Ruger 1911 safety question

[rdmercer]

I have a Ruger 1911 45 Commander that has an issue with the safety toggle. I carry it most often in a leather holster cocked and locked with leather snap retention. On several occasions upon removing from the holster I have found the safety has switched down to the fire position. I also have two other leather holsters and I get the same result. The Rugers have extended safeties which apparently makes it rather easy to be moved to fire position as the gun is pulled up and out. I also have a Remington Rand, Springfield GI, and a Colt Series 70 MK4 that have shorter safety toggles and always come out of the holster still cocked and locked. Has anyone else noticed this with 1911s with extended safeties? I am thinking about dremeling it back down to original length.

 

[Klint Beastwood]

Yep. It’s a thing. 1911s imo (with experience) are what is consider a professional pistol when in regards to combat. A lot can go wrong if not mindful. You can low pro, retro, slim or extended thumb safety’s and while you might get it to work, there’s always that risk that something on you moves that thumb safety. Even worst is when I carried the M45, or any other manual safety gun I leave the safety off, things on my gear would push the safety up when moving around over a period of time every once in awhile...I got really good a riding the safety on the draw to say the least.

 

[Kano383]

How is the detent on the safety? It has to be positive both on and off, and this is determined by the shape of the safety plate’s corner and small detent notch, as well as plunger spring and plunger shape.

What type of holster are you using? Of course the longer the lever, the easier it is to switch it, but with a quality holster the safety cannot move.

Is it a single or an ambi safety?

 

[rdmercer]

How is the detent on the safety? It has to be positive both on and off, and this is determined by the shape of the safety plate’s corner and small detent notch, as well as plunger spring and plunger shape.

What type of holster are you using? Of course the longer the lever, the easier it is to switch it, but with a quality holster the safety cannot move.

Is it a single or an ambi safety?

Kano383, the detent is just a bit less than the Colt and the GI is very stiff. The Ruger is fairly new in terms of only less than 300 rnds thru it. BlackHawk, Tagua, and a Bianchi shoulder holster all rub against the single safety on left side inside of holster.

 

[Armored farmer]

This is comforting to me.

 

[RecoilRob]

You can sometimes gently deepen the depression where the safety plunger rests on the lever to increase the effort needed to snick it off. Of course you've got to go slowly or you can end up with a lot more effort needed than you intended. I'd think a properly fitting holster shouldn't be contacting the lever in a way that tries to snick it off...so perhaps a different holster is an option.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

I have a Ruger 1911 45 Commander that has an issue with the safety toggle. I carry it most often in a leather holster cocked and locked with leather snap retention.

Your problem is the leather snap -- they are notorious for disengaging the safety.

 

[Shimitup]

I bought the SR1911 Lightweight Commander a couple of years ago, I experienced the same thing, For one the safety felt mushy, for another it was too long for my taste, at least for carry. The I trimmed the safety and gave the detent spring a slight stretch, made a world of difference. I'll post a pic later this evening.

 

[Shimitup]

Here's the photo, frankly don't remember how much I trimmed off the safety, but it was both length wise and width. I've had no issues with finding the safety inadvertently on or off since. That's a Galco underneath, similar to the Combat Master, can't remember the exact model. I also have used it in a Bianchi thumb break with no issues.

 

[DT Guy]

I mold the safety into the sweatshield very deeply, until the safety *can't* come off in the holster.

Lots of custom leather guys, and some Kydex guys, do that also; find one of them if you're carrying condition 1.

Larry

 

[Shimitup]

Armored farmer, you're teasing us with that photo. I want to see the whole thing.

 

[Armored farmer]

View attachment 777459
This is from mark at squared away customs.....the safety notch was accidental, but it worked out perfectly.
Its a very good kydex holster with custom snakeskin color and 'dont tread on me' logo.
Mark took my call to order this custom holster while he was on vacation .
I know there are other holster makers on thr that are also capable of this quality, and custom notch.

 

[Shimitup]

Very nice rig, I was admiring the grips also. I don't recognize the logo on the gun, what is it?

