50 yds.

 

[Niner]

25 FFFg is what I use.

Just took a look in an old Fadala suggested loads book. He lists a Navy Arms Rogers & Spencer and shows 20FFFg to 25FFFg as showing best accuracy with 25 FFFg being optimum with its increased velocity. He also shows 35FFFg as maximum recommended for this particular Navy Arms import.