Rolling Block Fun

[krinko]

I have two rolling block rifles, a Swedish M1867 in 50x?mm and a Pedersoli .45-70 with a 30" barrel and the lesser type of tang sight.
The Pedersoli is supposed to be a "long range" rifle, but the trigger pull running over fifteen pounds seemed to be a bit problematic, so I took the hammer out to fix it.
First impression was not good, the sear notch in the hammer was angled up on one side and down on the other, with a deep tool mark running across the whole face. In effect, the notch was cut for a light pull and heavy pull at the same time, with a tool mark deep enough to catch the trigger contact and add friction to boot. Nice.
I set up the hammer in the vise and stoned the sear notch to uniformity matching the "up" or light pull side, since this would remove the least metal from the hammer and leave plenty of room to reform the sear notch for a heavier pull, if needed.
Well, that was a nice idea, but it was the wrong idea.
During testing, the breech block was pulled back and when I moved it forward again, the hammer followed it down. So the trigger rode along the bottom of the hammer and was hit by the half cock notch moving full speed ahead. Broke about 1/3 of the half cock clean off.
I said some things then. And I meant every word.

Going to stone a heavier angle on the sear notch this weekend and I'm contemplating grinding the rest of the half cock off and doing without. I'm not going to be carrying this rifle around loaded, so it doesn't need to be there.
Photos when I can.
-----krinko

 

[25-20 WCF]

I have a 1990s vintage Petersoli RB, and it functions very well. The bore was VERY tight, 0.453”! I got the trigger down to about 4 lbs, and with the load it likes best - 405FN RCBS over 25.5 grains of IMR4227 - it aggs sub-moa. Even won some CBA postal matches with it. Blackened all the brass furniture and cut down the forend to a period-correct ‘splinter’ shape. Haven’t shot it in a while, now I might take it out this weekend.

 

[paul harm]

If you just honed the angle of the notch, it wouldn't make the trigger follow the hammer. Now if you reduced the amount the trigger sear engaged the hammer - the depth, then yes it could hit the half cock. I also have to reduce the trigger pull of my 43 Spanish RB. The notch and sear are both wider than necessary. I think I'll first reduce their width so there's less material to hone.

 

[Old No7]

Call Lee Shaver (publisher of "The Single Shot Exchange") of Lee Shaver's Gunsmithing if you get stuck; he worked on my Remington Roller and I'm sure he could help you out if you sent it off to him.

Old No7

 

[vagunmonkey]

Call Lee Shaver (publisher of "The Single Shot Exchange") of Lee Shaver's Gunsmithing if you get stuck; he worked on my Remington Roller and I'm sure he could help you out if you sent it off to him.

Old No7

Excellent choice....Lee also does the repair/warranty work for Pedersoli in North America

 

[krinko]

No7,
I'm not stuck, but thanks for the recommendation. The Swedish roller needs the block refaced to eliminate the blow back cut around the firing pin hole and maybe new pins for hammer and block to eliminate breech block looseness.
I am not equipped to do either of these, so I will give Mr. Shaver a call.
Going down to the bench now to recut the Pedersoli hammer to a neutral 90 degrees.
More later.
-----krinko

 

[paul harm]

Measure the length from the edge of the full cock notch and the edge of the half cock to the pin the hammer rotates on. . You don't want the edge of the full cock to be less than the half cock or that's when the end of the trigger will catch. When you pull the trigger back to release the hammer, the sear end should stay back clearing the half cock notch till the hammer hits the firing pin. Also, are you re-hardening the notch ? You may be going through the hardness if it was case hardened. Then you'll end up with a unsafe gun. Whenever I do any trigger work on older guns and not sure of what kind of steels were used I always do a " casenet" job on the part I was working on. I'd hate to have a trigger go to he!! after all that work. You can get the stuff and instructions I believe from DGW.

 

[krinko]

Paul, thanks for the snippets from Gunsmithing Primer Of Essential Knowledge To Prevent Doom. I still have my copy around here somewhere---on a floppy disc, if you get my drift.
I can assure you, sir, that whatever course I choose, I shall not come to any Harm.

Just installed Windows 10 and must now go back to getting acquainted.
-----krinko

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

Sorry about Windows 10, I run Linux myself. Much simpler to deal with once you get used to it. You might also check the tension of the trigger return spring, mine was causing a brutal trigger pull.

 

[paul harm]

My gunsmith friend is shorting the barrel to 26". It was 36 with a bayonet lug. Then he'll re-install the front sight. In return I'm making a leather riser for the comb on his rolling block he put a scope on. It's a cute little gun chambered for a 217/18, or 219 - something. He relined the barrel. I need a 1 1/2 riser - it's a PITA to get it covered so it looks good and stays on.

 

[krinko]

Trigger gone from 15+ pounds to 4 pounds. All is well.





-----krinko

 

[krinko]

The Pedersoli was made in 2006 and I believe she sat idle for most of the intervening 12 years. This would explain the freckles of oxidation everywhere the previous owner handled her.
There's a tang sight, but it's not the really good one
and there were only two of the front sight inserts left with the rifle---not the best ones, either.
Oh well, everything's better now.
Looks like a shut-in day Sunday so I will try for more photos---although Windows 10 seems to have harelipped the photo editing abilities of the old Windows 7 model.
-----krinko

 

[krinko]

Here is a hasty photo of the 1867 Eskilstuna roller by "J.A. Lafqvist". The ring of erosion on the block is obvious and in addition, the firing pin has a damaged tip. Both to be repaired after the first of the year.
One item of note is the pin running through the receiver above the rearmost trigger assembly screw. It prevents the mainspring from running up to the limit of its range---so the hammer may be reinstalled without removing the butt. This is something Pedersoli ought to consider.



-----krinko