 

[Armored farmer]

It is a Metroarms American Classic. Amigo model(3.5" Officer)
It is a Phillipino made 1911. I bought it at my lgs. Its previous owner had problems with it. I did a little research and ended up buying it and put new recoils spring in it. It has been perfect for me.
I may offer it for sale one day as i am almost all Ruger now.

 

[JTQ]

I mold the safety into the sweatshield very deeply, until the safety *can't* come off in the holster.

Lots of custom leather guys, and some Kydex guys, do that also; find one of them if you're carrying condition 1.

Larry

Don't most holster makers use "blue guns" to mold their holsters? Do most "blue guns" come with the safety in the on or off position? How do they account for the dozens of different thumb safety designs?

 

[ATLDave]

My carry 1911 has an extended safety and does not do this. You may want to check the detent and the plunger spring... you want a good, audible SNAP when you take the safety off.

 

[JTQ]

... You may want to check the detent and the plunger spring... you want a good, audible SNAP when you take the safety off.

I agree. I usually assume these issues are thumb safety issues rather holster issues. However, I understand thumb breaks can be a problem.

 

[DT Guy]

Don't most holster makers use "blue guns" to mold their holsters? Do most "blue guns" come with the safety in the on or off position? How do they account for the dozens of different thumb safety designs?

There are a wide variety of 'blue guns' these days, from a variety of makers. Some include versions with 'safety off' and 'safety on', and many are able to be customized with 'blocking' to represent specific features.



Larry

 

[rdmercer]

I bought the SR1911 Lightweight Commander a couple of years ago, I experienced the same thing, For one the safety felt mushy, for another it was too long for my taste, at least for carry. The I trimmed the safety and gave the detent spring a slight stretch, made a world of difference. I'll post a pic later this evening.

 

[rdmercer]

Shimitup, I trimmed the length of the thumb safety back to original dimensions and have no problem now. It has a solid dent on and off, it still looks great, and I am happy thank you.

 

[Shimitup]

You're quite welcome, I don't mind the shiny safety myself. I just decided to get the holster wear started in a big way I guess. I really like some posters ideas about notching or molding the holster to guarantee engagement too.

 

[Walkalong]

How is the detent on the safety? It has to be positive both on and off, and this is determined by the shape of the safety plate’s corner and small detent notch, as well as plunger spring and plunger shape.

Yep. Should click positively and and off, not mushy, not too easy.

you want a good, audible SNAP when you take the safety off.

Exactly.

This thumb safety started off as an extended one. I cut and shaped it to match the old Colt Commander style, then bead blasted it to match the Kimbers finish.

 

[CDW4ME]

I have two Ruger 1911's one 9mm the other 10mm, on both the thumb safety was too easy to disengage.
Plunger tube spring was weak and slightly but permanently kinked on both.
I replaced the plunger tube spring and slightly dremeled the thumb safety to increase detent.
Both now have a thumb safety with positive disengagement.

 

[DT Guy]

I have two Ruger 1911's one 9mm the other 10mm, on both the thumb safety was too easy to disengage.
Plunger tube spring was weak and slightly but permanently kinked on both.
I replaced the plunger tube spring and slightly dremeled the thumb safety to increase detent.
Both now have a thumb safety with positive disengagement.

The 'kink' is intentional, and is supposed to keep the spring from flinging itself into oblivion when you remove the grip safety, just FYI.

Larry

 

[CDW4ME]

The 'kink' is intentional, and is supposed to keep the spring from flinging itself into oblivion when you remove the grip safety, just FYI.

Larry

I considered it a defect since the spring on my Brown, Baer, Dan Wesson, Colt would at least stick out with the thumb safety removed.
The Wolff replacement spring wasn't kinked either.

I can't/won't tolerate light (less than positive) thumb safety disengagement.

Edit to add: I'm not in complete agreement with Ruger spring selection; my wife's Ruger CMD lightweight 9mm came with a recoil spring that seemed about 10# slide return was sluggish and overall recoil feel was horrid chunk-chunk. I installed a 16# spring (only thing I had handy) and it corrected slide return and felt recoil. After shooting the "improved" pistol with 147 HST +P and Golden Saber 124+P my wife said "maybe we can shoot some hot ammo next time"; I replied, "that was the hot ammo".