Before my mods I had no problems whatsoever. Same ammo, same magazines, same everything. What I did do is recently add an over travel set screw to the trigger, and did the JB weld sear trick to my Ruger 10/22. The trigger is amazingly improved and has a nice clean break with very little creep. The only problem is now I am getting very, very light strike on the primers. I am getting click with no bang on about 1 of 15 trigger pulls. Inspecting the rim on the ones that did not go off, I had to really look to find a firing pin mark, it was almost invisible. Any ideas on what to do, or undo to fix this problem?
Ruger 10/22 light strike on primer
- Thread starter LJH
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Fumbler
Member
Did you shorten the hammer spring or install a lighter hammer spring?
That's the biggest cause of light primer strikes.
The overtravel screw and JB Weld shouldn't affect the firing pin strikes.
Is the gun clean?
If the chamber is dirty then you'd be trying to fire out of battery and in that case the hammer would impact the bottom of the bolt instead of hitting the firing pin head on.
If the firing pin groove on the bolt is ditry then that can slow the pin down too.
If you recently took the firing pin out, then make sure the firing pin return spring isn't binding.
One last question for you; where did you install the overtravel screw?
If you messed with the hole for the hammer spring strut while installing the overtravel screw then that could be the problem.
That's the biggest cause of light primer strikes.
The overtravel screw and JB Weld shouldn't affect the firing pin strikes.
Is the gun clean?
If the chamber is dirty then you'd be trying to fire out of battery and in that case the hammer would impact the bottom of the bolt instead of hitting the firing pin head on.
If the firing pin groove on the bolt is ditry then that can slow the pin down too.
If you recently took the firing pin out, then make sure the firing pin return spring isn't binding.
One last question for you; where did you install the overtravel screw?
If you messed with the hole for the hammer spring strut while installing the overtravel screw then that could be the problem.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Make sure the barrel is fully seated in the receiver and the clamp screws are tight.
rcmodel
rcmodel
texfed
Member
I've been doing these guns for years and from what your saying you haven't touched...I'm guessing that your gun isn't actually 'firing' sometimes, in other words you pull the trigger and nothing happens and the noise your hearing is 'trigger' noise.
First, personally, I don't like the 'JB ' weld thing. With that out of the way, look at two things...first the easiest...take up on the trigger stop and see what happens....now the other thing...the JB'd sear....I think what's happening is the trigger mechanism is not resetting after a shot!
I'd stick an un messed with sear back in and see if it shoots reliably again.
We live near each other....if you don't have another sear...PM me I may have, if I do your welcome to it.
Fumbler
Member
I didn't think about trigger reset like texfed said.
That could be the answer right there.
Especially since you say you couldn't find the firing pin strikes.
If you don't have another sear, try using a file to file off just a tiny bit of JB Weld.
If you take off only a small amount the JB Weld should still keep quite a bit of pretravel out.
That could be the answer right there.
Especially since you say you couldn't find the firing pin strikes.
If you don't have another sear, try using a file to file off just a tiny bit of JB Weld.
If you take off only a small amount the JB Weld should still keep quite a bit of pretravel out.
highorder
Member
For education's sake, can someone tell me why you would JB weld your sear instead of replacing it with a quality aftermarket part?
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I prefer a wad of Bubble-Gum myself!
Much cheaper then buying a whole tube of JB-Weld, when you only need a little wad.
:banghead:
rcmodel
Much cheaper then buying a whole tube of JB-Weld, when you only need a little wad.
:banghead:
rcmodel
highorder
Member
huh. a google search returns this: http://home.earthlink.net/~nrwilson01/jbweldtrickmyway/
I wonder if aftermarket parts address this?
I wonder if aftermarket parts address this?
Fumbler
Member
In this 10/22 trick, a dab of JB Weld is put on the sear between the sear and disconnector.
The slop between these two parts causes trigger pretravel.
I don't advocate ghetto rigging your guns, but this trick really works just fine as long as the JB Weld isn't too thick.
As far as I know, there is no aftermarket part. If there was an aftermarket part to fix this then it would have to be hand fitted anyway.
Some people have drilled and tapped set screws to get the same effect.
However, JB Weld may actually work better because there's no screw to work loose.
highorder
Member
Thanks Fumbler 
I got the gist of it by reading the link I posted. A set screw would work, but you correctly stated the flaw (wiggleitis)
Do aftermarket trigger packs have pretravel (take up) as well?
I got the gist of it by reading the link I posted. A set screw would work, but you correctly stated the flaw (wiggleitis)
Do aftermarket trigger packs have pretravel (take up) as well?
Fumbler
Member
Aftermarket trigger parts that are designed as replacement trigger parts (with the same design of the Ruger) will have better fit.
This helps the trigger pretravel, but usually doesn't get rid of it as well as the JB Weld trick.
Aftermarket trigger groups such as the KIDD do eliminate pretravel, but those triggers don't have anything in common with the factory trigger (and cost a whole lot).
This helps the trigger pretravel, but usually doesn't get rid of it as well as the JB Weld trick.
Aftermarket trigger groups such as the KIDD do eliminate pretravel, but those triggers don't have anything in common with the factory trigger (and cost a whole lot).
skipm
Member
Check your hammer spring, the notch in the retaining washer should face up. Hopefully this is your problem. Good luck, Skip
Ok I think texfed called it with the JB weld on the sear. I havent had the time to fire test it but it feels like the hammer is hitting harder after I removed the stuff from the sear. Too bad because I really like the no creap trigger.
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