light hammer strike in a 1911

[jman74]

I picked up a very lightly used GI Champion for about $300. The only problem is that the gun doesn't go bang every time I pull the trigger. It's not always striking the primer with enought force to set it off. It will dimple the primer although. I've tried several factory loads and some reloads. They all act about the same.
I called SA and they said I could get the gun fixed under warranty but is there anythng I should try be for mailing the gun off. So far I've tried removing all the oil from the mainspring housing (per instructions of SA customer service), replaced the mainspring (the one that was in the gun looked like someone chopped it down a bit), and replaced both the plunger and end cap pieces that go with the spring. The hammer, strut, sear, etc. all seem to be OK and free from any burrs. None of this has helped. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jay

 

[1911Tuner]

Champ Chump?

Hi jman, and welcome aboard.

If the gun has one of the new ILS systems, it's possible that the firing pin spring is too much for the mainspring to overcome. Other possibilities are:

Short/out of spec firing pin...Weakened, lightened, or worn mainspring...Broken mainspring...Butt-end of firing pin peened or mushroomed so that the hammer stops on the firing pin stop before full strike delivery.
These could apply, even if the gun is without the ILS system.

The ILS mainspring is a shorter spring than standard, and the cap is longer.
You might try a standard firing pin spring in the gun, if it's ILS-equipped.

 

[jman74]

Thanks for the ideas. I just read somewhere else that the firing pin and or FP spring could be the culprit. I'm going to replace both of them. It has the locking system, but I replaced the spring and the cap with standard parts.


Jay

 

[Jim Watson]

Does it have an overtravel stop screw in the trigger?
That can be set too tight and the sear hit the half cock (safety stop) on the way down and sap power from the hammer fall.

 

[jman74]

I'll try that. I replaced the trigger before I even fired the gun (I've large hands and the stock GI triggers are way too short). Thanks. I would have never thought about that.


Jay

 

[1911Tuner]

re:

Good suggestion from Jim. I never use overtravel screws and tend to forget about'em when a question like this comes up.

If you used the standard 23# mainspring, the gorilla-strength firing pin spring and lightweight firing pin are probably the cause of your bug. Ed Brown markets a steel firing pin for the Springfield .45 pistol. It's not standard, and it's not quite 9mm/.38Super spec...rather a proprietary size that you can order from Brownells for about 6 bucks, and the standard firing pin springs are so cheap that a man oughta go ahead and order 2 or 3 just to have spares on hand. While you're at it, order a couple of spare recoil springs. I've switched from my old standby Wolff, and gone over to ISMI. More consistent than they used to be, and those things just keep on and on and on and on.
Not sure if they make one for the Champion's length though. That may be a factory item.

 

[jman74]

I'm going to back the over travel screw off a little and change the FP and FP spring. FUll size 1911s seem to by my thing while this champ is kicking my butt....


Jay

 

[jman74]

I backed the overtravel screw out and I didn't have any failures. The dimple on the primer is still real shallow so I'll try replacing the firing pin and spring next. Thanks for the ideas.

Jay

 

[jman74]

Just wanted to thank everybody for their input. I replaced the firing pin and spring. The gun has been 100% since. Thanks everyone.

Jay

 

[1911Tuner]

Squashed Bug

Ah! Whupped'em ag'in, Josry...

 

[jman74]

Now I need to decide if I'm going to put a beavertail on it or leave it alone. I just fitted an S&A to my mil-spec and it's smooth. Don't know if I want it on a carry gun or not though...