Ruger 22/45 Mk III mods

[ford8nr]

Finally had time to install the mods I got at Christmas for my (OK, WIFES ) Ruger MkIII 22/45. I picked up the TandemKross Loaded Chamber indicator filler plate and the Magazine Disconnect replacement bushing. I measured the trigger pull before the mods at 4# 13oz. The LCI filler plate was straight forward and a 5 minute install. This gets rid of the indicator that pushes sideways on the rim of the cartridge. As long as I was pulling the hammer to replace the mag disconnect I pulled the sear and polished both with 800 grit emery to remove machining marks. The springs and assembly of the trigger group wasn't as bad as the inter web made them out to be if you were observant and careful. Reassembled everything and tested function. Trigger now breaks at 3# 3oz and mags eject easily. Breakdown and assembly of the pistol does not require the multi step process of inserting and removing the mag several times anymore. Great products and turns the MkIII into a MUCH better handgun!

 

[tuj]

great! These are great guns when properly modified.

 

[340PD]

Look at a exact edge or Volquartsen extractor. One minute install and much more reliable than the factory. A wide trigger with overtravel stop will also be a nice improvement.

I went nuts and bought the entire 22/45 frame and innards from Volquartsen. I like the feel and balance of the alloy frame much better than Ruger's poly frame. This thing shoots as accurately as my Hammerli 280 and SP20 that I shot years ago in Bullseye competition. I now am debating a sight change.

 

[tuj]

+1 on the VQ extractor. Solved my stove-pipes in a MKII. Now it goes in all my MK-series.

 

[Jlr2267]

I resisted buying a VQ trigger kit for years and then finally got one this year...best mod I've ever made to a firearm.

 

[george burns]

Those are some "Hot looking guns", may I ask what kind of groups you are experiencing offhand at 25 yards? And how far out can you go while still maintaining that kind of accuracy? thanks

 

[tuj]

Off-hand I can usually hold the 9-ring on the b-6 50-yard slow fire target, which is 5.56" in diameter. Shoots much better than that from sandbags.

 

[CZ9shooter]

I just simply removed the LCI and left the hole on mine. Not the prettiest, but way better than that flag sticking out. Still lets me see a cartridge rim if I want to, but just barely.

I would recommend the VQ trigger and sear as your next mod. Their hammer does not seem to be necessary. With these parts, and the Mark ii hammer bushing like you already have, my trigger breaks smoothly at two pounds (unscientifically measured by hanging known weights on trigger). With zero overtravel and just the tiniest bit of pretravel to insure reliable reset.

Adding a reddot makes for all sorts of fun too.


I personally havent experianced any trouble with the stock extractor. I get a misfeed every once in a great while, but I dont think it is related to that part.

 

[1KPerDay]

Good stuff. The VQ sear and trigger are worth it. Mine is about 2.25 lbs and very crisp.

I'll look into the extractor, though mine has been great for 13K rounds.

 

[340PD]

I am now to old to shoot bullseye steady offhand at 25 yd. in competition but when I was doing it on a regular basis I was averaging 92%-93%. I never shot well enough to get to the master level at 95%
The MK series Ruger's set up properly will all shoot better than the shooter if given the chance.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

I use the VQ sear most of the time, but sometimes just stone the factory sear. I skip the VQ trigger. I drill and tap the stock trigger and put in pre and post travel set screws.

 

[Jlr2267]

I just simply removed the LCI and left the hole on mine. Not the prettiest, but way better than that flag sticking out. Still lets me see a cartridge rim if I want to, but just barely.

I would recommend the VQ trigger and sear as your next mod. Their hammer does not seem to be necessary. With these parts, and the Mark ii hammer bushing like you already have, my trigger breaks smoothly at two pounds (unscientifically measured by hanging known weights on trigger). With zero overtravel and just the tiniest bit of pretravel to insure reliable reset.

Adding a reddot makes for all sorts of fun too.


I personally havent experianced any trouble with the stock extractor. I get a misfeed every once in a great while, but I dont think it is related to that part.

This is exactly what I did. I think buying the trigger/sear and bushing separately with shipping was less than $65. The hammer is not needed, at least if you are modding a Mark 3...the VQ bushing for a Mark 2 will work with the Mark hammer...saves you a few $. The whole job takes maybe an hour 1st time, 30 min 2nd time...I highly recommend finding a good video and following step by step the 1st time you do it.

 

[StrutStopper]

+1 on the VQ sear and trigger. I left the LCI, it doesn't bother me much. I know it collects crud, but nothing a good cleaning doesn't take care of. I have no issues with my factory extractor...yet. When/if I do it will be replaced. I did do a slingshot mod too.