Ruger Bisley 44 mag trigger job

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gil moreno

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Hi guys need advice, comments, recommendations from anyone who has had an trigger or action job recently done on a Ruger new blackhawk. I saw the gunblast video and did the "poor man's" trigger job. However, I worry about using only the one spring for too a period of time. I do not want to over stress parts, damage parts or make the gun unreliable. I would appreciate your input. Thanks:)
 
I don't see how the "Poor man's " trigger job would ever stress or otherwise damage anything. There are modifications that can be done to the factory spring to get a lighter pull.

See: http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html

Or you can order a lighter spring from Wolff and get to the same place. None of these will take the place of good trigger work but it's a start.
 
The distance the sear scrapes across the hammer shelf is the "gritty feel" that most incur.
To get a very good trigger on a transfer bar Ruger is do the bending in the article. Also you need to reduce that shelf and polish both the sear and hammer contacts.
 
The poor boy's trigger job isn't going to damage anything. However, I could never in good conscience operate with a sixgun that had one leg of the trigger return dragging across the hammer spring. Springs are cheap, Wolff has them. I put a Wolff kit in all my single actions and their 17lb hammer spring in all my Rugers.

To get a good trigger, some polishing is in order.

To get the best trigger, a competent gunsmith is needed who understands the New Model action. One who can reduce the creep to a minimum while still maintaining proper function. Spend much time with a professionally tuned Ruger and you will never be satisfied with a factory gun again.
 
Doing the "poor boy's trigger job" is only going to lighten the trigger pull (a very little). It will still have all of the creep and grit that Ruger built into it. Doing proper trigger work on Ruger SA pistols requires working down the hammer hooks and polishing the engagment surfaces. The problem with that approach is you usually end up with a great trigger but now the transfer bar will barely rise up enough to cover the firing pin. A lot of smiths will weld up or make a new transfer bar. I did a trigger job on my own Bisley and got a very nice 2 1/2 lb. trigger with no creep at all but the transfer bar is right on the ragged edge of being a little short. It has not failed to fire every time for 15 years so I got lucky.
 
I have shot many....many rounds with one of the legs of my trigger spring hanging off with no ill effects. I eventually used the procedure from the cylindersmith site and bent my trigger spring. It made a big difference and allowed me to run both sides of the spring again.
Getting the gritty feeling out of the trigger was another prospect alltogether. It took awhile and some very.....very careful stone work to smooth the tool marks off of the engagement surfaces.

One other thing, if you attempt to do your own stoning of the engagement surfaces you need to be uber careful about maintaining the angles and not rounding things off.

Most gunsmiths that work on ruger single actions have a jig to hold both the trigger and hammer to ensure the engagement angles are held in very close tolerance and to preclude the rounding off of any of those surfaces. If you try it yourself and botch the job, you may end up with a hammer that will not stay cocked and could possibly need a new hammer and trigger.
 
My NM vaquero has been one leg on since i got here a few years and many thousands of rounds ago. No trouble yet.
 
My 1976 ROA has a nice trigger pull. It's short and smooth. I'd actually be afraid to have it touched.
HOWEVER, it was rough and gritty while cocking. I stripped it and found the front of the hammer, where the trigger drags when cocking, was horribly rough. I stoned it smooth and now it's very smooth when cocking. Didn't touch, and won't touch the engagement surfaces, nor will I have them touched because they are right from the factory.
Now, my .32 H&R Single Six is another matter. I may get it worked on. Or I may replace the trigger spring.
 
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